TekBuDDy

UPDATE!!!!
Ok so im still having problems. Right now im using a 0bd2 to 0bd1 step down. I heard i can use obd1 ls ecu to drive the car but it would run lean til i get it chippd



and i have like 5 plugs in the bay unplugged. ALSO!! the car dont run, i can crank it, it may turn over but idle like pure ****, Crazy missfire and popping from the intake .

2 near the intake and 3 by the dizzy i'll post up pics later

fv8s

you can either use the 2 bolt or 3 bolt style post mount it doesn't matter. just match it up with an engine mount. your harness should be plug and play, but you will have all your VTEC wires (oil pressure, solenoid) unplugged and it may throw a code. as for all the rest of the mounts and the linkage and all that can be reused.

TekBuDDy

hmm^ thanks i hope thats all i need. thanks

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Unplugged wires don't throw codes if the ECU isn't looking for the sensor. The LS ECU doesn't know/care if the VTEC wire is there because it doesn't expect a signal from a VTEC solenoid.

I would use the 2 post bracket under the timing belt cover for simplicity. There are probably aftermarket mounts out there to use a 3 post mount on that bracket....but there are just as many that bolt onto the 2 post bracket.

The stock EM1 mount will bolt into only the 2 post bracket.

fv8s

i wasn't sure if it would throw a code or not. you learn something new everyday, thanks!

94dxcoupe

Both the B16A2 and the B20B blocks come stock with the two bolt post driverside mount. There is no reason to change it at all. As far as check engine lights, the LS ECU won't throw any codes for the VTEC items unplugged. You may end up with a EVAP code after driving a little bit depending on how you transfer over the charcoal canister/ purge solenoid setup between the two engines. Best of luck !

TekBuDDy

Hmmm ok kool about that blot post the one on the b20 is longer than the he b16 when i droppd the motor in theres a gap. And all my other 4 mouns bolt up fine.
But besides that for wiring i should be fine right?

TekBuDDy

bumpppp

Deetz

If your drive side post mount is different, just switch it from your B16 you have now

TekBuDDy

^ ya i wish the one bolt above the crank rounded out. I have to order a new one.

I just want to make sure. My stock wiring harness would be fine with this motor? I should have some plugs loose right?

Deetz

yeah, your stock harness will work fine. Hey what B20 did you buy??

usdm B20B or B20Z

or jdm B20B, what year?

If you got a 99+, you will love that engine, it will make way more power than the B16A

TekBuDDy

its a jdm b20b i dont really kno the yr.

TekBuDDy

Updated at first post!!

Deetz

It's important, they have so many differences......



If you have a 99-01 model, you get better parts.....

- higher compression from pistons
- better cams
- better intake manifold
- knock sensor
- newer

Here is what the higher compression.newer model jdm B20 looks like, notice the intake manifold



Oh, and i would NOT! run a B16 ecu on a B20 engine

find yourself a P75 LS ecu

TekBuDDy

ya i have the p75 ecu its not plugging up.

ya my intake manifold is much higher than that. i believe i have a 97 swap

TekBuDDy

bumpp

TekBuDDy

Bumpp

TekBuDDy

bumppppppppp

HondaPartsHero

Ok from top to bottom:

1. Looks like vtec solenoid and pressure switch, just ignore them. 3rd is the intake air temperature sensor, you are going to have to insert this into your intake piping. The sensor for it on the manifold is round (black round sensor on picture number 3 and won't be used unless you convert the plug over to this style and use it).
2. Vtec solenoid
3. Evap purge solenoid wiring
4. That's the temp gauge sending unit

TekBuDDy

Thank you very much for the info. But those arent needed for me to start it correct?
I just changed the cap rotor plugs and wires. I dont what the prob is. I hope its spark mayb something in the dizzy

TekBuDDy

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