Lol I'm in the middle of building a house for my wife and baby (in addition to trying to get my car to a certain point before I go full on with the rest of the house build), and I've had more than enough of those moments there, too!

Took off my slave cylinder, did the check valve delete, and installed a Techna-Fit braided section of line in place of my original rubber clutch hose. Als replaced a piece of coolant bypass hose with a molded piece.

The new clutch line cleared the CV boot better than the original.

The new piece of hose fits better.


This kink is why I replaced it.

The check valves on the V6 MT has been known to cause odd clutch pedal, and I can attest to it as I never really could figure out the release/grab point: it always seemed to change. Accord/TL owners have performed this mod with repeatable, verifiable success. It gives a definite improvement, and the pedal feels like a clutch pedal should.

Even though I don't have all the fittings for my a/c lines yet, I went ahead and drew up a wiring schematic on my lunch break.



All I really needed was the wire for the A/C clutch and the 2 wires to the ECU, but I'll have this to reference if I ever have problems.

This isn't going to work as the ECU determines when to switch ground to pins A6 and A27 from other modules via the CAN (controller area network). So... I'll have to set up a relay to switch the BLU/RED and BLK/RED in the diagram to ground using the on/off switch in the car's heater control panel, or something...

Got the a/c wiring figured out Sunday afternoon! Now I need to order some fittings and get my condenser fitted to the front side of the radiator support. Oh yeah... and I have to order a new compressor...

Since I'm using the alternator to tension the belt, it looks really close to one of the compressor's ports. I don't know what I'm going to do YET. I'll think of something though. Maybe use an pre-bent end from an OEM style line? What an original idea (sarcasm).

Installed the rear EP3 10.2" rotors and brackets only to find that I didn't pick up any pads! I stuck the old GSR pads back on to drive it out of the shop and under the shed. Ain't no way I'm gonna ride around with those floppy pads! They'd be locked up in a second. Also, got the 1" master cylinder installed and bled (with the help of my sweet wife after we laid the baby to sleep). I like how tht pedal feels!

Next step is to get new pads and anti-rattle hardware and install my braided lines; then check on my seats at the upholstery shop; then fix the a/c.

Picked up new brake pads on my parts run this morning. I know I'll get the pads on this evening, but idk if I'll have time to put the braided lines on.

New ceramics and clips
ss braided lines

Well, I got my 10.2" rear brake conversion done, but I have yet to install my ss lines. Also moved my battery to the trunk so I'll have easier access to the a/c fittings on the firewall. I'm currently trying to figure out the best way to mount the condenser in front of the radiator support and have the front bumper removed. Going to relocate the horn for clearance.

Anybody ever gotten A/C fittings from AP Air? They're a pretty cool company. They're a call to order place, but they have the Denso fittings I need. (I've ordered from them before.)

Looks like a tight fit between the discharge port and the alternator case, so I'll probably have to cut up an OEM hose to get the end with the bend I'll need for that.

I'll post some pics later.

The car is still dirty, but I don't care right now.


Ran through the firewall through a preexistent plug that I turned into a grommet. I've got a junction block on the way to properly connect the yellow wire to the starter wire. Right now it's just a nut, bolt, and tape...
Battery box in the trunk. Why? I needed access to the a/c lines at the evaporator where they come through the firewall.
10.2" rear brakes

A/C pics...

I think this is an ok spot. It has to go here for clearance of the header(?).


This is why the horn has to move.


I think this is a good spot for the horn.


I have that much space between the compressor and the alternator case.


That top hole is the discharge side. I'll get a new compressor after I figure out and make the lines.


I used this to check fitment, but the angles are just wrong.


See? It just won't work for that. The pipe is too big anyways.

Forgot to mention that I'm getting a 300A circuit breaker (should I have gone with a 250A being that I have a 1.6kW starter? Idk, but I think I'll be ok) for the starter wire and will be installing an 80A fuse for the fuse box wire -- both at the battery. I had to run 2 wires from the battery to under the hood because electricity is hormonal and wouldn't let the car start while the starter was spinning.

Here are some pics of where the condenser is mounted and of some other A/C stuff:

The 12”x14” condenser and 12” fan will live here, happily ever after.





Specialty adapter fittings were installed previously to facilitate conversion to O-ring fittings.

The condenser and fan are married (such a cute couple!) and will live comfortably tucked away from the hot exhaust pipe. As long as the fan isn’t influenced by the hotness of the exhaust, this marriage will last.

Thank you for your kind words.

Thank you for this kindness! Which J are you swapping? Where did you read that about the Cervini hood? I want to know more about that!

I want to add something to this that I have found out through research: a K series flywheel and clutch will bolt on to the J series crank and mate to the transmission’s input shaft; but a custom 5/8” spacer would be needed for proper throw out bearing actuation and starter gear engagement; and I think the starter gear would need to be swapped for a gear from a K series. The J series uses a DMF (dual mass flywheel) in tandem with an unsprung clutch disc — that’s why this info can be helpful as that flywheel is pricey for a mere stock unit — and a better flywheel and clutch could possibly be had for the same price.

Ugh... The cranks-but-won’t-start problem is back... Maybe I can solve it at lunch?

What I’m thinking on the cranks-but-won’t-start issue is something akin to this beauty that we worked on:


1974 Corvette Stingray
That car had the same issue, and Dad (a once GM tech) resolved it by an old trick of running a 10ga wire from the terminal on the starter that runs from the solenoid to the starter motor to the fuse box (or something) to help facilitate electron scavenging.

I want to try something like this by using a relay to send juice from that same respective terminal on my starter to my fuse box as long as the key is in the crank position.