Draggin99Si

I installed my air horns directly to the factory horn wire. I removed the OEM Honda horn and swapped to a set of dual Fiamm air horns. This install was done around 3 months ago.

Yesterday, I discovered that the factory 80amp fuse that powers the horn/brake lights was burnt, making my horn and brake lights go out.

Should I step up to a 100 amp fuse or get another 80 amp fuse for a replacement?

SmurfDA

its only 80 amps for a reason, thats like people that put 100w bulbs in 60w fixtures, plain stupidity

ironlung78

First off you don't want to up the amperage on any fuse, thats how you melt wiring!

Run a spst 12v relay (single pole single throw) to the new horn!!!
similar to this one...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=6763
you can find them at radio shack if you need one quick..

really easy to do and requires 4 wires

- power from battery to relay
- relay to ground
- +horn wire to relay
- out put from relay to actual horn..

you can't blow fuses if your only triggering the relay to turn on from the original + horn wire which requires very little power.

jlacoy82

sidesi beat me. Get a relay and fuse the power wire to it. Fuses are there for a reason, you'd be an idiot to put a 100a fuse where an 80a should be, especially if you knew you were blowing them.

SRCivic97

Y() I'm on FiRe!!

SmurfDA

yep, your definetely an 04 member

bossman032

lol.

100amp fuse the alternator is not even 100amps. Put the same stock fuse on the wiring would probably melt your car expoad then your fuse will pop.

LennyJ

I put that exact same dual horn setup on my Si about 6 months ago using a relay. Haven't had a problem since. I have noticed a drop in noise quality though, but what can you expect for 15 bucks from Harbor Freight.

I couldn't take the "beepbeep" , just couldn't feel secure with that.

senpai

The instructions tell you to use a relay (at least mine did, it even came with a relay)

alotawatts

A relay will absorb the load......might save frying your horn (steering wheel) contacts too.

jlacoy82

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bossman032 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol.

100amp fuse the alternator is not even 100amps. Put the same stock fuse on the wiring would probably melt your car expoad then your fuse will pop. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Too bad batteries are capable of 500+ amps. Take a length of 4g wire, run it under the carpet in your car, then connect one end to the + of a small car battery, the other to the -, and let us know how it turns out? Shouldnt be a big deal however because the alternator doesnt even put out 100a, right?

bossman032

well you have to understand the battery will only supply for a couple fo seconds then the voltage will drop.

its not 500amps for 2hours lol.

jlacoy82

I'm just trying to suggest to this guy to keep his car safe. If you dont believe me, if you have ANY type of large gauge wire laying around, take it to your car right now and lay the bare ends of it across both battery terminals, let me know how long it takes for the wire to get warm.

Frozen E

Where the hell did you find an 80 Amp fuse for your horn?? I put an air horn in my car and it popped the fuse too, so I upped it by 5 amps. That was about 3 years ago and it's still working to this day. I don't remember the size (maybe a 20 amp), but it was nowhere NEAR an 80 fuse that was popping. You have some other problems if you're popping an 80 amp fuse.

itr1244

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sidesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

really easy to do and requires 4 wires

- power from battery to relay
- relay to ground
- +horn wire to relay
- out put from relay to actual horn..

you can't blow fuses if your only triggering the relay to turn on from the original + horn wire which requires very little power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i need some more help on this ..
is there any diagram or more specfic details?
i have the relay and i never hooked it up yet.
thanks

HalfAnP

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SRCivic97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Y() I'm on FiRe!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

JESUS man thank you for making me laugh LOL

The whole point of relays is to let a lower current circuit control a higher current one. Stay safe man, use a relay!

Ragecloak

Whoa i cant believe you guys are suggesting this. You should NOT wire the contact side of a relay straight through to the horn. The relay will NOT absorb any load whatsoever on the contact side. It is not an overcurrent device and should not be treated as such. If you dont believe me, close the contacts on a relay and measure across them. 0 ohms. Sure you can control it, but if some how or other the possitive wire gets rubbed bare and comes in contact with a ground, when he hits his horn and the coil closes the contacts, he has short circuit. If you believe a relay is an overcurrent device, run a possitive and ground to the contacts and close it. You now have a short circuit. And obviously that is what a fuse is there to protect against (well, and overload too). By no means should you run anything electrical without a fuse! What you SHOULD do is see what the amperage rating of your horn is, buy wire which EXCEEDS (IMPORTANT) this rating, then by a fuse which MATCHES this rating. Wire it directly to the fuse. If you have an overcurrent situation, you need to diagnose the problem. It could either be that the horn is pulling too much (and i'd say it'd pull more than the stock horn which may in fact be rated at 80), then there's a problem with the horn. If there's a short circuit, then the fuse will pop instantly and you'll need to check your wiring.

HalfAnp: The whole point of a relay is not to let a lower current control a higher current, it's to let a lower voltage control a higher voltage, and since it's 12 volts, a relay isnt necessary. A relay is nothing more than a switch that can be controlled by a voltage.

Alotawatts: a relay on the CONTACT side will absorb no load (see my point above about zero resistance)

93TealSi: you're definitely an 03 member. Pretending like you've gained all the knowledge in the world in the extra year that you've been here since an 04 member and really dont know ****.

THE ONLY TWO COMMON FORMS OF OVERCURRENT PROTECTION ARE CIRCUIT BREAKERS AND THE MANY FORMS OF FUSES. Since your car does not have circuit breakers (lol), then DO NOT WIRE ANYTHING WITHOUT A FUSE.
Yes it may work, but it's dangerous. You could wire anything in your car without a fuse and it will work (hell if your car is running right now, then it will work.) You dont HAVE to have a fuse in order to get something to work, just how long and what are the consequences of not is the question. A fusable link is nothing more than a wire that has been determined to melt (thus breaking a circuit), when a certain amperage is reached.

You people and your follow the leader type logic kills me Especially people like 93TealSi with their hollier than thou attitude.


Modified by Ragecloak at 5:42 AM 3/22/2005

HalfAnP

You sir are absolutely correct. That was a fundamental mistake on my part though believe it or not its what I meant to say. Blame the late hour (or early depending on where you are).

My apologies to the thread starter for any erroneous info.

All in all well put, Listen to this guy!

Ragecloak

Kudos for the fess up More than i could say for most people on this forum. It's rather sad too. I felt afraid that i was goign to be starting a flame war by posting my post, and thus depriving this guy of some electrical saving information. So sad the flamers around here

Dumbquestions

Wow, that was close, i hope he didnt take these guys' advice. n1 rage, but you forgot to call out SRCivic97: you will be on fire eventually if youd ont use a fuse.
Less sarcasm/Leetspeak, more knowledge =