H0nda_Crazy

So I replaced my inner and outer tie rods on my 93 civic dx hatch power steering.

Im a little worried because of the lock washer that goes between the inner tie rod and the pinion. I installed it and got the little arms into the grooves but the manual says to crush the sides of the washer into the tie rod. Well I only crushed 2 of the 4 sides on one tie rod and didn't really crush any of the sides on the other tie rod. (stupidly) After installing them I realized that they should be crushed in so that the assembly doesn't spin out of the pinion when adjusting the toe.

I snugged the tie rods down pretty well but if the ball in the joint doesn't spin that freely during adjustment, the whole tie rod could be rotating out of the pinion. The manual doesn't recommend it but I would've been comfortable using some blue loctite.

So I'm basically looking for some assurance. Has anyone done this before without crushing the washer and been ok?

Jimi Hondrix

Assuming you mean this lock washer: https://honda-tech.com/attachments/h...tly-accord.jpg I did the same damn thing a couple months ago during my first time inner and outer tie rods install. I have lifetime alignment and had alignment done twice since I installed the tie rods but, I'd have to call them to find out if the toe was out of spec on the second alignment. I still have that washer and plan to put it on (driver's side) the next time the rim is off.

H0nda_Crazy

Yes! That's the one!

Are you saying you didn't install it at all causing you to go back for a second alignment?

Jimi Hondrix

I did a second alignment due to replacing the knuckle/bearing assembly with a used one. I figure since it's lifetime alignment I might as well. I imagine the lock washer must serve a purpose or it wouldn't be in there.I do plan to install it. Hopefully, others will reply.

natsuke

The lock washer is to prevent the tie rod as you say for spinning off of the steering rack shaft by itself. when you perform the alignment there wouldn't be excessive tightness in the ball of the inner tie rod while adjusting toe. It should adjust just fine without loosening the inner tie rod. You really should bend them over though. if you're worried about having to get a new inner tie rod boot clamp ive seen alot of vehicles with just tie straps holding on those boots. its just to keep dirt from getting into the seals of the rack.

H0nda_Crazy

Yeah I just used the zip ties the boots came with... Oh yeah I bought boots too lol. Wish I had pics of the old ones for you guys, the smaller neck of the boot had totally ripped off the whole thing and you could see the inner tie rod joint.

I just didn't want to have to remove the zip tie and pull the boot back to crush the washers more. The longest part of the installation for me was trying to get the stupid boot on. It was frustrating.

I don't see how you're supposed to crush all four sides of those washers with the rack on. I'm not gonna pull the whole rack for that little task. I know the manual says to but that's way too much. Next time I'll probably use blue loctite.

I'm also gonna ask the mechanic about it when I take it for an alignment tomorrow.

H0nda_Crazy

After some thought I figured that the lock washers there to keep the rod from spinning out if you need to spin the rod to the left. Like if the ball joint is tighter than the assembly was installed one could be spinning the rod and not know if you're loosening the tie rod out or if the ball joint is actually rotating (which you want).

Because with the washer locked to the ball joint housing as well as the rack/pinion, it would keep the ball joint housing from spinning off. You'd have to shear off the little arms of the washer, which is what's supposed to happen when you remove it.

But I didn't crush the washer to secure it to the rack/pinion so I can only hope that I ball spins easily in the joint for adjustment and doesn't rotate the whole assembly out of the rack.

Am I drawing a good picture?