futurefastguy

lmoa, it took me 2 days to put in my new shocks and springs. i started yesterday afternoon, right after work. everything was going smoothly until i got the right/rear. the bolt that holds the shock to the LCA wouldn't come out for ****. the bolt was stuck really bad the the bushing. i sprayed some wd-40 and still no go. i gave it and healthy push and "PRRAHH" , the bolt head broke off. since it was late, i couldn't go out and pick up a new bushing so i had to wait until today.everything is in now, but i have to do the same thing on my friends hatch, any tips for taking those damn honda bolts off? cuz i really don't wanna spend more time than i have to for something so simple.


Modified by futurefastguy at 5:52 PM 6/6/2005

jdm y0

I did my suspension (springs and shocks) in about an hour? But i did have power tools

blurrrcivic94

sounds like my first attempt to replace my brake shoes.. took me 3 HOURS.. but now that I know how to do it, i could probably swap them in about 20 minutes

Formsim

i usely spray all the bolts with benetrating spar from any auto parts store before i start working on them.

Also when your doing it do short burst don't keep pressure of the bolt while you are trying to lossen it or it will heat up and weaken, makin it snap off like yours did, just MO

TsukubaDreams

Have done my suspension 2 times, first time the left rear bolt head snapped off that holds the shock, took 3 days , a new bolt and LCA and then i just did it again last week and the same bolt on the r/r wouldnt come out worth a damn, cracked 2 sockets tryin it so just gut through the bitch and couldnt get it out with an e-z out so got another LCA and bolt. hate those damn things. cant wait to just replace all of my suspension so i wont ever have to deal with that again. going to use a lot of anti-seize....

Crasian

YEs, alot of antiseize never hurts at all

nocturnaldragon

There's not a whole lot you can do with that, my advice is just torch it out in the beginning if it wont come out, get some performance inserts because there inexpensive and don't need to be pressed in. Use a air chisel to push the old bushing out being careful not to damage the sleeve. Its pretty simple to do it that way if you don't have access to a press like I do.

futurefastguy

yea, i think i have to torch them before i take a crack at em. i don't think my shocks have never been replaced because them bolts look like they haven't been touched since the car rolled off the factory. i also live in new england and the winters here are pretty bad. all that road salt and moisture can't be good for bolts.

patastinky

PB Blaster is your friend! Don't forget to hit up them bolt/nuts w/ some ANTI-SEIZE paste/cream/cheese whatever you wanna call it .

It's in the silver bottle w/ blue/orange lettering!

tominos

an impact wrench would help greatly.

OpTiX619

those bolts are supposed to be torqued not tightened. i think 55-65 ft lbs or something.

MonkeyBoy668

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OpTiX619 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">those bolts are supposed to be torqued not tightened. i think 55-65 ft lbs or something.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My manual says 55Nm/40ft lbs for the rear damper bolt. But that's for my car.

Sorry to say but if you're in the rust belt all you can do is spray the hell out of it with a penetrant (WD40 doesn't works well for me as a penetrant) and plan on breaking the bolt. In other words, have the necessary tools on hand to remove it if it snaps, and have a spare bolt on hand. The internet is your friend when it comes to those bolts, OEM for $2-3.

futurefastguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MonkeyBoy668 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The internet is your friend when it comes to those bolts, OEM for $2-3.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, the bolt i broke costed me 17 bucks and the dealership!

MonkeyBoy668

Yep, I hear your pain - one of my shipments got waylaid by an ice storm last winter so I ponied up at a local dealership. It was around there, I think I paid about $15 plus tax.

I'd planned on the shipment arriving in at the tail end of my teardown but the thing didn't show up for a couple weeks. On the plus side, I now have a couple spares in the parts box.

StillGotIt

if it won't come out the first try, put a blow torch to it. and impact guns work wonders...if you can get your hands on them.

nota-eg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patastinky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PB Blaster is your friend! Don't forget to hit up them bolt/nuts w/ some ANTI-SEIZE paste/cream/cheese whatever you wanna call it .

It's in the silver bottle w/ blue/orange lettering! </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VSMej8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it won't come out the first try, put a blow torch to it. and impact guns work wonders...if you can get your hands on them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What they said.
If you have a chance, PB blaster them a day before you plan on taking them off. Then spray them again before you go at them with an impact.
Make sure the impact is set on a low setting, less chance of snapping the heads off those pecker-headed bolts.

Then put anti-seize on the bolt threads/nuts before you put them back on the car.

Make everything handtight, then torque them to the manufactures recommendations.

futurefastguy

i don't have access to them, just a good old wrenches and sockets