armharm

so i recently crashed my 92 honda prelude si with a h23a1 on it. the engine is in perfect running condition and i am planning to boost it later. i just wanted to see whether or not it would be worth it to fix my car, or if it would be worth it to swap my engine into a civic hatch for insurance purposes and a ******* fast *** car... i know b-series engines are fairly easy to swap in, but i also heard h-series engines are a bit harder. could anyone with an h-series swap please shed some light on what needs to be done, approximately how much it would cost, and whether or not u think its worth it to swap an h23a1 in a hatch. thanks in advance.

poison

you crashed your lude? ahh.

i'd definitely keep the h23 and throw that into a civic for all the reasons you mentioned, and is not a difficult swap at all.

you'll have to have a mount kit such as hcp or hasport. i would not recommend place racing, or (for that matter) hcp, but hcp is a good budgetted mount kit, i guess.

PM me your email address and I'll send ya diagrams i produced so it'll be much easier as for parts list and such. It's originally for H22, but everything is the same except the vtec of course

poison

in brief for others who are wondering the same thing for H into a Civic:

basically is here is a run down..

for cooling:

you will need a dual core radiator. either from any DC integra full size radiator, or you may get a smaller dual core radiator from the 94-97 del Sol VTEC, or 99-00 Civic Si.

for the water hoses:

92 Integra LS upper radiator hose and
94 del Sol VTEC lower radiator hose, OR the 92-95 prelude VTEC lower radiator hose as well.

for fuel delivery:

the fuel rail input is located on the opposite side of the regular civic and the fuel filter is a long way to the input line on the fuel rail.

I have seen where you can make your own fuel line from the fuel filter over to the fuel rail going to Pepboys and getting a fuel hose & hose connectors, cutting your factory fuel line hose, and using the hose connectors to extend the fuel connection over to the prelude fuel rail.

What I have done (and recommend due to safety, mainly), is locate a hose shop in your area and go to them, and have a custom fuel line made using your factory fuel hose ends. The line should be about 23" long (yes it's damn long, but it works wonders ).

I would also recommend upgrading the fuel pump, as the factory civic fuel pump leans out sometimes, but you may also run on the stock fuel pump in the mean time.

for drivetrain:

you may get custom driveshaftshop axles using the prelude intermediate shaft (which is what I use). I believe level one runs about $340 shipped.

you may also use a 90 accord intermediate shaft with 90-93 integra axle combo. this drive train option is not amongst the strongest, but works nonetheless. I have seen h22 civics with this and run lots of power with out breaking anything.

as for alternator belt if you choose to remove the a/c since they are driven on the same belt, you will need to get a 37k6 belt. this means the belt is 37 inches and has 6 teeth to run off of the crank pulley. You may also get a 35 inch or even 38 inch. You just need to simply tension the belt using the alternator tensioner.

for wiring, that is a whole seperate issue. and this is what HT search is used for

You may also contact me or other H22 hybriders on the forum for more help.

These are just some of the issues many people are 'unclear' about.

laters!

armharm

wow thanks man... could u give me a run down of how much all those parts would cost approximately.. remember i have a lude with everything working so i can take parts off that.. oh yea and dont count labor, me and my friends might do it...

armharm

oh yea.. and on a side note.... how hard is it to find EK civic's under 3 grand?

civicrtype

Good Luck thats probably impossible unless u buy a crashed or salvaged EK. EG's go for that price range.

2000blackgsr

i don't know about where you live, but i'm having trouble finding an eg for under $3k

poison

you best do it yourself

here's a rough estimate:

dual core radiator $150 used (BTW I forgot, if you choose to use a dual core radiator from a del Sol or Si you will need a slim fan)

slim fan $200 I believe
axles DSS level 1 - $300
mount kit (hasport) $500

that's bout it.

armharm

cool thanks for the replies guys.. now here's another question.. do u guys think its worth it to do the swap? or would it be cheaper for me to just get a b-series engine and bolt it on?


[Modified by armharm, 11:34 PM 2/23/2003]

poison

yes. do the h23. it'd be worth it. especially boosted h23

that's like an LS turbo except V8 size pistons

JDMH22HATCH

iTrader: (6)

Definitely do the swap. And Poison did a great job going over the basics (like always cause Poison really know his ****), but as for the radiator, I highly recommend going with a C&R radiator. I had the del sol dual core and switched to the C&R. Call C&R and ask for Rob Cordona. He's a great guy and very nice to deal with. I got mine shipped with the Spal front mount push fan for $460 shipped to my door. Although it seems a little more pricey, I highly recommend it. And I also recommend the Hasport mounts as well. Even though you have to you have to remove the factory mount place, the mounts are great. I have extremely minimal vibration, and the motor sits perfect with zero clearance issues. Good luck with the swap and sorry to hear about the lude.

armharm

thanks again for the replies guys... another question: would a turbo kit for an H-series engine even fit in a hatch? is it physically possible to boost it?

JDMH22HATCH

iTrader: (6)

Oh yeah. Call Revhard. They can sell you a kit with the piping for your swap. That's my next project hehe. An H23 boosted hatch will be sweet and you'll really enjoy it.

junglerunna

Very good info greatly appreciated, I will add all of this to my notes. Thanks. But depending on where you get your Hapsort mounts for an ek, they are closer to $600. Again depending on where you get them from.