Gump

iTrader: (1)

I was doing suspension work on the newly acquired Beater that we bought from a buddy, and when I come to take off the rear upper control arm I hear the nut that supposed to be tack welded to the car fall off, and I pull off a long *** bolt that's obviously not suppose to be there. My Buddy didn't even know that it was like this since he only had the car for 6 months. Now my question is, how can I fix this half *** work the right way?

Pic of hole.


Pic of the long *** bolt and the bolt that was in the other hole.





Modified by Gump at 10:46 AM 3/6/2005

Luserkid

Now thats one of the weirdest ******* things i have ever seen.

I didnt even know the nut was tacked, i thought it was fully on there that it can never come off, guess i was wrong.

Only thing that comes to mind that i could think of is get a good welder and cut a small hole. Then cut another hole the same size (make it a square so its easier) But with this piece have a hole in it with a nut welded GOOD on there. And then weld that piece back up and hope its good. I would seriously tow this to the professionals.

Gump

iTrader: (1)

Just took a pic from under the car to see if I can reach it, look like I can, don't know for sure, I gotta see tomorrow.

OptionMan

２００５年２月２５日夜

やれやれあれが困るなんですね。プロに頼まるのは一番だと思います。普通ならそのねじは普通のボルトみたい ようはずです。

どうやら頑張って。

Clayton

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2005 February 25th night does does that is troubled, don't you think? is. Asking/depending roundly as for you think in the professional that it is first. If normal that screw in order normal volt/bolt for us to like to see, is expectation. Persevering somehow. </TD></TR></TABLE>

huh?

drunknbass

looks like someone stripped it and just put the nut on and welded it. id just have soneone drill the hole out since it looks fubar and get a new nut with oem thread and have itwelded back into the chassis

igo4bmx

the upper control arm doesn't have any tack welded nuts on it

ice11honda

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the upper control arm doesn't have any tack welded nuts on it</TD></TR></TABLE>
listen to this guy, he is right. Those bolts should not be tacked on there.

R Thizzel

yea hes right those bolts arent supposed to be welded on. i took those off and put washers in btw the uca and the bolt holes. ghetto camber kit


Modified by R Thizzel at 1:38 AM 3/7/2005

Gump

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the upper control arm doesn't have any tack welded nuts on it</TD></TR></TABLE>Well whatevers has the thread is what fell off, I just figured it's a nut that was tack welded on, how else would it be stuck on there?

igo4bmx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gump &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well whatevers has the thread is what fell off, I just figured it's a nut that was tack welded on, how else would it be stuck on there?</TD></TR></TABLE>

based on the pic, it looks like the right hole was was stripped out, then the old owner put in a long *** bolt thinking it would hold together....
then the long *** bolt, under stress, rocked back and forth, causing the hole to become larger.

I suggest getting a slightly larger tap, and tapping in there or trying a helicoil method type insert if possible

jibber86

can you reach behind the wheel well? put a bolt/washer going the opposite way and use a nut on the outside. then you gotta figure out how to hold the bolt so it doesnt twist while you tighten the nut on the outside.

jibber86

have you resolved the problem?

sleepingEg8

Luserkid had the best reply so far. Have a welder cut a square hole out around the stripped hole. Then fabricate a square out of sheet metal the same size as the hole. Then drill hole and find a nut the same thread pitch as the bolt. Then weld nut to backside of square plate. then weld into square hole in the body of the car. Then paint so it will not rust. Done deal...Good luck

Irishweird00

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepingEg8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Luserkid had the best reply so far. Have a welder cut a square hole out around the stripped hole. Then fabricate a square out of sheet metal the same size as the hole. Then drill hole and find a nut the same thread pitch as the bolt. Then weld nut to backside of square plate. then weld into square hole in the body of the car. Then paint so it will not rust. Done deal...Good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is pretty much your only option. There is no way you can get at the inside of the wheel well because it's hollow for one thing, and even from inside the car you can't get at it. I had this problem once. Have to be very careful with those bolts, they strip easily and once they do, the nut inside strips as well... and then your screwed.

Built B16A

ive done this.. but on a CRX... your LUCKY you got the bolt out.


now my solution. i figured.. maybe ide cut a square section out, and weld a new plate in, with the nut welded on the back... nah... thought about cutting a hole in the truck and holding a nut behind, and well.. nah...

my answer.

i totally forgot we had these really cool speciallized tools, we call them "Nut serts". its basicly a internally threaded rivet. the outer sleave has grips so it doesn't spin on you, and you flare the inner end to the inside of your hole, and basicly you have a nut behind a wall.

worked bitchin! like i said, a really speciallized tool, not sure exactly where you can find them, but at my job, we have alot of **** like that, and we get them for a supplier.

i can take a pic of the tool, and nut if you'de like.

Gump

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Built B16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive done this.. but on a CRX... your LUCKY you got the bolt out.


now my solution. i figured.. maybe ide cut a square section out, and weld a new plate in, with the nut welded on the back... nah... thought about cutting a hole in the truck and holding a nut behind, and well.. nah...

my answer.

i totally forgot we had these really cool speciallized tools, we call them "Nut serts". its basicly a internally threaded rivet. the outer sleave has grips so it doesn't spin on you, and you flare the inner end to the inside of your hole, and basicly you have a nut behind a wall.

worked bitchin! like i said, a really speciallized tool, not sure exactly where you can find them, but at my job, we have alot of **** like that, and we get them for a supplier.

i can take a pic of the tool, and nut if you'de like. </TD></TR></TABLE>Yes, please take a pic.

It's already been fixed, the previous owner drilled another hole in the frame so that he can stick a longer bolt that goes all the way through it, it works, but I just want to see other ways of fixing it.

Built B16A

im going to work today for a few hours.. i'll take a pic.

so if your really long bolt goes throught the frame, it has a nut on the other side too... or is the frame threaded? sounds like a shitty fix.

if you look at the integrety of my "nut sert" it isnt' that strong, but ide put maybe 60 FT # to it.

i to this day, haven't had a problem with alignement or vibration.

Built B16A

as promiced.

they're called NUT SERTS... like i said our supplier stockes them for my line of work. they come in all sizes... american, and metric, from 8MM - 19MM. 3/8" - 1/2".

like i said, they're installed like rivets.. i think they're self explanitory.







now that i look at them again, the threads are pretty beeffy.. after 3 years, i haven't had a problem. and they're a better idea than a shitty tack weld honda did...







All done.

awdriscol4

That is the coolest thing I have seen!!!! Where can you get these again? Any ideas?? I want to buy a whole set...would be soooo useful in some many areas....

nojoke

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=WDVW

awdriscol4

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nojoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=WDVW</TD></TR></TABLE>

EKhatch

If you don't want to buy an entire kit you can buy them seperately at a hardware store. Some places call them "blind nut inserts" instead of "nut serts" so ask for both if they don't understand.

Paul1985

ive got this exact problem right now
ive tryed quiet a few things without success.
ive had enough of this problem. Its just getting me furious!

Ive decided im going to pay a fitter and turner from my work to come around and cut the back of the chassis rail out, tack weld 2 new nuts on there then weld the rail back together.

What a fucked up idea to put weak *** welded nuts inside the chassis rail.