etnies

Hey guys just wondering what you're thoughts are on using hondabond rather than permatex on a stock engine overhaul. Thanks

Former User

I prefer HondaBond, but Permatex works.

etnies

Ok thanks man

94EG8

Hondabond is way nicer. Much less prone to leaking and it's very easy to get it off when you pull something apart.

etnies

Ok see that helps alot becuase I really didn't know what kinda of differences there were in the two. Thank you!

92ehatch

Honda bond is to sliced bread

ugly56

Hondabond is the best stuff on the market.

TomCat39

It really is dependent on which permatex product you are looking at.

Permatex "The Right Stuff" grey is Hondabond but cheaper.

Permatex Ultragrey on the other hand is standard RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanization) and is no longer utilized by car manufacturers. From my understanding, they all have moved over to anaerobic sealers when it comes to the engine.

The difference between "The Right Stuff"/Hondabond and RTV is the regular RTV isn't anaerobic while Hondabond/The Right Stuff is.

Boils down to, the anaerobic stuff doesn't dry out and has a much better success rate for not leaking compared to RTV.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Non-hardening sealers are the best thing for engine assembly. I've pulled apart motors that used Hondabond when they were built 10 years ago, and motors that used "alternate" brands. In the end, the Hondabond was the only one that still had give to it. Alternates will always start to harden. The couple extra bucks for the "name brand" is well worth it.

TomCat39

This almost sounds like any anaerobic sealer other than Hondabond specifically is no good which just isn't true. The alternate brands you speak of I am willing to bet were standard RTV and not anaerobic.

The key is making sure it's an anaerobic sealer with the same specifications. More than just Honda can make products to specific specification. Honda just likes to charge 200% more for the exact same thing. I am doubtful Honda has exclusive rights to the anaerobic sealer that is known as Hondabond. If they did, I don't think there would be two versions of "The Right Stuff", one for domestics and one for imports. They would have just stuck with the one color.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

***EDIT, SORRY.

TomCat39

I suspect this is directed at information I provided as it's the only expanded amount of information provided. All others are just saying good on Hondabond.

If you can educate me with some references to where I am mistaken, I would be greatly appreciative. I am only relaying what my research has provided me. That doesn't mean I've hit some false sources along the way and if that is the case, I would be grateful for updated and more accurate sources.

TomCat39

Understood, and thank you for all the effort, past and present.

lostforawhile

depends on what number permatex you use, "permatex" is just a brand name. I'm curious who actually makes Hondabond.

TomCat39

From what I can find Hondabond is a 3M product.

I did find some interesting info concerning Hondabond HT, Ultraflange II and Permatex The Right Stuff for Imports here:

Hondabond vs. Ultraflange sealants; know the difference

It seems Honda used to point at Ultraflange II (The Right Stuff is the equivalent) but later started phasing out Ultraflange (true anaerobic sealer) for Hondabond HT.

I still stand by using The Right Stuff for Imports as an economical long lasting, easy clean up highly successful sealant for the engine.

I suspect the 10 year old engines NotARacist has ripped open used Ultraflange II not Hondabond as that was the method in the day and has since changed to Hondabond.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

That's entirely possible. I just knew the shop it was rebuilt at, and knew that shop wasn't the type of place to even know what HondaBond was. Little one bay shop attached to the guy's house, out in the country. Don't get me wrong, he does great work, he just gives exactly zero ***** about anything with less than 8 cylinders, and the only liquid sealants he ever had around the shop was RTV black (what your average, uninitiated Joe would pick up), and copper spray.

Something else that an engine builder who specializes in imports gave me when he honed my engine, and said works well, is this stuff called Detroit Diesel sealant. Never used it, because I already had the tube of HondaBond, but he swore by it for every Honda, Nissan, and Toyota engine he ever built.

Basically, Honda calls for non-hardening sealant. If it's non-hardening, it doesn't matter if it's HondaBond, RTV, Detroit Diesel, or Mary's breast milk, it'll work.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Anyone know if there's a difference between Ultraflange in the tube & Ultraflange II in the can? I thought it was just the dispenser. Ultraflange tubes used to be cheaper than Hondabond HT, but not any more.

I've been using my same tube of Ultaflange for 4 or 5 years now. I really only liked it better than Hondabond HT for the simple reason that the contents last so much longer (better sealing). Probably because the cap & tube don't crack with use.

I'm currently rebuilding a CRX A6 head and I would like to use the best sealant on the cam caps to last another 25 years. Which one would you guys recommended. The vintage manuals didn't have Hondabond to recommend back then. Just sealant.

94EG8

Interesting... Detroits were notorious for leaking, to the point where they were nicknamed green leakers and driptroit diesels.

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

Detroit Diesel Sealer

Almost strong enough for a Diesel
PH balance for a Honda.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Can anybody comment on the "can" style Ultraflange 2? Can you control the flow speed of the goo? How does it last on the shelf? Can you keep the tip from getting clogged? Is it any good for small jobs like the corners of a valvecover gasket?

It just drives me nuts that the tubes dry out. The can idea "sounds" like a possible alternative. Thanks

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Good to know. My 3oz tube of Ultraflange is half dried inside. The top half seems to be protecting the bottom half well though. I keep a long nail down in the tube, plus plastic wrap over that. Then I screw on the tip to hopefully seal in the flavor.

Sounds like that's as good as it gets.

TomCat39

I was only able to get a caulk gun style tube of The Right Stuff. I put a 16 penny nail in the end of it after sealing my transmission. Pulled it out a year later and it still flowed without issue.