scrappydoops

Hi Guys,

Im new here and Ive been struggling for over a week now trying to have this issue resolved with the mechanics who quite frankly I've lost confidence in.

They did an engine swap for me with the same type of engine (d15b non-vtech) as mine had too many issues to work on at the machine shop.

Soon after the swap, the timing was off by 1 slot but that was corrected. The car revs and idles smooth - but a little too high. When in gear and moving off, the engine bogs down sounding like it wants to shut off. However this only feels so when moving off or stepping on the pedal after letting off completely.

What ive also noticed is that when the engine is cold, it starts with RPM at about 1100 and stays there. When its hot and started, RPM is about 400-500 then after about 15 secs, RPM jumps back to 1100. While its just started and at 400-500 RPM, if i put it in brake in between that 15 secs and press on the pedal, it doesnt bog out. However, after the 15 secs with the RPM going to 1100, if I put it in gear and try to move it bogs down and i have to ease off the pedal for it to come back up.

The car wasnt behaving like this.

Plugs are new
Engine serviced so changed the gas filter, engine and transmission oil plus air filter

They were also saying the Fuel Pressure Regulator may be bad as when they use a pliers to squeeze the return hose, if i stepped on the gas it didnt bog down. I changed the FPR and still same issue

Can anyone help me to figure this one out.
Engine: d15b2, ECU OBD2 and Car 2000 Honda Civic Ek3

Thanks for any advice given

Former User

Add specific engine, ECU, and car.

scrappydoops

I updated the thread with that detail:

Engine: d15b2, ECU OBD2 and Car 2000 Honda Civic Ek3

Former User

What's the ECU code - e.g., P2E, P2P, etc.

The D15B2 is an OBD0 engine in the U.S.

HondaPartsHero

Is the check engine light on? If so post codes. It's very possible some of your sensor plugs are swapped around (i.e., TPS MAP)

jim chuck

Are you certain that the valve timing and ignition timing are set accurately?

scrappydoops

Hi Guys. Thanks for the replies so far. The only code that is showing is for the lower o2 sensor which has never been connected since i got the car. I did some more fooling around and clamped the hose after the Fuel Pressure Regulator and I can now apply pressure to the gas while in gear and it doesnt bog down. Since i changed the regulator already does this mean the fuel pump is the issue? Also the car just doesnt seem to be throttling smoothly as before..Im wondering if the timing can also cause this even though it revs up all the way? Seems a bit sluggish at times with a but of low sputtering sound when its driving.

scrappydoops

We checked if the TPS and MAP sensor were switched and even switched them around and tested. Once they were switched, the car didnt throttle and it shut off as soon as it started so we reverted the change.

Aslo my wires doesnt seem to be coded exactly like the other ones ive seen in this for this engine online anywhere. However we used the volt meter to confirm the wires and tested the TPS with the throttle open at different stages. It seems to change according to the specs up to 5v

Mac2118

iTrader: (1)

have you checked the IACV, FITV, compression test, and checked for spark in each cyl (and the color of spark)?

scrappydoops

Hi sorry I took so long to reply. So I finally resolved this issue and have the car running like new.

I detected that the tps wasn't working as expected. When the tps is connected and the car warms up, pressing the gas while in gear and the car bogs down but would idle fine. However the idle was low to start when warm but high when cold. Also the air screw was all the way down and idle under normal conditions was about 1200 rpm. I just decided to buy a throttle body with map and tps and iacv. Once that was done the car idles great, accelerate fine and all. I still have to do a pressure test for my fuel pump to ensure that's fine. Thanks for the help guys