help! brake pad flush on rotor
#1
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help! brake pad flush on rotor
one problem onto another...
i found out maybe why my brakes feel so shitty. when i was trying to replace my wheel studs i looked at my brake pads and they are freakin flush with the rotors. like straight up against em. you turn it and you feel /hear it grinding. how did i not notice this before? thats passenger side. i checked driver side and its fine.
its nothing too bad right? like if i just go somewhere to get them to put new pads on that will fix it...right? lol.
i found out maybe why my brakes feel so shitty. when i was trying to replace my wheel studs i looked at my brake pads and they are freakin flush with the rotors. like straight up against em. you turn it and you feel /hear it grinding. how did i not notice this before? thats passenger side. i checked driver side and its fine.
its nothing too bad right? like if i just go somewhere to get them to put new pads on that will fix it...right? lol.
#2
Re: help! brake pad flush on rotor (nomoreavril)
There is very little clearance between the pads and rotor. Some 'slight' drag or scrathing noise may be normal. The point is, the wheel must turn freely. Grinding sound is not good. And no, new pads won't solve the problem and the problem could be bad.
Maybe the caliper is not centering. The caliper slide pins may need cleaning and relubricating. Or, you've got rust and crud on the pad retainers and the pads can't 'float' away from the rotor like they should. If the pads have enough meat on them, just disassemble them and clean everything up real well. If they are worn thin, clean everything anyway and install new pads.
BTW, use a torque wrench when remounting wheels and set it at 80lb/ft. There is no reason to snap wheel studs unless the nuts have never been removed in several years and you've got major rust on the studs.
Maybe the caliper is not centering. The caliper slide pins may need cleaning and relubricating. Or, you've got rust and crud on the pad retainers and the pads can't 'float' away from the rotor like they should. If the pads have enough meat on them, just disassemble them and clean everything up real well. If they are worn thin, clean everything anyway and install new pads.
BTW, use a torque wrench when remounting wheels and set it at 80lb/ft. There is no reason to snap wheel studs unless the nuts have never been removed in several years and you've got major rust on the studs.
#3
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oh it wasnt me that messed up the studs..they are all stripped and worn town and some of them are broken..i just bought this car for 500 bucks
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Re: (nomoreavril)
if you hear griding it means you need to change your pads (hour work tops) that grinding sound is your worn pads scraping against rotor. if you dont change it fast you're gonna have to change the rotors also which doesn't cost much and is also easy.
#6
Re: help! brake pad flush on rotor (nomoreavril)
If the metal backing plate is one the rotor itself it'd be best to replace the rotors at the same time. And you cant just replace one side, brakes should be done in axle pairs so the wear can be even so that means two new rotors and a set of new pads for boths sides on the front.
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