cheehee

I have a '99 B18C1 in my '00 DX hatchback and have been trying to solve my idle issue so I can pass emissions. When I start the car cold, it idles at 2k. Once the car is warmed up and I turn it off then back on, it idles at 1k. The other weird problem is that while I am rolling (in gear or out of gear) my car revs up another 1500 rpm. Once the car stops, the idle drops back down.

I've checked for vaccuum leaks, cleaned the IACV, throttle cable tension ok, butterfly closes, no air in cooling system.

I've read 2 similar posts after searching. One solution was to use a new wiring harness, which I don't want to do just yet. The other was that he had two MAP wires crossed, which for me is not likely since I didn't alter them at all.

Does anyone have suggestions? By the way, I'm running a p72 using an OBD2b->OBD2a conversion harness from jkodb.com. Would having the MAP and TPS plugs switched cause a problem like this? Does it have something to do with my VSS sensor?

littleredcivic

Your car should idle around 2k when its cold, its trying to warm up. If your car is an OBD2, some do raise the idle when you are rolling because it is expecting you to put it back into gear...so when you do, the revs don't have to go from idle to whatever. I have seen this on some stock integras. You will not pass smog in CA if you have a 99 engine in a 2000 car. the EPA standard is that you have to have the same year or newer to pass the changeover standard.

amckee

Unplug the IAC and make sure your base idle is set to between 500 and 600 RPM. Plug it back in and clear your code. Idle should return to 750 and stabilize. This would not have anything to do with emissions though.

cheehee

The weird thing is that it's only when I warm up the engine, shut it off, then restart it before it idles at 1k. The idle won't go down when I start it cold even after it has warmed up, it just stays at 2k.

Luckily, I don't have to pass CA emissions but one condition here is that the car idles under 1100rpm. It's also a rolling test so my idle climbing while rolling may cause a problem, thats why I'm trying to fix it. And it's not a couple hundred rpm, I'm talking 1500 rpm.

cheehee

anyone with other suggestions?

ek-to-tha-max

hey jeff its the guy you wanted to buy the cluster and climate control from. you should have me take a look at it sometime, i might be able to fix it. but its pretty much normal to idle a little higher when you first start it. also theres a screw to adjust on your throttle body near your MAP, sounds like you need to make it a little tighter, give it a try. try turning your car on, and check for air sucking in or out anywhere on your manifold or even your motor. lmk how it goes

i have a 99-00 si ecu you may use, maybe it might fix it

VRD^sam

wanna pass the emission's test....swap your old motor back in...

amckee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unplug the IAC and make sure your base idle is set to between 500 and 600 RPM. Plug it back in and clear your code. Idle should return to 750 and stabilize. This would not have anything to do with emissions though. </TD></TR></TABLE>FITV is a valve that has a donut with a thimble in the middle to regulate airflow during warmup. Sometimes the donut gets loose and must be screwed back down to keep the air from bleeding by. Check the resistance values of the ECT sensor cold and then hot to see if it is in range.

cheehee

I thought the OBD2 GSR's don't have the FITV, correct me if I'm wrong. What should the resistance values of the ECT sensor be hot and cold? Thanks for your help.

amckee

I don't know if they have it or not. I don't have the manual for that car so maybe someone else will give you the resistance values.

cheehee

I'm bringing this back from the dead just in case someone else has similar problems. It's discouraging when I find the exact same problem in a thread but the OP never posts the solution.

Anyway, my high idle and rolling idle problem has been resolved. After all the suggestions of vac leaks, iacv cleaning, tps, map, etc it turns out that my pcv valve was the culprit. Previously I removed the pcv, cleaned it and heard the ticking sound but it still didn't function 100% correctly, although it should have based on others suggestions.

So, a $4 part was at the root of my problem. Not only did it fix my idle issues but it also helped my engine run waaaay smoother. Cold startups are normal, no fluctuating idle, no more oil consumption, etc. Now I'm waiting to see if it will improve my gas mpg, which I'm pretty sure it will.

So bottom line, don't bother cleaning the pcv, just buy a new one for $4.

jclamor87

here you go dude, hope this helps you out

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1853742