hondadude_rudo

got a jdm gsr in my eg hb its a 98 engine. i have a skunk pro series manifold on it, and a 421 header. the ecu is a chiped and base tuned unit from phearable.net. the probem is, is its hard to start when cold, and bogs down under load when cold. once the engine is at operating temp, it runs strong, but stumbles a bit when pulling hills at part throttle, and at low rpm. i have checked and replaced the tps and the iacv. (it also idle surges 200-300 rpm at times also). it doesnt throw a check engine light either. there are no vaccume leaks at all. i have asked everyone that i know, and no knows ne thing. does ne body on here have any ideas what could be wrong? please help me!!

2wheelhunter

my jdm b16a did that too... i just let it warm up nicely before driving it in the cold.. engines werent exactly designed to drive in freezing winter temperatures.. just take your time and let it warm up.. thats all i did

hondadude_rudo

still dont solve drivability issues, and lack of power under 4500rpm evem when warmed up. the car will chirp 1-3 but bogs unless i launch it at 5 grand on 185 width tires on 14s.

hondadude_rudo

ne body else got a clue. i dont want to ignore the problem, i want to fix it!

slowcivic2k

Does it misfire? And did you have to hack the distributor? Check the BLK/YEL wire if it is spliced for corrosion.

Could also be a poor MAP sensor signal. I'd need more information. Does the tach bounce around at all?

hondadude_rudo

gots an obd1 gsr dizzy, not (hacked) no tach jump at all, other a bit of idle surge from time to time. it has no noticable missfire at idle or driving, it just seems to stumble at times, and bogs down when under load until at nearly full operating temp. my car has a firewall mounted map, and the last engine ran magnificent with the same map sensor. the other day, when i started it, it threw a check engine light, but when i went to check it, it didnt read through the light. it was a bit weird to say the least. when i restarted the car, the light was gone, and hasent threw one since. its just weird. i think it has pms lol

Mikes2000civicsi

its bogging for 1 reason...since it has a skunk2 manifold its the same as the regular gsr manifolds runners always being open...which is a loss of 10-12 tq low-mid range....have a nice day

hondadude_rudo

no the cold engine bog is insane it bogs down so bad that it barely accelerates going up the hill leaving my driveway. the more gas i give it, the more it feels like something is holding it back.

oh and the skunk mani is closer to an itr than a gsr with the butterflies open just so ya know. it feels like a b16 has more low end power than i got right now. oh n i have a b16 trans on it also.

jdm-ek-si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikes2000civicsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its bogging for 1 reason...since it has a skunk2 manifold its the same as the regular gsr manifolds runners always being open...which is a loss of 10-12 tq low-mid range....have a nice day </TD></TR></TABLE>
explain more cause i dont get it

hondadude_rudo

hellow, ne body on here that knows how to fix hondas and not just throw one together?

0HAMOTORSPORTS

sounds like an o2 sensor to me. Also, it could possibly be an incorrect bin on the chip- unlikely as phearable is known to be very good at what they do, but still a possiblity

Do you have any access to a wideband? If so watch your a/f when it has the stumbling problems to see if it is leaning out or getting way to much fuel

stevebarrett

check your spark plugs, i had the same problem going up hills and it turned out the electrodes on my plugs were toasted.

---SPEED-DEMON---

The ECU chip you got, what set of cams was it for. You would not need an ECU alone to get gains from a Manifold etc. A standard reset will help and will be enough. That rough idle is a sign of an ECU tuned for a much more aggressive cam. Normally idle is staggared like that, to keep crank momentum as the aggressive cams at low idle can risk an engine stall etc.

Switch to your standard ECU, then I suggest you get a Hondata ECU as you can tune up internally, this way you keep all your extras like knock sensor and many different VTEC points!

hondadude_rudo

its not the ecu. put it on my friends xar and it screamed, then put his stock ecu in mine and mine got slower. we even tried his distributor, and nothing different. i have irridium plugs in the motor and they only have about 5k on them. when i pulled them, the were indicating a lean condition. does ne body know if there is a difference between a single cam 02 and a gsr 02 because i got one off of mu friend since the one on the engine had been damaged, and he told me that it was for a 93 dx coupe, and that he was certain that they were the same. the ecu is set up for the stock cams. i compression checked it and am getting 200 psi on all cylinders, i also checked the cam timming and it is dead on. ignition timing is set to 16 degrees.