itsJDMyo

i've had this fuel cut-off switch thing for about 7 months now...and within the 7 months, the switch that i used kept on breaking...by that, i mean the spring inside the switch would break or something, so i can't even switch it to on or off...this is the switch that broke on me 2 times...


http://www.radioshack.com/prod...earch

what other switches would you guys recommend to use?

CivHizzle

i got my switch at kragen, they had a few decent ones that could be used for this purpose... sorry cant take a picture of it, it's in a hard to reach place

Relic1

ok, first off which what wire are you braking to create your fuel shut off? the main fuel pump wire?
the switch is rated for 25A at 12VDC but that's max surge current.
your OEM fuel pump pulls about half that, which may be right up the switch capability. I'd do a 30amp relay with a smaller switch.

Also a 25amp toggle switch with an actual arm tends to have a longer life than those little round switches like that one.

BrianDelSol

If you wanna be a balla get ignitedperformance stuff, it pwns hard.

itsJDMyo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, first off which what wire are you braking to create your fuel shut off? the main fuel pump wire? </TD></TR></TABLE>

my main fuel pump wire, under the rear seats

itsJDMyo

AzntaggeR

i'm using a 25A rocker switch from radio shack.

Relic1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itsJDMyo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

my main fuel pump wire, under the rear seats</TD></TR></TABLE>
why not use the cars existing wiring to help you?
cut/switch the ground for the main relay, that way the car can not turn on the fuel pump. that ground pulls maybe at most 1/2 amp.
you can use a smaller switch, and hide it much better.

if you insist on switching the main wire, pick up radio shack #275-712 the lighted rocker switch, it's rated for 30amps @ 12volts and I know first hand that it holds up to some serious loads without crapping out. just don't hook up the ground if you don't want it to light up when it's on.

DavidR

even easier. on the main relay there is a green/yellow wire. This wire comes from the ECU and tells the main relay to turn the fuel pump on. Just put a 2-5A fuse on this (small switch), and hide it. BTW, the ground for the main relay will pull 15A, as that is what the fuse on the other end is rated at. Electrons flow from - to + , so all power comes from the ground and flow to the positive.

Relic1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DavidR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">even easier. on the main relay there is a green/yellow wire. This wire comes from the ECU and tells the main relay to turn the fuel pump on. Just put a 2-5A fuse on this (small switch), and hide it. BTW, the ground for the main relay will pull 15A, as that is what the fuse on the other end is rated at. Electrons flow from - to + , so all power comes from the ground and flow to the positive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

there is only one true ground at the main relay and it supplies ground for the coil of the first relay.
A coil of a relay draws ~500mA that's all the power that will be pulled through the black wire.
The reason the fuse at the other end (as you put it) is 15amp is that the same wire powers the fuel pump when the other relay in the main relay pack is active.

the grn/yel wire would interrupt the ground signal for the coil of the second relay in the main relay box, effectively cutting power to the fuel pump.
The black wire would interrupt the coil to the first relay shutting down the injectors and several other sensors on the engine.
Same effect, no way to start the car but they can crank your battery dead.

You can also interrupt the clutch switch, which will cause the ECU to not even try to start the car. But it can be push started.

Deemeetree

I have the same switch. No problems yet.

seppuku

You might want to consider a 30 amp relay hooked up to your alarm(if you have one)...so if you alarm is armed your fuel pump won't work. (Down side is that you can't use remote-start with your alarm).

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seppuku &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You might want to consider a 30 amp relay hooked up to your alarm(if you have one)...so if you alarm is armed your fuel pump won't work. (Down side is that you can't use remote-start with your alarm).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Anyone tried this yet? Does it have any negative affects on the alarm system?

DavidR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Anyone tried this yet? Does it have any negative affects on the alarm system?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If they turn the alarm off, it disables the kill switch. Most alarms have ignition kill already built in so that they block the ignigion switch signal from the ECU. I would say do it seperate from the alarm.

SiYouLater

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the same switch. No problems yet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DavidR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If they turn the alarm off, it disables the kill switch. Most alarms have ignition kill already built in so that they block the ignigion switch signal from the ECU. I would say do it seperate from the alarm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what I was kinda thinking. My alarm already has a kill switch and a couple other features. Thanks

88hondahatch

i have one that came in my car when i got it, its incorperated in with a keyless entry system, and when its armed (any time the ignition is off and the doors are locked) it cuts the fuel pump