Engine Swap - Need Help Pretty Bad
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Engine Swap - Need Help Pretty Bad
Ok, for starters I am pretty new to the Honda world but anything else is cake. I have a friend he has a 98 civic ex 4 dr with a 1.6 vtec and abs. Well he had, he blow up his motor, so he bought a parts car from his cuz for $50(it was a rollover). The parts car is a 96 civic dx 4 dr with the 1.6 non-vtec($50 for a very good running motor with 70k miles. another vetec motor was going to cost him like 500 from a junkyard and 800 for a jdm import) I took everything off the parts car (wiring harness and all cables, even pos. batt.) and engine, evap, trans, ecu and ect. took everything off his car wireing engine trans evap, ecu, ect. put it all in his and i get nothing it just makes a click. His dad said somthing about someone told him you might need some kind of code for the computer to reset(i thought that was just for oem stereos). and he also has this anti theft thing from the dealer he bought it from that you punch in a code in this wireless remote and it beeps in the car and when you get the right code it gives you a good sound and bad sound for bad code. the old code does not work anymore, so im guessing it has something to do with it but dont know yet. tomorrow I'm going to check the solenoid wire on the starter for power. my friend said that if it were push started it would turn on with out the code so we might try that also.
P.S. Yes we are going from vtech to non-vtech only because he got the motor for 50, it runs great, and times are rought they wanted 1500 for a swap/engine replacement I charged him 100 and he got his motor for 50, big price diff for him and a little extra cash for me. Hes been with out his car a few months and he
needs it pretty bad so I'm just trying to help.
Anyways just looking for some help hope someone can help.
P.S. Yes we are going from vtech to non-vtech only because he got the motor for 50, it runs great, and times are rought they wanted 1500 for a swap/engine replacement I charged him 100 and he got his motor for 50, big price diff for him and a little extra cash for me. Hes been with out his car a few months and he
needs it pretty bad so I'm just trying to help.
Anyways just looking for some help hope someone can help.
#3
Re: (AtxFourFive)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AtxFourFive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive done plenty of swaps on these year cars never needed a code one thing i would check for though is make sure all the grounds are connected and tight</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Re: (turbodegsi)
Yeah, it's a ground...dead giveaway from the click. Check your tranny ground, and check your negative battery cable. If you transferred alot of extra stuff over that really wasn't necessary then you opened up more possibility for error.
Alot of people miss or don't tighten the ground on the thermostat housing also.
Alot of people miss or don't tighten the ground on the thermostat housing also.
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I only remember 2 grounds. The trans the the pas fram rail and the radiator support on drivers side to power steering pump bracket. I know its missing an o2 sensor wire, the second one because of his header and no cat but it sould turn out with out it anyways right???
#6
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and he also has this anti theft thing from the dealer he bought it from that you punch in a code in this wireless remote and it beeps in the car and when you get the right code it gives you a good sound and bad sound for bad code. the old code does not work anymore, so im guessing it has something to do with it but dont know yet.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pull that POS "alarm". Follow the wire from the keypad to the ignition harness and remove the system. Reconnect the wires that have been cut to install the "code thing".
If that unit has lost it's programming, there's probably no way to get it back, and since those devices are obsolete, it's better to remove it altogether.
Pull that POS "alarm". Follow the wire from the keypad to the ignition harness and remove the system. Reconnect the wires that have been cut to install the "code thing".
If that unit has lost it's programming, there's probably no way to get it back, and since those devices are obsolete, it's better to remove it altogether.
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0k He gave his batt. a full charge over night and it turned right on.(we had jumper cables on it at first but the lights didnt dim when we tried to start it, oh well). now i think his clutch might be shot, the dummy told me it was good and tight on the car because he drove it to make sure the motor was still good,lol so i need to check that today. anyways appriciate the help I will keep you guys posted.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
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