Someone requested me post this up on honda-tech so here it is:
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and I do not take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
To replace the ugly EG interior with a nicer DC2 interior
*Note* There are a couple of different ways to wire and modify the dash to fit, this is the way i went about it. I've taken into consideration you know how to remove the dash and heater unit in your car and have them out already.
I also had to remove heaps of pics off here as there is a limit to the amount you can post up, so if you need a specific pic just ask. It sucks, but there's nothing i can do about it.
- Complete DC2 dash with the dash harness still connected to it
- DC2 steering wheel coverings
- DC2 kick panels
- DC2 Heater core
- DC2 Dash Mounts
- DC2 Underdash Fusebox (not completely neccessary, but you will be able to use all the dash functions if you use the DC2 fusebox)
- DC2 Centre console & Armrest (and foam insert underneath for better fitment)
- DC2 Centre console and armrest brackets (armrest bracket is optional)
- DC2 Black Carpet (Option)
- Various Tools
- Vinyl Paint/Dye
I have broke this down into sections.
-Notebook and pen
*Note* There are differences between OBD1 and OBD2 supposedly, i used all OBD1 wiring and OBD1 fusebox for this setup (94-97 DC2 = OBD1) (My EG main harness = OBD1). Just something you should be aware of although i dont see why you wouldn't be able to make either work. Just use all the same gear off the same DC2 and you should be able to make it work by pinning the EG plugs as I describe in this DIY.
1. I used a DC2 fusebox, DC2 dash harness and the EG main harness. There are 3 plugs that connect the dash harness to the fusebox (green), the main harness (grey) and one for the rear harness (blue).
This is my completed harness:
2. The green plug went right in, but the blue and grey plugs were different in size. Now, i knew the whole assembly worked without issues with the EG dash in... So i figured if i could trace the whole DC2 and EG dash harness using my multimeter and repin the DC2 dash harness wires into the correct locations on the EG plugs. I did this by drawing each and every plug, adding the pin location and wire colours and tracing each wire with my multimeter.
To do this with a multimeter (you can pick up a cheap one like mine from supercheap for about $16) all you do is switch the multimeter to ohms on the lowest setting (unless it is an autorange multimeter).
3. Remove both the EG and DC2 dash harness' from the dash so you can easily access everything, this also allows you to take it all inside if you wanna sit in the lounge and do this. Just be sure to take note/photos of where everything goes. I labelled what each plug was for. There are plugs for:
-cluster x 2
-glove box light (DC2)
I think thats all of them..
4. Place one side of the multimeter in pin 1 on either grey/blue/green plug. Taking note of the colour of this pin, find where else in the harness is a pin of the same colour and touch that pin, do you get a reading on the multimeter? If yes, you have found where pin 1 on whichever plug you have started with goes too. Write all your findings down and do this with every pin on all 3 plugs on both harness'. From there you will be able to work-out where you need to re-pin all the DC2 dash harness pins into the EG dash harness plugs. Use this Cluster pin-out diagram to help you also: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/94-97-98-01-integra-cluster-into-92-95-96-00-civic-wiring-diagrams-1053318/
This link also explains how to de-pin a plug, i use a sewing needle for it. If you need some more pics/help on this let me know.
Andy's (litterbox) guide mentions that only the blue plug needs to be swapped.. Everything seemed to be different on my setup so i went about it myself and worked out where everything goes, why dont you do this also?? This way you know it will be right and you can sit on the couch inside testing each wire with the multimeter anyway. You may learn something. If not, you can find the info on the link at the bottom of this DIY.
5. The only soldering you will need to do will be to splice the yel/blk wire from the grey plug to the yel wire on the green plug. Your turn signals/hazards wont work until you hook this one up.
Dash mounts, Steering Column Support and Dash Modifications:
-4" angle grinder with 1mm cutting disc
-cordless drill with a couple of drill bits
-some thin sheet metal
-some bolts & nuts with a small head on them (i got from bunnings)
1. Drivers Side (dash mount):
In order for the drivers side to fit you need to remove the fusebox mount. What i did was grind it off. I then drilled out the spot welds on the EG dash mount. I installed the EG fusebox mount onto the DC2 dash mount by drilling 2 holes and using some nuts/bolts. You also need to grind out a notch to clear the steering support beam.
2. Both Sides (dash mounts):
Now you need cut the sheet metal to size, drill 2 x holes to bolt it to on the dash mount and also drill a hole for it to bolt to the original spot on the body. Pics show it better than i can explain:
3a. I didn't take pics of this, but if you lift the dash up into place you will see that where the cluster goes there is a heap of plastic in the way, mark where to cut it out, pull the dash back out and cut it out. Do not cut into anything that will be visible. I used a dremel for the cutting.
3b. Drill a hole behind the clock for where the dash bolt goes. I didnt even use this mounting point, it is secure without it. Pic thanks to bananaman (if you want me to pull it down let me know):
4. Steering column support:
I mounted everything up and the cluster only slightly didnt fit. So marked up where the support was in the way, removed the dash, pulled the support beam out and then trimmed the beam (and part of the support that isnt removable from the car). Then put it all back in. A little more needed to be trimmed than in this pic, but you get the idea.
1. My center console didnt look like it lined up right to begin with, but after putting in the carpet and the neccessary brackets it is actually lined up correctly as you can see in these pics. I havent placed the foam piece under the carpet but it fits up well without it. If you want it to be a more snug fitment then you can place it under there.
Heres the brackets you need for perfect centre console and arm rest alignment. I mounted the arm rest one but if you want to install the screws on the side you will need to make new holes on the arm rest for them. I haven't bothered as everything is solid without them screwed in anyway, if i have issues, i will make new holes and screw them in place:
As you can see if fits up perfectly with the brackets:
If running a stripped interior it will seem as if you have about a 1-2cm gap, but thats how it sits:
1. Peel back the vinyl on the door skin being very careful not to tear or cut the vinyl.
2. Install the trim back on the door and mark up roughly where to cut.
3. I used a dremel to cut the trim and had the door on and off probably about 10 times until i got it perfect (i cut quiet alot more than in this pic). I took my time, making sure not to mess it up. Also be careful not to slip and cut the door vinyl:
4. You now need to get some sort of contact adhesive. I still need to purchase some and glue the vinyl back down. There are a couple of areas where it won't be 100% perfect fitment due to the fact that the vinyl is moulded to the door trim before you cut it. You will be able to glue it down so it's barely noticeable though.
5. Door closed:
Matching Grey trims, door handles, handbrake handle to the dash:
1. For this part, i got all the pieces i needed to paint together and cleaned them up with a scotch brite and some alcohol based cleaner. I let them dry properly and applied the vinyl paint according to the can's instructions. I have black door trims already, so i wont be needing to do those.