Be sure and view my previous thread... here
Well, I finally got off my *** and did it. It took me a while, but it wasn't all that hard.
1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive ratchets
10mm & 12mm sockets (deep and regular)
universal joint (may not be needed)
screwdrivers (phillips and flathead)
drill and bits
8mm x 1.25 tap
D16Y8 intake manifold (manual or auto, but I used an auto)
D16Z6 intake and throttle body gaskets
D16Y8 injector seals
12" of 5/32" (4mm) ID vacuum tubing
Y8 fuel rail (although I used a Z6 rail)
Ok, so let's get started. Here's what mine looked like when I started.
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal (duh)
2. Disconnect the intake
3. Disconnect the throttle cable
4. Drain the coolant by removing the plug at the base of the radiator, and be sure to remove the radiator cap to make it go a little faster
5. Remove the throttle body, there's 2 bolts and two nuts, all 12mm. Also, remove the two coolant lines just below the TB, where the manifold meets the head. Remove the IACV held on by two 12mm bolts and the other sensor (not sure what it's called) held by two phillips screws, and unclip the sensor on the bottom of the manifold.
6. Remove the injector clips from the injectors. Use a small flathead screwdriver, but be careful not to lose the clips. Remove the two 10mm nuts to release the injector harness. Place a rag under the fuel filter and then remove the hose that goes to the fuel rail, but first be sure to release fuel pressure by removing the gas cap. Then remove the three 10mm nuts holding the fuel rail down, the vacuum line running from the fpr to the manifold, and remove the rail and injectors. Be careful not to touch the tips of the injectors.
7. Remove the two 12mm bolts from the brace on the underside if the intake manifold. If you're lucky, you can do this without getting under the car, but it's a tight fit.
8. Remove the seven 12mm nuts holding the manifold to the cylinder head. I had to get a universal joint to get to the middle nut on the underside.
9. Slide the manifold off of the studs and lift it up enough to remove the hose connected to the oil cooler, then totally remove the manifold.
10. Now let's swap stuff over from the Z6 mani to the Y8 mani. When looking at the two manifold, you'll notice that there are several things different about them. For one, the TB studs are in opposite locations. This shouldn't matter, although I switched them around anyway.
11. Go ahead and mount the injectors and fuel rail on the Y8 manifold. It would be easiest to use a Y8 fuel rail rather than a Z6 rail cuz they bolt up differently. Unfortunately, I didn't have a Y8 rail, so I just drilled hole in the Z6 rail so I could use it. It'd also be in you best interest to use new injector seals cuz the Y8 and Z6 seals are different thicknesses, but I didn't and it hasn't leaked at all.
(I forgot to take a pic... doh!)
12. Remove the check valve that was connected to the oil cooler from the Z6 manifold. Reconnect the two hoses and the check valve, and then attach it back to the oil cooler. Also, go ahead and put your new manifold gasket on. Make sure you removed ALL of the old gasket first, as it may not seal properly if you don't.
13. Go ahead an remove the manifold brace from the block entirely, as it won't work with the Y8 mani. Mount the Y8 manifold on the head, using the seven 12mm nuts to hold it in place. Run the hose with the check valve throught hole between the 2nd and 3rd runners, and connect it to one of the two larger nipples on the plenum. The other one will be blocked off.
14. Connect the fpr to the rail. You will need to cut a longer piece of vacuum tubing to run from the fpr to the nipple near the throttle body. I think I used about 10-12".
15. Trim the brake booster line and attach it to the large nipple on the back of the plenum. Also, reattach the small vacuum line to the nipple on the bottom rear of the manifold. There's nowhere to attach this sensor/valve/whatever to the manifold, so either zip tie it off somewhere, or just do like I did and use the hose bracket that bolts to the IACV to hold it in place. Don't worry about the connector that's left over. We'll take care of that later.
16. Bolt up the throttle body and IACV.
17. Reconnect the coolant lines. You can use just one of the hoses instead of the two hoses with the hard line in between.
18. Reconnect the fuel line. Make sure you didn't lose either of the little metal washers.
19. Now attach the throttle cable bracket. As you can see here, the Z6 and Y8 brackets are different. The angle of the Y8 bracket is more appropriate, but the cable is a little short, so you have to mount it using only one of the holes.
20. Now for the left over sensor from the back of the Z6 manifold. It's supposed to be mounted in the manifold (obviously), but I didn't feel like dirlling and tapping more holes in the manifold, so I decided to just mount it in the intake pipe. I just drilled three quick holes. No tapping was necessary.
21. In order to mount it in the intake pipe, you must also extend the connector about 18-24". I wrapped the two wires in electrical tape just to make it a little cleaner looking.
There ya go
22. Reconnect your intake, refill your coolant, being sure to use the air bleed bolt to remove all air bubbles. Now fire it up and see how she runs!
Well, there ya go. Some people say that you can't tell a difference on the butt dyno, but I felt like it was definitely stronger in the 5-7k rpm range. :thumbs_up Plus, it looks pretty sweet with the fat black manifold.
Whew! I don't think I've ever written a post this long before.
Modified by brentmc79 at 7:19 AM 10/11/2004