DIY B16 Clutch???
12-20-2007, 05:49 AM
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DIY B16 Clutch???
hey just wandering if theres a DIY for replacing the clutch in my jdm EG (B16) if someone could make one tht'd be awesome or find one somewhere on here, im not that great with this site yet.
12-20-2007, 06:18 AM
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Re: DIY B16 Clutch??? (steinbacheg6)
Look under the FAQ and or search and it somthing should pop up. If not, Team Integra has a write up.
Clutch replacement is very straight foward. I did my 1st clutch by just taking things apart and labeling all the bolts to make it alot easier. Just make sure to set aside a weekend.
Clutch replacement is very straight foward. I did my 1st clutch by just taking things apart and labeling all the bolts to make it alot easier. Just make sure to set aside a weekend.
12-20-2007, 07:07 AM
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Re: DIY B16 Clutch??? (steinbacheg6)
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
Removal
1. Disconnect negative and positive battery cables. Remove battery base and air cleaner and tube assembly.
Disconnect starter and transaxle ground cables. Remove engine harness clamp. Disconnect speedometer
sensor connector. Disconnect back-up light switch.
2. Remove clutch pipe bracket and clutch release cylinder. Drain transaxle fluid. Remove starter. Remove
engine and right wheelwell splash shields. Remove header pipe. Separate lower control arms from ball
joints. Remove right radius rod. Using 2 large screwdrivers, pry both drive shaft inner CV joints out of
transaxle. Protect drive shaft ends.
3. Remove header pipe bracket. Remove shift and extension rods. Remove splash guard and front stopper
bracket. Install hoist at proper places on engine, and lift engine slightly to unload engine mounts.
4. Place a jack under transaxle, and slightly raise jack to take weight off transaxle mounts. Remove front
transaxle mount. Remove rear transaxle mount bracket. Remove side transaxle mount. Remove transaxle
housing mount bolts. Pull transaxle away from engine, and remove transaxle.
Installation
Before installation, use NEW circlips on inboard side of drive axle shafts. Use NEW self-locking nuts on front
end of radius rod and header pipe bracket. Use NEW through bolt on firewall side transaxle mount. To install
transaxle, reverse removal procedure.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Battery Base Mounting Bolts 16 (22)
Flywheel Housing-To-Engine Bolts 47 (65)
Flywheel-To-Crankshaft Bolt 89 (120)
Front Wheel Lug Nuts 81 (110)
Intake Manifold Bracket Bolts 16 (22)
Intermediate Shaft Support Bolt 28 (39)
Master Cylinder Mounting Nuts 14 (19)
Pedal Adjuster Lock Nut "C" 13 (18)
Pressure Plate-To-Flywheel Bolts 18 (25)
Rear Mount-To-Transmission Bolt 47 (65)
Release Cylinder-To-Housing 16 (22)
Speed Sensor Mounting Bolts 14 (19)
Starter Mounting Bolts 33 (45)
INCH Lbs. (N.m)
Pedal Adjuster Lock Nut "A" 89 (10)
Pedal Adjuster Lock Nut "B" 89 (10)
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
Removal
1. Disconnect negative and positive battery cables. Remove battery base and air cleaner and tube assembly.
Disconnect starter and transaxle ground cables. Remove engine harness clamp. Disconnect speedometer
sensor connector. Disconnect back-up light switch.
2. Remove clutch pipe bracket and clutch release cylinder. Drain transaxle fluid. Remove starter. Remove
engine and right wheelwell splash shields. Remove header pipe. Separate lower control arms from ball
joints. Remove right radius rod. Using 2 large screwdrivers, pry both drive shaft inner CV joints out of
transaxle. Protect drive shaft ends.
3. Remove header pipe bracket. Remove shift and extension rods. Remove splash guard and front stopper
bracket. Install hoist at proper places on engine, and lift engine slightly to unload engine mounts.
4. Place a jack under transaxle, and slightly raise jack to take weight off transaxle mounts. Remove front
transaxle mount. Remove rear transaxle mount bracket. Remove side transaxle mount. Remove transaxle
housing mount bolts. Pull transaxle away from engine, and remove transaxle.
Installation
Before installation, use NEW circlips on inboard side of drive axle shafts. Use NEW self-locking nuts on front
end of radius rod and header pipe bracket. Use NEW through bolt on firewall side transaxle mount. To install
transaxle, reverse removal procedure.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Battery Base Mounting Bolts 16 (22)
Flywheel Housing-To-Engine Bolts 47 (65)
Flywheel-To-Crankshaft Bolt 89 (120)
Front Wheel Lug Nuts 81 (110)
Intake Manifold Bracket Bolts 16 (22)
Intermediate Shaft Support Bolt 28 (39)
Master Cylinder Mounting Nuts 14 (19)
Pedal Adjuster Lock Nut "C" 13 (18)
Pressure Plate-To-Flywheel Bolts 18 (25)
Rear Mount-To-Transmission Bolt 47 (65)
Release Cylinder-To-Housing 16 (22)
Speed Sensor Mounting Bolts 14 (19)
Starter Mounting Bolts 33 (45)
INCH Lbs. (N.m)
Pedal Adjuster Lock Nut "A" 89 (10)
Pedal Adjuster Lock Nut "B" 89 (10)
12-20-2007, 07:15 AM
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http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=957 
all b series are pretty similar. i used this when i replaced my clutch on my 99 si last weekend.
all b series are pretty similar. i used this when i replaced my clutch on my 99 si last weekend.
12-20-2007, 07:54 AM
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Re: (thisisntjared)
that is a very thourough DIY. thank you, im still debating whether i wanna tackle this on my own... i do have all winter in a heated garage... i tend to mess things up tho.. we'll see. this will definately help alot thank you.. and thanks to the guy that typed everyting out!
12-20-2007, 07:55 AM
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Re: (steinbacheg6)
Hayes/haynes
Both make good manuals for clutch swapping and engine tear down.
I replaced my clutch with a hayes, it's not as nice as a haynes but i didn't encounter any problems.
Both make good manuals for clutch swapping and engine tear down.
I replaced my clutch with a hayes, it's not as nice as a haynes but i didn't encounter any problems.
12-20-2007, 08:05 AM
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Re: (steinbacheg6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steinbacheg6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that is a very thourough DIY. thank you, im still debating whether i wanna tackle this on my own... i do have all winter in a heated garage... i tend to mess things up tho.. we'll see. this will definately help alot thank you.. and thanks to the guy that typed everyting out!</TD></TR></TABLE>if you have the time you will be ok for the first attempt. you should definitely have a manual. there are a lot of areas during a clutch swap where it really really helps to have a friend that knows what they are doing, air tools, and patience.
i recommend getting together at least 2 of the 3. guess which 2 i had
in the end i am glad i did it. paying a mechanic would have stopped me from spending my money on celebrating a job well done and buying christmas presents.
i recommend getting together at least 2 of the 3. guess which 2 i had
in the end i am glad i did it. paying a mechanic would have stopped me from spending my money on celebrating a job well done and buying christmas presents.
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