Blacknight117

iTrader: (1)

Last thing I promise. The only time that I will need a diode is when I wanna connect a relay to the GWA? I won`t need one since I already have the tilt sensor connected to it? I only ask again cause I hate them lol

Axatax

GWA (Orange): If you don't have any kill relays, you don't need *any* diodes on the GWA. If you add any kill relays, you need to diode isolate each each accessory connected to the orange wire (GWA) on the main harness. This one is critical if you're using starter or full pump kills.

Instant Trigger (Blue): You need to diode isolate the trunk trigger if you use one (and you should , otherwise, your trunk light (and cluster indicator) will turn on when your doors are open, hood is open (if you use a hood pin), or another sensor is activated. Some people consider this a feature (they get a warning light now when the hood is open, etc.) and won't cause any damage. Matter of preference. I would isolate this, as my hood is seemingly in the air as much as my car is on the road...

Blacknight117

iTrader: (1)

Yup, all makes so much more sense now. I actually learned something tonite, awesome lol. I am though going to bookmark the thread, just incase I need to go back and reference in the future. Again, really appreciate the help. Sorry to have kept you up, depending on where you live.

Blacknight117

iTrader: (1)

Well, I have a bit a situation...

I tried installed the motion sensor like we discussed but, it doesn`t work. I have everything wired the way it should be. Red on the sensor wire to the 12v constant on the main harness, the black on the sensor to the GWA, and the green and blue on the sensor is plugged in to the brain. Armed the car, and it doesn`t light up. And now I don`t think my tilt sensor works either. Red>Red, Blue>instant trigger on the main harness, and Orange>GWA...and yes, I made sure it`s plugged in...wth?

Axatax

The sensor needs to be adjusted after installation. This is a fairly lengthy procedure.

The lights indicate which zone is breached. If the sensor is not adjusted, there will be no feedback.

The tilt sensor does not respond instantaneously to motion. It needs either 10 seconds (default) or 2 minutes (alternate) depending if the white wire loop is in place. How are you testing it?

508D adjustment:

http://www.google.com/cse?cx=partner...d%20adjustment

Blacknight117

iTrader: (1)

Since it`s raining, I really can`t do any extensive testing. All I did was, connect everything, closed the door, and armed the alarm. Waited for about two minutes, and still there was no lights turning on or any feedback. I even sat in the car and armed it, same thing..

And I tried the tilt sensor as well. I put it on a plastic piece behind the center a console under the dash. Again, I sat in the car, armed it and waited for about 30 seconds. Tilted the sensor and nothing...

Axatax

1 - Turn both ***** on the 508D fully clockwise (max. sensitivity). This should get you blinkenlights and activation immediately.

2 - The sensor needs to be moved *after* the alarm is armed: Arm alarm, move sensor, wait 10 seconds.

Blacknight117

iTrader: (1)

The ***** I keep turning and turning, but nothing. I disconnected it from the wire and looked at the buttons. They look like they are not even connected to the main board in the sensor. Is it possible that I got a defective sensor?

Axatax

Let's check first to make sure the tilt and motion are actually getting power.

When you have a chance:

1 - Unplug motion sensor and tilt sensor.

2 - Arm alarm, then check for 12V between the red and orange on the tilt sensor connector, and 12V between red and black on the motion sensor connector.

3 - If there is no power, ensure you are sourcing +12V from the correct red wire on the main harness (there is two red wires). The proper one has a fuse near the brain.

4 - Arm alarm, then check for continuity between a ground point on the vehicle (bolt near parking braking or door strike) and the orange and black wires on the tile and motion sensors, respectively.

Blacknight117

iTrader: (1)

Motion sensor failed tests. Did nt recieve power from constant 12v source. I used the wire that connects my stereo directly to my battery. Sending the unit back.

The tilt sensor, I`m still lost...here`s a picture of how I have it wired.



I have it connceted to a cable that runs from my stereo to my battery and it still does not trip the alarm...let me know what you think.

Axatax

Please check this (this is critical): Are you able to measure 12V at the end of the tilt sensor plug when the unit is armed (between red and orange)?

Those 3M taps you are using may not be nicking the insulation fully on the tilt/motion sensor cables. Those taps are for 18AWG while the wires on both sensors are very thin diameter. You may need to strip the ends of the sensor cables and bundle them up a few times before crimping down with the scotch locks.

Blacknight117

iTrader: (1)

Ok, now I`m completely dunmfounded...

(Both tests using the sensor plug)
Tested tilt sensor when disarmed, 12.81v from constant 12v from battery and gound to chasis.

Tested tilt sensor when armed. 12.81v from constant 12v and lead to gwa

Tested tilt sensor by jacking up the car way passed the 1 degree threshold and the alarm did not sound. And I did make sure the sensor was plugged in before jacking.

Axatax

Arm the alarm, and short the blue leads from each sensor to ground. Does this set off the alarm?

Blacknight117

iTrader: (1)

Having the sensor unplugged sets off the alarm.

Axatax

What zone does the remote report when the alarm activates?

If the sensor is plugged in, it will not detect tilt, but your alarm won't automatically be set off? Is this correct?

The sensor sets the alarm off by internally grounding the blue (instant trigger -).

If the sensor is not connected, something else is causing the alarm to activate. Please describe the alarm setup in some more detail.

Blacknight117

iTrader: (1)

I`ll check the first part, but yes to the second

Blacknight117

iTrader: (1)

And it`s Zone 1...

Axatax

What else besides those two sensors are using the instant trigger (blue)?

Is your trunk latch connected to this?

When the alarm is activating, are your doors closed?

Blacknight117

iTrader: (1)

I having nothing else on the system other than a back up battery and the audio sensor which it plugged into the port where I would put the motion sensor if it had worked...

And the audio sensor I`m assuming reports to zone 4 because the led flashes 4 times once I force the audio sensor to make the alarm go off.

And the doors are closed. They lock when I arm it...

Blacknight117

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking, what if I connected the instant trigger from the sensor to the (-) door trigger on the 'brain' harness?

slyderflyby

Axatax, I was hoping you can help me as well. I have a Python 533 (5303P) alarm installed using a Express Kit DBALL module with RF Loop. As of now I only have the shock sensor that came with the alarm. I wanted to add a dual zone motion sensor (508D) but the installer would not do it. He said that they create too many false alarms and he found it's best to not have them. HOWEVER, I personally want one after having my last vehicle broken into and since he won't do it I want to do it myself. I would rather have some false alarms than have a repeat of before. From the research I have done on-line, it does not seem that the 5303P has a second MUX input and I assume that the one that it does have is being used by the shock sensor. I would like to order the 508D and install it myself but I don't have a lot of experience in this. From reading on-line it seems that it would be easy enough IF I knew exactly what wires went where. The diodes and the "brain side" terminology confuses me a little. I'm going to get under the dash and find the brain and EK module so I can see where all the wires are but I'm confused on exactly what to cut and splice. Would you be willing to offer any advice or pics if you have them? It sounds like you really know your stuff. Thanks so much in advance!

slyderflyby

Blacknight 117, if you have any advice...I'll take it as well!!!!

slyderflyby

Just a couple clarifications/additions I thought I would add after reading over thread again. I have factory remote start that was preserved using the XK DBALL and they also put in the aftermarket remote start to utilize the two way remote the 5303P comes with. They said they did not install the starter kill so I'm hoping that means I don't need any diodes? Thanks again for any help you can provide.