user1qaz2wsx

99 Civic EX D16Y8 has been using coolant and pressurizing the cooling system. I pulled the head tonight and found this.

There appears to be a lip around the right side of the sleeve #3 cylinder(on top, not inside). I can't feel it with my fingernail very well but it seems to be there alright. I have a brand new set of ARP studs and an OEM headgasket from the dealership. I haven't put the head on the surface block to check for warpage yet, but should I run it with the deck like this? Do I need to yank the entire engine and have the deck surfaced?

I believe the problem stems from the headbolts being reused too many times. I've done new gaskets on both my Civic and my CR-V and both are using coolant within a year. I also used cheap gaskets from Oreilly's which probably didn't help.

The car has absolutely no performance parts. 253K miles, uses almost no oil and still gets 36mpg. :-)

TomCat39

It looks to me like several gouges in the surface around the piston sleeve and then again on the outer block?

Looks to me like you nicked the block a lot with a razor blade trying to get the gasket material off.

With the nicks and marks in the surface like that, I think sending it in to a machine shop for resurfacing is a must.

I've been looking at getting plastic razor blade type scrapers when the time comes that I need to clean up the block and head. I don't envy you my friend.

shotoutacc0rd

I'm always careful with a razor blade, if you're not careful it is really easy to exert too much pressure and scratch things up. I only use them on oil pans and stuff with rubber gaskets, its a bad idea to use it for a metal gasket surface

IMO the best thing to use is the roloc abrasives that are for whiz wheels. The scotch brite pads aren't bad but they're not as good as the plastic ones, those are the safest thing to use. *this is contested later, dunno man I always use these on gasket surfaces

I bet there are attachments so you can use an impact or even regular power drill incase you dont have a whiz wheel

shotoutacc0rd

OP, unless you want to pull the block out to have it milled, you can try using a graphite gasket instead of the steel one that is for your engine. Those apparently are better for sealing rough surfaces.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

they are indeed better. some guys advocate copper gasket spray as well. ive never personally used it, but some swear by it.

shotoutacc0rd

IV used it before, dunno if it helped or not, never on my personal vehicle.

I might use it on my engine this time. I mean it cant hurt right?

TomCat39

They're called roloc disks and the white ones are better than the green. Green is 80 grit if I recall while the white ones are 120 grit.

Honda tech bulletin for the D15B7 graphite leak replacement speaks of a special scraper (Guessing softer than aluminum) and brake cleaner to get the stubborn gasket material off. I believe it expressly forbids use of abrasive disks etc. Even though I think they may be talking about the standard scratchy discs of the day.

I figure with plastic scrapers and brake clean I should be in decent shape. Will let the brake clean soak in and that should make it bare-able.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

i just use brake cleaner and a gasket scraper, carefully. usually soak in brake cleaner first, comes off easily.

shotoutacc0rd

I used the green roloc disk, iv never used white i only get the green ones. i think theyre between white and it was like yellow* i guess, i forget. dunno if I'll pay using it later, but I dont see what makes a d15b7 so special.



I prefer my aftermarket gaskets but if I end up not finding the head-on valve stem seal tool thats mentioned in the manual, I'll prolly use the steel oem gasket on my z6

tony_2018

What does the valve stem seal tool have to do with a head gasket. The green 80 grit works fine but you might end up taking more than you need.

TomCat39

It's not special, the bulletin actually applies to all non vtec engines from 88-95. They had the graphite gaskets. Vtec used the Multiple Layer Steel gaskets (MLS). For our forum that only leaves two engines in the USDM and CAD 92-95 markets, the D15B7 and the D15B8.

The difference is the graphite gasket. Graphite always leaves residue and pieces of material behind on the block and head. On the MLS gaskets the thin rubber coating doesn't seem to leave bits and pieces behind as much if at all.

user1qaz2wsx

OK, that's what I thought. The scratches are actually just little marks. The camera and lighting really makes them shine. It's the indentation and the pitting that has me worried. When I brought the head to my machinist a year or so ago, I brought him a pic of the pitting. He said if it wasn't in the fire ring it wouldn't be a problem. Now I'm starting to wonder if the block is scrap. What's the max that can be taken off before I start having clearance problems?

If I get the deck resurfaced, I might as well rebuild the entire thing. It has to come completely apart anyway. I hear a lot about the Y8 oiling problems and spun bearings. Would it be better to go with another D16? I just want a reliable engine that will pass inspection every year like this one did. I've had swapped civics before. I got sick of getting gouged by people to look the other way. My performance days are over. :-(

Maybe I'll just slather it with copper coat and see what happens...

Thanks for all the input!

tony_2018

The cost of disassembling/reassembling will amount to another motor. The upside is its a fresh block with zero miles so it will last you another +5 yrs or more depending on tranny. Your choice.

edit: I've never seen a headgasket scrape like that, someone must've did a bad job the first time or something.