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Just got low idle yesterday. No CEL so far: I've got a 16 pin DLC on my '97 Civic EX, so I'll jump pins 4 and 9 if I get a CEL to pull the code.

Meanwhile I've learned online that the go to methods to deal with low idle are, in no particular order, bleed cooling system, clean IACV, disconnect IACV and adjust throttle screw, do as indicated by CEL code.

What is the #1 best odds first repair attempt? Bleeding the coolant?

What about just driving the car, say for a week or two 20 mile commute? Any chance that the onboard computer can detect and rectify the low idle? Or should I get on the problem asap?

Thanks!

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You don't need to jump anything in the DLC, just jump the 2 pin connector near the ECU. You'll need to jumper that 2 pin connector to properly adjust your idle anyway. If your CEL isn't on, though, jumpering isn't going to give you anything.

If your idle is only low, don't **** with your IACV. You might end up doing more harm than good, since you don't know what you're doing. Start off by bleeding your coolant, and following the FSM procedure for adjusting your idle.

Attachment 517892

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Looks like a plan. Next up, get hold of a no leak funnel / bleeder kit. Thank you.

I put in a couple of hours looking for the two pin plug today, pulled off the passenger side kick panel, looked behind the rug and up in under the dash, also on the drivers' side. It's supposed to be a distinctively slightly largish blue plug either hanging loose or dummy plugged. Right?

This is a '97 Canadian Civic EX. Where exactly is that friggin plug supposed to be?

Also, on the FSM idle procedure, are those two sensors to be disconnected just pull off, or simple screw off? As in zoop, zoop? Got to pull stuff off to get at them? Tight spots? Small job for the expert. Big challenge for the novice. Advice appreciated.

Thanks!

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

No need for any kind of "kit". Park the car up a hill, remove radiator cap, start the car, and let it run for 2 radiator fan cycles while keeping the radiator full. You can find information on finding the plug in the FAQ sticky - search for "CEL" in there, it'll be the second one.

Hmm, I just realized I posted the FSM procedure for the D16Y5/B16A2. Don't use that. Unless someone beats me to it, I'll try to post the correct FSM page when I get home.

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According to the image in the FAQ the plug is supposed to be tacked onto the upper left corner of the ECU. In my car the ABS box rides on top of what must be the ECU underneath. I guess I'll tear off the passenger side kick panel and take another look. Worst case scenario I can jump pins 4 and 9 on the 16 pin connector.

Good tip on bleeding on a hillside. I'll do it. I guess this goes for bleeding after a cooling system drain and refill as well?

Thanks for the update on the FSM pages. I look forward to seeing the updated pages. Useful for myself, for others as well I hope.

Thank you.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

The plug might be hiding up there, but it most definitely should be there somewhere.

Yes, the uphill bleed also works after a flush. The trick is to make sure that the highest point in the system is somewhere the air can escape. With the car parked on a slight incline (or on jack stands, or on rolling ramps), the radiator cap becomes the highest point in the system, so air will come out there instead of getting caught somewhere else.

I think the procedure is the same, minus the EVAP solenoid, but I could be wrong.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

If you have an autotragic transmission, this is the one you need:

Attachment 517890

If you have a standard transmission, this is the one you need:

Attachment 517891

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Autotragic it is. The idle adjustment for autotragic comes as a surprise. Very simple procedure -- just adjust the throttle screw with no sensor disconnection required. And the dash tach can do. I know what 750 and 810 rpm sound like, and I know where the needle should be when the idle is right.

I appreciate your time and effort. Thanks for the support!