chazor

OK so I have had a 94 civic coupe for a couple years now, however i haven't been able to do anything to it due to money or lack there of. I would like to bring the stock z6's hp up a bit but again very mild I would like to set a goal of like 150-165. I feel like anything else I will get my self in trouble lol so not looking for major power just a little more kick.

My thought process was to throw an aftermarket cam/springs , ram intake, and a tune? We're would that put me?

I already have a 2.5 catback exhaust system.
That was put on the car when I bought it as it was cheaper than replacing the exhaust system with OEM.(some retard drilled holes in the pipes thinking it "sounded cool")
thinking about a high flow cat, but from what I read they don't do much unless your turboed and trying to get over 300 hp. Correct me if I'm wrong.

tony_2018

Which cams?

White_EG1

Anything past 150 is hard without extensive funds.

tony_2018

He needs to list what cam's he is referring to, no point in shooting around in the dark.

chazor

Honestly was thinking stage 1 cam from zex or crower hadn't really looked into it to much just wondering if I could pull 150 out of just cam. Replacing a the head and figured if I was ganna do it that would be the time

chazor

I've also thought of just getting a jdm d15b instead of getting a head. A little history the car has an overheating issue that exhaust was getting into the cooling system causing it to eat through coolent. Three head gaskets later I can't get it to start consistently but when it does start it runs fine. No coolent in the oil, and it doesn't burn oil and I just reset the timing and it started right up now this am it wouldn't start(timing done last night)

CandyRedRC46

a 150-165 whp d16z6 is not mild. That is going to take a decent amount of compression, cam and rpms.

chazor

:/ hmm what if I went FI can the z6 handle low boost like 8-9lb without worries? It's my daily driver

Bently_Coop

Sounds like you need to figure out the overheating issue before modifications.

Did you have the head machined when before replacing the head gaskets? Does your fan work? Did you bleed the system properly?

If you wan't to make it fun a clutch and lightweight flywheel, y8 intake manifold, intake and header can help but not worth it to try and squeeze 150+ hp out of it with a cam and head job.

Does the Zex cam require new springs and valves?

chazor

From what I understand the stage 1 zex does not.
No never had the head milled
Haven't had a chance to bleed coolent system properly this time because I can't get it to start reliably. When it's warm (after driving or warm day) it doesn't wanna start just cranks,but other times it started right up so I haven't done anything with it untill I get that fixed.
I'm hopping to be able to order a new head soon it will come fully assembled not including the cam gear but I'm ganna make sure its lubed properly. Don't trust other peoples work for some reason (the new head is ganna be remanufactured)

chazor

Previously the cooling system was bled. fan radiator and all sensors and relays were replaced thermostat as well only thing in Colling system I hadn't replaced was the water pump but was getting exhaust idk about this time I can't always get it running lol

Bently_Coop

Wouldn't bother replacing the head, you have other issues. If your going to replace the head for a head gasket you should have swapped the water pump, timing belt and timing belt tensioner at the same time. Before that you need to trouble shoot the hard starting issue.

Do you hear the Fuel pump prime? Do you have spark? Is everything connected after the head gasket swap?

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

waste o' money.

chazor

Reason why I was ganna replace the head is even after the first hg change still had overheating but it seamed to be of cooling loss and I could never figure out were the coolent was going it wasn't mixing with oil and it wasn't leaking out the second hg change I took the head to nappa's machine shop to check for straightness, they told me it wasn't completely straight but that a hg would seal it so I took there word on it and put it back together and even then ran perfectly but I still lost coolent. Prier to this last hg change the vss and the iat sensors had gone out and it was running like **** also had an electrical issues with the tail lights that replacing the bulbs fixed (kept blowing fuses)after this last hg change I replaced the vss and cleaned the iat it was pretty coated in carbon, the only thing I did not by the book is the head is torqued to 65 instead of 54 because I had to reuse nappa head bolts, read they stretch no I gave them another ten lb torque. Reason for hd change this time is I couldn't go 15 mi after putting coolent in it before it would start to overheat again

chazor

Oh I agree that's what I was trying to do first
I hadn't gone through spark yet
Here's what I have done.

Reset timing (a friend told me it could be timing) .
Checked all fuelpump fuses and main relay seams to still have the three clicks.
I haven't had alot of time to work on it being a stay at home dad with an infant and a mother in-law who freaks when I leave him alone even if he's asleep
I assumed the dissy and components were good because it does start some times but that's my next step when I get the Chance as far as the feul pump I've never heard it come onill have to get the wife to turn the key while I'm in the back with the seat off.

delsolintegra

For the starting problem. Clean the bundle of wires at the thermostat housing.
That is the grounding point for the ECU. It is a brass spade connector with a steel bolt in to what I think is a aluminum thermostat housing. Dissimilar metals seems to cause a lot of corrosion. In a hot humid salt environment like Florida it causes a problem. After that if you still don't hear the fuel pump prime with the key in second position and the cel light doesn't blink on for 2 seconds and then go off I would suspect the capacitors in the ECU could be bad in the fuel pump priming circuit. Borrow a known good ECU and try that.

chazor

If capacitors were bad in the ecu wouldn't it not run at all? And I don't hear the feul pump but I never have I don't know that it's not turning on pretty sure I have pressure at the rail.
However not ruling it out till I see one way or the other just saying lol

chazor

Cel comes on like its supposed to
I don't have alot of time to troubleshoot during the week lol

delsolintegra

The capacitors going bad will cause a intermittent failure until they totally fail. Than the car won't start at all.

Humidity on a rainy day won't allow the fuel pump to prime.

On a dry day the car can start right up.

Someday the caps totally fail and it will never start again.

It's tough to diagnose. Swap in a known good ECU on a rainy day and it starts right up. Then you'll know for sure.

chazor

Don't have a known good ecu lol I will have to try other things for now I don't have way of knowing a known good ecu I know no one in PA that owns a Honda or anyone in PA for that matter anything else I can try?

chazor

Also its been dry and it won't start and its been rainy and it starts. Its almost like if warm it won't startbut I can't say for sure I was planning on buying a chipped ecu any way may just be sooner than later

Bently_Coop

How old is your thermostat? Does the temp gauge just rise and stay there until you turn it off?

Thinking the overheat may be your thermostat is bad. I would replace with a Honda unit. Other wise your temp sensor could be bad.

chazor

No thermo was replaced not even 6 months old

chazor

So went to go test things and it started right up no hesitation cranked for a literal second and started right up so I can't really test anything while its starting can I?

chazor

So let it run till operating temp and shut it off then it won't start checked spark I have spark and I have fuel pressure
Also replaced fuel filter while I was there