Landshark13

Hey guys. I am the proud owner of a red 2000 ex coupe sitting on SI rims.
it has the stock y8 with a manual tranny
I was driving on the freeway yesterday going faster then I should have. I was trying to pull to the redline in 4th but my car didnt have the power so I kept in it thinking maybe my car will snap out of it because it might be an ignition issue, when I let out of the gas the oil light came on so I shut it down. It turns out I was one quart low and now my engine is knocking. I am having a hard time finding Y8 and even y7's to do a mini me build but d17s are all over the place. I'm having a hard time finding the easiest option to swap one in my car to get back on the road. I was reading and it seems like to much work putting a y8 head on a d17 block. I don't want to mess with oil passages that dont line up and all of that. I can't get any straight options into swapping a d17 in, everybody on the forms is wanting to do all this stuff like use its coil on plug ignition setup. I was wanting to find a d17 vtec longblock and swap all of my components over like the intake and exhaust manifolds ,distributor and wiring harness and run it. With my ecu.Will this work ? I am finding alot of conflicting information. Can somone please help

Also I am having a very hard time finding a replacment y8. If you know where I can find an inexpensive y8 or even a y7near mesa/ Phoenix AZ let me know

Turbo1983

iTrader: (1)

Just do a B swap. Lol ����

Landshark13

I am trying to get it back on the road on a budget otherwise I would just spend 800 or a grand on a ebay engine

mk378

Everyone with a car that came with a D17 wants to swap it out. It is not fast. It doesn't like being modified to try to make it faster. And I don't think it will match your D16 transmission and mounts.

Landshark13

My y8 was not fast.
But then again I thought my h22a accord was slow.
I just tried driving my car like a mile to go to work and it died on me and would not start again. I drug it back home and it turned out I had a bad coil so I replaced it. Is it possible that the coil was failing when I was driving it really hard but still functioning and that caused a little pre detonation and a rod knock? The knock is still slide enough where I don't have any metal shavings in the oil yet. I am wondering if I pull the oil pan and see what rod bearings are messed up if the crank is still smooth and the connecting rods are fine if I slap some rod bearings in it if that will fix it

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

not interchangeable.

tony_2018

OP, where ever you heard about swapping a d17 into older generation civics just please keep it there. Go sign up there and ask all the questions you like.

Landshark13

I normally mess with Accords and swaps like h22s.
I am new to civics and the wimpy d series so dont hate I was just getting alot of conflicting information.
thanks everyone else for being helpful

tony_2018

Put it this way, I haven't seen anybody on here done it. Good hint drop, see? Best keep the questions to where you found that tidbit of info.

Landshark13

https://youtu.be/Z3V8QALl0lE

TomCat39

A D is a D is a D. Simply, the D17 isn't going to be much over your Y8. You likely spun a bearing on the Y8 as it's very common.

You can't put your Y8 head on the D17 block as the 7th gen they moved the oil return passages. I mean you can but there was concern of oil pooling in those return spots on the head that are blocked on the block. So really you are going to want the complete motor, intake, and exhaust header and ECU. And you will likely need to add to your harness or conversion harness. I think you have OBD2A and I'm pretty sure the D17's are OBD2B but don't quote me as I'm not sure.

I'm surprised you can't find D16Y7's in your area, you can rob the block and put your head on that and be pretty close to back in business. I think you just need to transfer your knock sensor over from the Y8 block.

The reason Honda went with slightly larger displacement (D17) is that the cars were a bit heavier so they needed the extra torque from displacement to get or slightly beat the previous generation power/0-60 specs.

Regardless, the D17 in your car still won't compare to the H22. B series is where you need to go if you want the extra torque and it's much easier to put into your car than the D17 due to electrical reasons. The B still uses coil in distributor while the 7th gen (D17) went with coil on plug setup.

tony_2018

might wanna message the guy. still posts videos.

TomCat39

It's not that it hasn't been done. I remember reading about it on D-Series.org. The concern expressed is 2 of the return oil passages are not used on the head as they got moved on the block so there is pooling in the head at those two locations. Oil returns through the other passages and the motor runs.

I don't think there has been any feedback on long term effects of this. Might need a little extra oil in the motor.

I was thinking about drilling into a D17 block in the two corners to see if you could do a couple of fittings and 90 degree bend to use hoses outside of the block to connect the outer passages of the head to the center passages of the block. Never have got around to mangling a block at the salvage yard.

tony_2018

I'd either weld it or fill it with jb weld.

TomCat39

I don't believe it's really of concern.
If I recall the two ports in the head land on solid flat part of the block.
No where for the oil to go unless the oil can seep through a compressed head gasket between the head and block.

I will see if I can find the sources I found years ago in regards to this frankenmotor.

My question would be is there any side effects of having 1-1.5 inches pool in the two corners of the head? Oh and it looks like there is a couple of water pots that may be an issue.

Detailed information here found in 1 second of google searching:
https://www.d-series.org/forums/engi...iscussion.html