TwoFacedCustoms

So when me and my friend pulled my intake mani off to replace the gasket for that and the tb...and clean all the buildup off both of them...we noticed my knock sensor was broken...

It looked like it had been broken for awhile but was just baaaaaaarely hanging on by a thread and I guess we bumped it to it's end now I'm getting the CEL for it.

I did some research and as I assumed it's just a piezo trans...said to have an output between 1.5-3v...anything over 3 will start having negative effects on timing etc.

Somebody rigged a piezo from radio shack to the fuel rail and then put a speaker wire all the way to the ECU and then the neg on the piezo to a good ground in the bay.

That sounds way too ghetto. I was wondering if there was some way I could supply a 2v constant or so to the ecu input and a ground...similar to what he did but instead of using the piezo taped to a fuel rail for the voltage...which is very unreliable...he was just trying to pass emissions...I'm looking for a more long-term bypass method.

Anybody know of something in the bay that puts out between 1.5 and 2v constant I could use?

Thanks in advance.

If this is a horrible idea...and would have negative effects no matter what just tell me.

98greensi

i have no real help for you... but i searched for many months on this and came up with no good answer, finally i just installed the knock sensor (im using a odb1 block with a obd2 ecu head etc)

rndmheroxx

i know its been done, i cant remember where exactly I saw the thread. but either way, just get a new one dude! better be safe than just look for an easy way out, besides its not hard to replace anyways. if you go to a parts store just ask for their cheapest Honda knock sensor, any one will work as long as it was from a honda, I have a B-series knock sensor on my d16 right now. If you go ask for one for a d16y8 its like $130 new lol. but yeah thats just my advice. if you rigged something up yourself, you have nothing to save you incase your motor does start knocking

EJeff8

^Meh, knock sensors can get tricked easily especially with N/A builds. Also, the Y8 is special in the fact it's the only D with a knock sensor I'm pretty sure. If you don't want VTEC, it's not a big deal.

rndmheroxx

very true... i would just sleep better knowing its there though lol. also no knock sensor will not cause vtec to not engage, only that annoying orange light on your dash to come on

kab00m

The orange light is very bright on the dim lighted Honda cluster. Let me know what you figure out TwoFaced.

TwoFacedCustoms

I found out that you can get them new on ebay for like 26 dollars.

It seems the only people rigging them to bypass are using the ghetto piezo method...and it's always just to pass emissions and stuff real quick.

I can deal with 26 dollars...I just figured I'd ask to see if for some crazy reason somebody just slapped a resistor in there and was good to go.

Damn obd2b.

This is a daily...and I keep going back and forth between wanting a b swap and going FI on the d...and then some days I'm like eh I'll just throw a header on it and leave it as it is and buy a shell and build on that.

No matter what I do I think I'm just going to get a chipped p28...seems like alot less hassle.

EJeff8

Uh, no. On top of the CEL, you also lose VTEC if you don't have a knock sensor. If the ECU thinks you're knocking, why in hell would it add 20 more hp at high rpms?!

HondaPartsHero

it will activate VTEC, at least on OBD1 ECU's

EJeff8

^Not obd2. I've found this out first hand.

goldfinger93030

If you really want the resistor approach go ahead and do it it, shouldnt take too much more, just make a voltage divider circuit. Make the circuit be +12V source - 600k resistor- 100k resistor - and then ground. you can take your voltage measurement between the two resistors but then use a fuse . I calculate the current to be no more than 25uA in the worst case so you can use a respective fuse so you wont burn the ecu (i would use 50uA). That should work and it will be cheap.

TwoFacedCustoms

If it isn't a huge amount of trouble could you draw something in paint real quick and post up?

I get the whole 12v to resistor part...and that would go straight to the knock sensor wire on the ecu...but where would a ground go...it's only one wire from the ecu?

D16SiHatch

just get the new sensor. it's cheap and not worth the hassle of wiring something like this up. the ecu is looking for a variable voltage from the ks. what is being described above will not provide that and you will still get a code.

EJeff8

This is true, with something like this it would probably send different voltages throughout rpms and gears.

goldfinger93030

Yeah that circuit is made to give one voltage without loading the ecu. If it needs variable voltage proportional to rpm your better off getting the knock sensor. Sorry to get your hopes up but i was going off the information off the top of the tread alone