PinoyxEJ6

okay, im downgrading from a d16y7 to a d16z6 and i already know its direct bolt on, but im just confuse with the wiring, because im going from a OBD2 to a OBD1 and i am not really sure what i need to do to make everything work.. can some one help? and whats a jumper harness?

THC07

just color match the wires at the Distriubutor.

look on ebay for a obd2 to obd1 jumper


Oh and search, top right in red

97Ej6mike

How is that a downgrade? The 7y is Nonvtec 1.6 liter, whereas the Z6 is the VTEC 1.6liter.

Some things may not match up when it comes to wiring. Ive never had a problem, I personally have a Jdm D15b in my civic, and im running it with OBD2 wiring harness and OBD2 ecu ( factory EX 96-00) and it runs perfectly fine, except it throws a CEL for the Crank Angle Sensor. ( Very soon plans for a jumper and P28)

As far as i know, you can put it in, despite the stories i have heard about changing the Dizzy, i never had a prob going from obd2 to 1.

THC07

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Ej6mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How is that a downgrade? The 7y is Nonvtec 1.6 liter, whereas the Z6 is the VTEC 1.6liter.

Some things may not match up when it comes to wiring. Ive never had a problem, I personally have a Jdm D15b in my civic, and im running it with OBD2 wiring harness and OBD2 ecu ( factory EX 96-00) and it runs perfectly fine, except it throws a CEL for the Crank Angle Sensor. ( Very soon plans for a jumper and P28)

As far as i know, you can put it in, despite the stories i have heard about changing the Dizzy, i never had a prob going from obd2 to 1.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you know you can fix that Crank angle sensor light.
take the sinal from the dizzy... ill find my notes, brb

EDIT: I dont remembet the exact details but the concept is pretty simple, when the motor is running the ecu is trying to compare the ckf sensor at the crank(which you no longer have) with ckp sensor from the dizzy which both output the same 12 pulses per crank revolution(or 24 per cam revolution) to make sure your
timing belt is alligned correctly. All you need to do is to run the wires from the ckp from the distributor to both the ckp and the ckf and the ecu is happy.

Just splice c1 to c4 at the ecu and c11 to c14(not sure if this is necessary or not but I did it) and you are ready to go.


Modified by THC07 at 11:59 AM 4/14/2007

97Ej6mike

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THC07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> EDIT: I dont remembet the exact details but the concept is pretty simple, when the motor is running the ecu is trying to compare the ckf sensor at the crank(which you no longer have) with ckp sensor from the dizzy which both output the same 12 pulses per crank revolution(or 24 per cam revolution) to make sure your
timing belt is alligned correctly. All you need to do is to run the wires from the ckp from the distributor to both the ckp and the ckf and the ecu is happy.

Just splice c1 to c4 at the ecu and c11 to c14(not sure if this is necessary or not but I did it) and you are ready to go. Modified by THC07 at 11:59 AM 4/14/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>


Wow, bit much to take in, are there any threads with pictures or other in-depth texts of how to do that?

PinoyxEJ6

thanks guys for your help... i appriciate it.. btw do i need anything else besides a OBD2 to a OBD1 jump harness? like do i have to change anything else? and what do i need to connect my vtec to my ecu?

97Ej6mike

Well, its obvious you need the OBD1 ecu, most likely a P28 (OBD1 VTEC). You will need to wire VTEC manuely to the ECU, which isnt all too hard, there are plenty of writeups on this site of MINI-ME swaps; a few wires, and youll be set.

For future reference: When you do wire VTEC, it doenst engage until the car has warmed up past the C marker on ur temperature guage, so dont think you did it worng when you goto test drive right away, and it isnt kicking in, the car must be almost fully wamred up.

THC07

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Ej6mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
For future reference: When you do wire VTEC, it doenst engage until the car has warmed up past the C marker on ur temperature guage, so dont think you did it worng when you goto test drive right away, and it isnt kicking in, the car must be almost fully wamred up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, unless the ecu is chipped and the vtec temp check was disabled.

If you have any other obd1 ecu, it would proble be cheaper to have it chipped for like 80$, rather then spend 120 on a p28.

PinoyxEJ6

aight, thanks for the info guys..