d15b no spark
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d15b no spark
I swapped out my stock 1.6L for a d15b because of a bent crank and toasted rod. Was cheaper to to with a motor over replacement parts.
The shop I picked my motor up at said it was a clean swap, which it was. My issue is after getting everything done today and went to turn it over, it didn't start. I'm getting fuel, but not spark on any of the plugs. I'm still using my dizzy from my 1.6 which was working fine prior to the swap. could the coil have gone or is there any other possibilities. I had cleaned all the grounds (vc, trans, therm) with no change. The rotor turns (replaced the timing belt when i got the motor). Is there other checks that I can do without the multimeter (need to pick one up when i get a ride) or swapping out parts. I have a 93 civic. I hope I didn't do anything to fry the coil, dizzy or anything else.
Thanks in advance.
The shop I picked my motor up at said it was a clean swap, which it was. My issue is after getting everything done today and went to turn it over, it didn't start. I'm getting fuel, but not spark on any of the plugs. I'm still using my dizzy from my 1.6 which was working fine prior to the swap. could the coil have gone or is there any other possibilities. I had cleaned all the grounds (vc, trans, therm) with no change. The rotor turns (replaced the timing belt when i got the motor). Is there other checks that I can do without the multimeter (need to pick one up when i get a ride) or swapping out parts. I have a 93 civic. I hope I didn't do anything to fry the coil, dizzy or anything else.
Thanks in advance.
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Re: d15b no spark (Sick EM1)
i'll have to call the shop tomorrow since they were closed today to see if the dizzy is the same. They told me that everything that goes on the 1.6 would bolt on my 1.5.
injection signal? how would I check that. If that is I'm getting fuel, I am on that. I'm going to pull the CEL code as well to see if I can get a better idea of what is causing it.
injection signal? how would I check that. If that is I'm getting fuel, I am on that. I'm going to pull the CEL code as well to see if I can get a better idea of what is causing it.
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Re: d15b no spark (Syndacate)
i tried to pull the CEL. I had it earlier when I first ran into this. But this was only when a plug wire was pulled. I think I found the right spot. I pulled the carpet back on the passenger side kick panel. I saw the ecu. There was two plugs right under/behind the glove box. a brown plug with 2 wires and a gray with 4 or 5 wires. The brown had a black and blue wire. I assumed this was the right plug per the CEL FAQ. I jumped it. Turned the key to on. The CEL came on as usual then just went out.
I took it a step further and cranked the motor and no CEL. All plugs in and wires to plugs.
Any other way to check the coil and igniter this late in the evening. I was planing on getting a multimeter to check the voltage drops. My dad has crap for tools and all mine are still sitting in storage in another state.
I took it a step further and cranked the motor and no CEL. All plugs in and wires to plugs.
Any other way to check the coil and igniter this late in the evening. I was planing on getting a multimeter to check the voltage drops. My dad has crap for tools and all mine are still sitting in storage in another state.
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Re: d15b no spark (92sihbk)
ok, picked up a multimeter and followed the tests in the Haynes manual.
Here are the results.
Coil:
Primary resistance: .9 - 1.0
recommended: .6 - .8
Secondary resistance: 8.94k
recommended: 12.8k - 19.8k
So I'm concerned on the Coil. Should I replace this or am I still ok with my numbers. It says based on 70 degress temp, but it's 105 out here right now and the day is just starting.
Next test ICM:
Black/Yellow (middle term) & Ground: 11.44V
White/Blue & Ground: 0V
Continuity between white/blue & blue (offset term): 0k
recommended: 1.1k - 3.3k
From what I have found and would like a second opinion before I pick up parts for this. The ICM is shot. Wires look good, fuses look good. The coil I think is still good.
Thanks
Here are the results.
Coil:
Primary resistance: .9 - 1.0
recommended: .6 - .8
Secondary resistance: 8.94k
recommended: 12.8k - 19.8k
So I'm concerned on the Coil. Should I replace this or am I still ok with my numbers. It says based on 70 degress temp, but it's 105 out here right now and the day is just starting.
Next test ICM:
Black/Yellow (middle term) & Ground: 11.44V
White/Blue & Ground: 0V
Continuity between white/blue & blue (offset term): 0k
recommended: 1.1k - 3.3k
From what I have found and would like a second opinion before I pick up parts for this. The ICM is shot. Wires look good, fuses look good. The coil I think is still good.
Thanks
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Re: (BOWXDOWN2)
I ended up buying a new distributor since it was cheaper than playing the guessing game. got it all hooked up and turn the key over. power to everything, then turn the key. power gone and a click sound. no fuses blowing. i pulled the fuses and tried again. power again and then went to start and click.
really lost now.
really lost now.
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Re: (skipunk)
got her started. i retraced my steps on pulling the fuses to check them and bumped a wire by the battery. my wife telling me there is power to the car. she tried to start it and click, dead. right before that i was telling her about the alarm on the car. I have a relay on it that pops if someone tries to short it out to steal it, etc. the alarm is pretty much toast. i keep it for the basic functions and door locks for the time being. turned out the relay was popping and killing the power to the car.
so far for my first swap, it wasn't as bad as i thought. Learned alot. My wife enjoyed helping along the way and wants to know when well drop the b18 in.
Another time. So far to this point it all looks good.
Thanks for all the help.
so far for my first swap, it wasn't as bad as i thought. Learned alot. My wife enjoyed helping along the way and wants to know when well drop the b18 in.
Another time. So far to this point it all looks good.
Thanks for all the help.
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