DxBurnoutKing

1994 civic Dx Coupe 5spd

D16Z6 swap with a P28 ECU

Throwing Codes

10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor (possibly 14)

and

20 Electrical load detector


Did the swap like 3-4 weeks ago car wouldnt start due to bad grounds. Got the grounds sanded down, car started up BUT we had fiddled with the dizzy so we assumed the timing was gonna be a little off.

A week after driving the car was rev limiting at the Vtec Engagement point, so I checked for any codes, I was getting Code 14 (IACV). I had a spare IACV laying around but didnt have any time to replace it....next thing i know after another week of driving in limp-cant-go-past 4k RPM mode, one day i tried revving it and it went up past the vtec engagement point no problem and vtec was engaging, i was happy.

Now, like 3-4 days after that i'm driving and the car stutters a little bit and the RPM needle jumps around a bit makes me go O_o?? but it wasnt bad so I just kind of ignored it. Now its getting bad, whenever i try to accelerate the RPM needle goes ******* bananas jumping all over the place and the car jerks like a ************ really erratically.

Anyone ever have this **** happen to them? if so, how the hell do I fix it? Thanks!

DxBurnoutKing

ok... better question would be.

If I changed my IACV, would that get rid of my IAT code?

and also, WTF is an Electric Load Detector and where is it found? the Dizzy? the Alternator?

Please let me know.

turboxsi

No your IAT sensor is on the back of your intake manifold on the altenator side, usually a little white sensor with two wire plug going to it. So no changing the iavc will not help with your iat code. Your electronic load detector is in your fuse box under the hood.

Haha actually its sounds like your have you plugs backwards, both of these sensors are two prong plugs and will fit each other. I have seen this happen alot or the evap purge (also two plug connector) could be hooked to one of these two sensors. And that will cause your **** to run how you describe.

DxBurnoutKing

Ok, so maybe the fuse is blown? would that cause a code? or would that make the car not work altogether?

turboxsi

possible blow fuse if you do have **** hook up backwards like is said above. But the ELD is a unit in the fuse box not a fuse so i don't know

DxBurnoutKing

initially we did have the plugs backwards and that was making me throw the Code 14 we switched the plugs and it ran fine with no codes.. now here we are a few weeks later and this **** is goin bananas

DxBurnoutKing

up to the top so more ppl can see this