99GreenEX

Ok. So my car started idling wierd...

When i start it it will be at about 2200 RPM. Touch the gas and it fluctuates between 1200 and 2200. Once it is all the way warmed up it is a very fast bounce between 1500 and 1600.

I used a code scanner (little orange one) and it gave me 2 codes, both were P0505. I also jumped the ECM plug, and it threw a code 14 (IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve).

I cleaned out the old one, and also the throtle body, and reinstalled it, same thing. I baught and installed a new IACV and i STILL have the same problem.

I have noticed 3 things while tampering with it and cleaning/reinstalling the IACV.
1. There is coolant in the drivers side hose, but no coolant on the other side...
2. When i turn the throttle body valve (where the throttle cable connects and twists it) to the closed direction (with quite a good bit of force) the idle comes down slightly but still fluctuates.
3. Before it is fully warmed up and the idle bounces between 1200-2200, i can hold the brake, put it in first and bring the RPM down by release the clutch some, and then when i let go sometimes i can have it stay steady around 1300 RPM.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated...

I've owned the car since 116K miles, its got 144K now, and i've only gone one maintenance cycle (3K miles) without something new f**king up. I'm contemplating running into a tree at about 70 or so and collecting the insurance and buying a real car...

99GreenEX

Bump

99GreenEX

BUMP.
Why are these boards being so gay, ***** only loading half the expletiveing time and this is the 4th attempt at bumping the post back up...

dc2's

did you fix it??

99GreenEX

No. I don't know what the f**k to do with this POS. I think i might go burn it down over the weekend and collect insurance, expletive honda. Great reliability? Yea i guess you can always count on it beinga piece of **** thats gunna expletive up all the time...

Relic1

-vacuum leak (best bet)
or
-throttle plate adjustment screw holding open the throttle plate

1. coolant in one side and not the other is not a problem, it drains down a little when the engine is turned off.
2. see second thought above
3. see first thought above

you've owned it for just under 30k, I'm guessing that it hasn't always had this issue.

have you tried a different ECU?

99GreenEX

FIXED (i think, so far it's stable anyways..)

I performed the troubleshooting steps a while ago, as well as spray the **** out of everything with carb cleaner, and determined it not to be a vacuum leak.

I tried the idle adjustment screw, but it would not bring the idle below 1200...

Like i said when i turn the throttle valve closed, it would lower RPM.. So i loosened the nut the holds it, and used pliers to adjust it right to where the car would want to sputter and eventually die (with the idle screw all the way in). I then turned the screw back to where it was to begin with and started the car, idle was around 900 RPM, i then just turned it in half a turn and it went to about 750 RPM.

I did all this with the engine warmed up, and took it for a test drive. I noticed that sometimes when i just go to neutral and coast to a light the idle would be at 1000 RPM steady. When i tap the gas it will settle back down to 750 RPM.

I'm letting the car cool down right now so i can see later what it does at cold idle..

If everything is good, maybe these steps should be put into a Code 14 repair post or something so others can find it..

dc2's

its the idle control valve!!!

99GreenEX

i already replaced the idle air control valve... that didn't fix the problem...

Read the last post i made (before this one), thats how i fixed it....

IIXtremeHansen

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99GreenEX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FIXED (i think, so far it's stable anyways..)

I performed the troubleshooting steps a while ago, as well as spray the **** out of everything with carb cleaner, and determined it not to be a vacuum leak.

I tried the idle adjustment screw, but it would not bring the idle below 1200...

Like i said when i turn the throttle valve closed, it would lower RPM.. So i loosened the nut the holds it, and used pliers to adjust it right to where the car would want to sputter and eventually die (with the idle screw all the way in). I then turned the screw back to where it was to begin with and started the car, idle was around 900 RPM, i then just turned it in half a turn and it went to about 750 RPM.

I did all this with the engine warmed up, and took it for a test drive. I noticed that sometimes when i just go to neutral and coast to a light the idle would be at 1000 RPM steady. When i tap the gas it will settle back down to 750 RPM.

I'm letting the car cool down right now so i can see later what it does at cold idle..

If everything is good, maybe these steps should be put into a Code 14 repair post or something so others can find it..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im having the same damn problem. everything you desceibe above. I bought a new OEM IACV. Sprayed everything with intake cleaner. Where is the throttle valve that you adjusted, the nut?

IIXtremeHansen

its that lil plate where the throttle cable connect to right? thats what you adjusted?

99GreenEX

yes. I think what happened was i had the cable too tight, and when i pressed hard on the gas it moved it somehow. Use some pliers to hold that part that the trottle cable attaches to. Loosen the nut, turn it closed (with the pliers) till just about the car wants to die.. then tighten the nut. Also make sure you have the idle screw all the way i before you do this, so you can rise the RPM back to a good amount...

IIXtremeHansen

yeah gonna mess with it later on today. hope it fixes it.i had the cable too tight also.