Dannyx321

Ok so my smartass brother run the clutch master cylinder dry and his clutch pedal went limp, I bought a new clutch master cylinder from autozone and bleed his system.

His clutch came back, but would sometimes stick to the floor if pushed all the way down and wont go in gear while the motor was running.

Might have not bleed correctly, I had him step on the clutch 20 times and on the last one have him step on it and stay down, and while he was holding it down, i crack open the bleeder and closed it. -we did this 20 times and i made sure the reservoir did not empty or even come close to have no brake fluid

Car is a 00 ex with a b16 swap

hannslebo

So it only sticks sometimes...and then sometimes it will work right?

Dannyx321

if work ,you mean get the car in gear to move it? No, the car will not go into gear at all

While pumping it, trying to bleed the system? yes, sometimes the pedal will comeback up like normal, sometimes it will just stay on the ground

hannslebo

Have you checked the slave cyl?

Dannyx321

i didnt bother chaning it, anything i should look out for?

hannslebo

A lot of the time...folks will change both master and slave together.

Just look around the slave for any kind of fluid...underneath/on the black boot/etc.

Dannyx321

friend said it either that or the clutch is out?

hannslebo

You figure it out?

NVturbo

Even if the clutch is "out", it doesn't cause the pedal to go all the way to the floor. Instead of the method you used, try this instead. Use an empty plastic container or soda bottle (20oz) and fill it halfway with brake fluid. Use a 1/4" clear tubing and connect one end into the clutch slave cylinder nipple and the other end directly into the fluid inside the bottle. Make sure the tube is completely submerged. I usually put the bottle on a flat surface and under the slave cylinder. Have someone pump the clutch pedal, another person fill the clutch reservoir (slowly) and one person open the nipple. Once you notice all the air bubbles gone from the tubing, close the nipple. Walla...the person pressing the pedal should notice the pedal getting more stiff. If not, the slave cylinder is shot or you have a leak in the line.

Dannyx321

ill try it out hope it works

Dannyx321

replaced clutch slave and bleed the clutch with the bottle method.

Now the car will sometimes go into gear and when I put it in 1st, the car stalls out about 2 secs later. Eats a lot of brake fluid, i just dont know whats wrong with it now, maybe the clutch line has a leak?

Cjlarson14

Does the pedal still go limp or does it maintain pressure and go back to the starting position? Did you replace the clutch or did a shop? If you did, did you properly assemble it and torque the pressure plate to the flywheel at spec?

Dannyx321

Now, the clutch pedal rarely gets stuck, and as for the clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate don't really know, bought the car like that, well my brother did

Cjlarson14

For the pedal going limp I'd suggest a problem with the clutch master cylinder, release cylinder, or a break or leak in your line somewhere. For not going into gear I'd suggest it's your clutch, pressure plate, bad torque's on the pressure plate, or the lever wasn't assembled right which I doubt. Check your lines for leaks or cracks and if you don't have the know how, have someone help you take off the transmission and check the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate.

lxdriver

My clutch pedal also went all the way down to the floor and bleed after bleed it still stayed the same, so I decided to take it to a mechanic to have it checked. All he did was bled it again, but this time he opened up the master cylinder and opened the bleeder valve on the salve cylinder WITHOUT touching the clutch pedal AT ALL, he just let gravity do its job and kept it like that for like 5mins while refilling the master cylinder so that it wouldn't dry out, now the pedal is nice and firm.

If for any case you have to replace your clutch, its not hard at all, just time consuming. If you do though, once the tranny is out with the shifter bar if you cant remove the "bitch pin", shift it 1-reverse by hand JUST MAKE SURE to have the car in neutral before any bolt is removed, it just helps make the job easier and less confusive. Heres a very detailed link if need be:
http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/do...l-58-pics.html

I just did this last week and I love my car even more now :-)

Dannyx321

im not seeing any fluid that shouldn't be coming out

As for the clutch and flywheel, me and my friend are going to do it, but not for a awhile, since i am school and work get it the way