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Im doing a head gasket job in a D15B7. The gasket i removed was a graphite one and some of it is stuck to the the block, where the head meets. wat are some good ways i can remove the graphite so i can put the new gasket on? Ive tried these with some success or non
Im doing a head gasket job in a D15B7. The gasket i removed was a graphite one and some of it is stuck to the the block, where the head meets. wat are some good ways i can remove the graphite so i can put the new gasket on? Ive tried these with some success or non
- used gas
- brake cleaner
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
On both of my D15B7 head gasket jobs I used plastic scrapers and then a lightly wet sanded with 2000 grit high quality 3m sandpaper the worst of the graphite grey spots. If you have a sanding block, it helps prevent creating low spots that you can get with finger sanding.
Also it's crucial to wet sand.
Also of note, sanding period is not recommended by most. You will have to blow out the cylinders well after you are done before assembly. It's also HIGLY advisable to put shop rags or paper towels into the cylinders to absorb any of the grit water that will bleed down the walls.
Many places use the finest grit roloc discs with the rubber fingers. I believe they are the yellow ones.
I always just use a razor blade (carefully). You don't want to shave the block and create low spots, as TomCat mentioned. I usually hold the razor blade in a vertical manner and scrape instead of at an angle that could dig into the block.
On both of my D15B7 head gasket jobs I used plastic scrapers and then a lightly wet sanded with 2000 grit high quality 3m sandpaper the worst of the graphite grey spots. If you have a sanding block, it helps prevent creating low spots that you can get with finger sanding.
Also it's crucial to wet sand.
Also of note, sanding period is not recommended by most. You will have to blow out the cylinders well after you are done before assembly. It's also HIGLY advisable to put shop rags or paper towels into the cylinders to absorb any of the grit water that will bleed down the walls.
Many places use the finest grit roloc discs with the rubber fingers. I believe they are the yellow ones.
I was just talking to my machinist about prepping the block for new head gasket. He explicitly said DO NOT use those discs with an air tool as he has seen folks ruin (Honda) blocks with them. I think you can get away with doing this on other blocks. He did say 1000 grit on a block is best.
I was just talking to my machinist about prepping the block for new head gasket. He explicitly said DO NOT use those discs with an air tool as he has seen folks ruin (Honda) blocks with them. I think you can get away with doing this on other blocks. He did say 1000 grit on a block is best.
There is two different kinds of discs. Roloc discs are with rubber fingers. While there is a flat disc with scotch brite material.
Either way, I'm leery of any power tool to clean off the soft aluminum block.
I was just reporting what I found some shops found to be successful and safe in the right hands. And the only thing I found that was recommended was the roloc disc, not the scotch brite disc.
However, looking it up, I made the mistake on the color, the highest grit is the white ones. The shops were using the green ones which I was even more leery of.
I've got the block 100% smooth, i cant scrape anything else off ( started using the plastic scrapers they worked well ) now all i have now is the grey spots. im assuming sanding is the only way to get rid of that? and i HAVE to get rid of the grey spots? First time head gasket replacement for me i am an apprenticing mechanic and i want to do this properly. here are some photo's if this helps, i appreciate your information guys it helps alot
edit: can you see the discoloration? theres spots that are silver and the darker graphite color
Edit: what is the warpage spec that the head should be in to be within spec for the D15B7
I only wet block sanded the worst of the gray dots off. I didn't actually get them totally gone. If I had I feared I would have taken off to much material. The smallest amount of graphite will fill imperfections in the metal and so with wet sanding I felt it was pretty decent with the dots severely lightened but not totally gone.
Here is the warp spec page for the 92-95 civic blocks (B7,B8,Z6 and Z1):
You will want to the Factory Service Manual (Helm's Manual) if you plan on keeping this car.
if paranoid, check block for flatness. in my 15 years of working on these cars, including dozens of d series head jobs, never have i seen a block warp. the heads are another story, they warp almost every time they're significantly overheated. did yours "blow" and cause an overheating condition, or was it just leaking?
if paranoid, check block for flatness. in my 15 years of working on these cars, including dozens of d series head jobs, never have i seen a block warp. the heads are another story, they warp almost every time they're significantly overheated. did yours "blow" and cause an overheating condition, or was it just leaking?
hasnt overheated ever, one day i noticed a strange smell and i took a wiff of the exhaust and it stank of coolant, as well as me losing alot, as soon as this happened i took it apart, behold! Gasket had a nice hole in it.
Update: the block and head are clean if graphite shavings, i drained all the coolant , some of the graphite shavings got into it so i drained it and put a shop vac to most if it. Next is checking for warpage. Fingers crossed
I haven't ever seen a warped block either, although I DID have a head gasket leak on an old CRX of mine...replaced the head gasket and 3 months later it started leaking again...took the head off and found a gouge on the FRONT of the block near the head that raised the surface of the block. I took an old wood planing tool from like the 40's I had laying around and shaved it flat and never had another problem. (Not recommended though!)
10-18-2016, 12:35 PM
Cleaning products for engine block cleaning?
Re: Cleaning products for engine block cleaning?
