Civic bogs while cold, idles low while warm - already replaced a bunch of stuff
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Civic bogs while cold, idles low while warm - already replaced a bunch of stuff
I have two issues. First is the cold bog. Happening since I got the car (96 LX, stock). Happens around 2500-3500 rpms. Just sputters and has no power at all for a few yards, then surges forward, then repeats. Happens for the first mile or so, every cold morning.
I've replaced the plugs, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter. Getting wires this week.
Also, since I've replaced the cap/rotor/fuel filter on Saturday, my car idles really low and feels like it's going to stall. Did I not do something right with the banjo bolt on the fuel filter install? The cap/rotor installed without issue, but I wasn't totally sure about the fuel filter.
I've replaced the plugs, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter. Getting wires this week.
Also, since I've replaced the cap/rotor/fuel filter on Saturday, my car idles really low and feels like it's going to stall. Did I not do something right with the banjo bolt on the fuel filter install? The cap/rotor installed without issue, but I wasn't totally sure about the fuel filter.
#4
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Re: Civic bogs while cold, idles low while warm - already replaced a bunch of stuff (Stripped Honda)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stripped Honda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ect sensor could be the problem </TD></TR></TABLE>
I've never had one go bad without throwing a CEL. It's probably a super crapped up IACV.
I've never had one go bad without throwing a CEL. It's probably a super crapped up IACV.
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Ugh I posted a similar problem numerous times, and did the same part replacements that you did, just noticed today that it bogs even more while cold. I guess I'll check the IACV. But would that change the bogging during 2500-3500 rpm?
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Re: (EK-TSOHCV-TaKRider)
dumb question but i gotta ask...
are you letting your car warm up?
do you have the right oil in it?
id imagine so, but sometimes people dont and it can do these things...
are you letting your car warm up?
do you have the right oil in it?
id imagine so, but sometimes people dont and it can do these things...
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I use the correct oil, my car warms up. Actually to be honest sometimes it seems to run better while it's cold.
I dont know, but i experience the same problems, between 2500-3500 is where it usually occurs, and the car feels like it is bogging, then has power, then returns to boggin, then has power, pretty sporadically.
I dont know, but i experience the same problems, between 2500-3500 is where it usually occurs, and the car feels like it is bogging, then has power, then returns to boggin, then has power, pretty sporadically.
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Re: (Jorsher)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jorsher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use the correct oil, my car warms up. Actually to be honest sometimes it seems to run better while it's cold.
I dont know, but i experience the same problems, between 2500-3500 is where it usually occurs, and the car feels like it is bogging, then has power, then returns to boggin, then has power, pretty sporadically.</TD></TR></TABLE>
its gotta be an IACV...
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ok, but here's just a small question I have, the IACV is the "idle-air control valve" am I correct? If that's true then what does it have to do with acceleration through 2500-3500 since that isn't idling? I'm not saying you're wrong, just asking for an explanation of how the IACV is the problem here. I always thought it just helped your car keep a steady idle depending on the temperature.
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Re: (Jorsher)
IACV = An electrically-operated valve which allows air to bypass the throttle plate in a fuel injected engine to regulate engine idle speed.
if its malfunctioning, it will cause the air to not bypass the throttle plate and you will run really funny. in most cases just bouncing from idle speed(750ish) to 3-4 g's...
if youve already changed everything and your car is still running funny id try it.
it wouldnt be the first thing on my list, but id definitely try it out...
if its malfunctioning, it will cause the air to not bypass the throttle plate and you will run really funny. in most cases just bouncing from idle speed(750ish) to 3-4 g's...
if youve already changed everything and your car is still running funny id try it.
it wouldnt be the first thing on my list, but id definitely try it out...
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Yeah see that's the thing... My car idles fine it seems... Around 1500 til the car is warmed up (that's normal right?) and after it's at operating temp it idles at around 500-700rpm.
I've changed the plugs, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter, and wires...like this guy has...and still have the problem. So if you're pretty sure the IACV might be the culprit I'll be glad to try it, just don't want to waste money
I've changed the plugs, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter, and wires...like this guy has...and still have the problem. So if you're pretty sure the IACV might be the culprit I'll be glad to try it, just don't want to waste money
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Re: (Jorsher)
1200-1500 is pretty normal...
im pretty sure its that, but id like to read some other opinions...
after all that has been changed, there really isnt much left.
im pretty sure its that, but id like to read some other opinions...
after all that has been changed, there really isnt much left.
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Yeah, like I said, I'm not saying it's a bad suggestion, honestly I've been considering it for months...but would also like to hear a little more input. Definately will see if that fixes the problem unless someone else has had this problem and knows what it is.
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To answer some questions, no other mods. This is a stock commuter shitbox. I'm running 10w-30, though the car burns oil so I'm constantly adding in oil every couple weeks. Where is the IACV, and do I need to replace it with a Honda part?
Any ideas on the super-low idle/borderline stalling action since I installed the fuel filter?
Any ideas on the super-low idle/borderline stalling action since I installed the fuel filter?
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