EJ8 D15Y8

Here we go,

The 5 in 5w-30 is only the thickness of the oil on startup and warm up. It then evolves into 30 weight when it is warm.

So a 5w30 is equal to a 10w30 when its warm.
5w30 will only let the motor crank easier on start up.

Is that clear ?

XxSOHCDriVerxX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just do a oil change like you would if it was regular oil. You do not need a special oil filter. They do sell synthetic oil filter, but you do not need them for running synthetic oil products.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well said

DelSolSi93

Ive had the best luck running Mobil 1 5w-30 year round here in colorado on my D16z6, great stuff, I change every 2500-3000k miles, it could probably go longer like people are saying, maybe 5k but I see a noticible fuel mileage drop after ~ 2750 miles and i change to to correct that, plus I dont care what anyone says you cant ever change your oil TOO much its just a matter of cost and how much you're willing to invest, I seriously doubt someone waiting to change their oil every time at like 5K miles + is going to see a longer or equal engine life as someone who changes more frequent 2500-3000k, just my $.02

EK45VTi

Honda says 3750 heavy and 7500 normal conditions...

And no Mobil1-pot-smokin-***-kissin-tech-wannabe can make me do other way...

They can talk all they want about oil is getting better the older it gets... they can tell it to my 1 year old daughter... even she wouldn't believe that...

I NEVER HEARD of a thing that gets better the older it gets... except wine and whiskey... and oil is not wine...

And the bottom line of everything said is that all those bandits in oil industries couldn't care less about us and our engines... their one and ONLY goal is PROFIT and longetivity of the cars is their last...

Cookie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KKVTi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ... they can tell it to my 1 year old daughter</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are there a few here that would actually enter into that? lol

ejprimo

you guys will be surprised to that not all 30wt. motor oils are of the same viscosity. the low viscosity 30wt. oils have a ACEA A1 label on the bottle. the higher viscosity 30wt. oils will have an ACEA A3 label which is a performance/stay in grade motor oil.

using a ACEA A3 motor oil will guarantee that your oil will have a high temperature high shear number 3.5 or greater. anything less will be catergorized as an ACEA A1 oil.

which motor oil are you using A1 or A3?

unless youre using a 30wt. oil from amsoil, redline, german castrol, bmw hp synthetic then your using a low viscosity fuel economy oil.

the "W" on the front of the bottle has nothing to do with the oils viscosity at low temps. if that were the case the oil would get thicker as the temperature increases. the "W" which stands for "winter" will indicate that an oil has passed a specific cold cranking performance test at a temp.: -35 for 0w, -30 for 5w, and -25 for 10w.