ToTriggerHappy

Alright I'm thinking that my fuel pressure regulator is bad but I want to be completely sure before I go and buy the part from Honda. The engine is a B18C1.

From a cold start early in the morning the engine will run perfect. I was told by my instructor at school that this is because the ECU is running in "Closed Loop" not reading any of the sensors. But after the car gets to operating temperature it will bog very badly! When I come to a complete stop and try to take off I have to play with the throttle and clutch at about 3K to get it to go (can not be good for my clutch). If I don't use this "technique" the car will bog and not want to go at all. It will bog then hesitate and bog again and hesitate until the it gets to about 2500 rpm's and then it will accelerate a little bit better. But still has an annoying bog like the engine is under a very large load.

I did a fuel pressure test today in class. Took the car around the block a few times to get it up to operating temperature. The stock specs for a fuel pressure regulator for a GS-R (according to AllData) is 38-46 psi with the vacuum line connected and 47-55 psi with the vacuum line disconnected. With my car at operating temperature the pressure was reading 32 psi with the vacuum line connected and 40 psi with the line disconnected. I did the pressure check again when the engine was cold and the pressure was in spec.

I'm almost positive it is the FPR. Just looking for y'all input.

Chris

ToTriggerHappy

up

raidacaipo

Specs on car? Stock fuel pressure regulator from GSR? You can fix this by using an Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator.

Stock fuel pump?

Its kind of odd when the stock fpr goes bad but I guess it happens

Also what kind of clutch are you using? Aftermarket or you haven't changed it?

kyosoeg6

iTrader: (7)

dam you just cant catch a break huh. i have a stock unit that i know is good and i also have a b+m that i know is good as well. hit me up if u want/need them

ToTriggerHappy

Yes it is the stock FPR. And the clutch is not aftermarket but OEM.

ToTriggerHappy

Ohh and the fuel pump is stock. Should I run a walboro or something else besides stock?

ToTriggerHappy

up to the top

raidacaipo

No.. keep everything stock at the moment. When was the last time you changed your clutch? are you sure its not the clutch?

ToTriggerHappy

the clutch is BRAND NEW with about 3k miles on it. it is deffinetly not the clutch. it has something to do with the fuel and spark thats my problem. timing belt is not off a tooth. i know this forsure.

ToTriggerHappy

Alright so i replaced the FPR and it is running alot better than before but it still isnt perfect. it wont want to die anymore when im leaving from a stop light.

The extremely bad bogging has stopped but it still feels like there is a load on the engine. I recently thought the TPS was out of adjustment. I pinned it out and used a multimeter and it was out of spec @ about .32 when it is supposed to be around .45 stock. I adjusted it to .45 and it helped a little bit.

Also my car will idle @ about 1900 rpm's at opperating temp.

I was driving my car tonight and the headlights will dim down at low rpm's and then when my car hits about 2800 rpm's the headlights would get brighter. Could this be an alternator issue??? Also, if it is an alternator issue, could a bad alternator make my engine run like it is under a load??

-Chris

ToTriggerHappy

bump

hatchet_honda

you really bought a new fpr from the dealership? thats like 100 bucks from them. shoulda juss got an adjustable one. all thats there is a spring..

ToTriggerHappy

just trying to get it running right and yes i did buy one from the dealership...

xpddc4

did u ever find out what was wrong with it? mine is having similar problems

crk112

-Is everything stock?
-Do you have a check engine light? Any DTC codes at all (they don't all trip the check engine light..)
-How many miles?
-Do you keep up on your maintenance schedule?


--Curtis

xpddc4

yes all stock just intake.
just have a ghost code that comes one once in a while p1399
120k
i got the car around 116k idk what they did but it really never ran good even when i bought it.

motegicivic

What year model engine in your car?

With the intake, is it a cheap one? Does it have IAT hooked up to it? Some cheap ones will not have all the correct vacuum hoses etc.

xpddc4

2001 gs auto b18?
it's a injen. it just has one hose.

dom2000si

injectors