STEV3-O

I know the first thing im gonna hear is "search B*tch" but this is completly different from other post's. I stated "Cali people" cause this has to do with the whole BAr issue. I currently am running a stock 1998 Jdm B16 and am looking for a new motor to get Bar certified. I drive the car every day of the week and plan on buying a bike as well. My choices are a B18 LS swap or a b18c1 Gsr swap. Now if i go the b18 LS route i will get the swap Bar'ed and then later on after buying a bike ,slap on a turbo running no more then about 8lbs of boost , My second shoice is the b18c1 swap. This is what im leaning more towards but the price is whats making me think twice. If i were to get this swap i would get skunk2 manifold, stage1 cams and just basic bolt on's once again get the motor Bar'ed before all mods. NOw my questioin is which would be easier to get Bar'ed stock wize and which would i be most happy in?I've never been in a Boosted car but i here its amazing , also is it difficult to maintain a turbo'ed motor? Let me know some feed back from people who have gone through the BAR test's. THanks and sorry for such a big paragraph

Luserkid

It doesnt matter what you do. Once you turbo the LS kiss your BAR good buy cause it dont mean **** no more (unless if you get a Greddy kit). If you go with the GSR and do some head work or any work kiss your bar goodbye. See the pattern?

To be on the safe side i would do a LS with a Greddy kit. That way they both could be BAR'd.

I think this thread would get locked anyway because its the same **** we seen all week.

anothersickhatch

personally, i would buy the B18c1 swap because: 1) i cant live without vtec
2) it would me MUCH more reliable than an ls turbo set-up. as for getting the motors passed by the B.A.R., dont even worry about. a stock gsr motor or a stock ls motor will pass easily.

my us b16 motor was just BAR approved with bolt-ons and a chipped ecu.

STEV3-O

i forgot to add this. My car is a 1995 and so i need to get a 1995 motor cause getting a newer swap would be to much of a pain to convert to obd II. also as far as the turbo and head work, i never mentioned head work. skunk2 manifold and stage one cams are now carb exempt so no worries their. Also for the turbo LS the thing is if i get In trouble i can just remove the turbo when its time to smog ALso i think its easier to find a 1995 ls swap then finding a 1995 GSr.

Quad-Damag

buy a 1998 B18B Bar it with the intake manifold and a built motor, then turbo it after u get ur bar, it won't pass smog with a custom kit, unless u tune it for smogable or buy a smog legel kit

Custom Kit
Hit up Spoolinperformance for a custom kit

Boost owns

a Turbo LS, will walk all over a Midly Moded GSR

Boost

STEV3-O

kingSfit

ls turbo

stockegsix

b18c1...

i got my b18c1 bar certified and its easier than you think

slammed_93_hatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It doesnt matter what you do. Once you turbo the LS kiss your BAR good buy cause it dont mean **** no more (unless if you get a Greddy kit). If you go with the GSR and do some head work or any work kiss your bar goodbye. See the pattern?

To be on the safe side i would do a LS with a Greddy kit. That way they both could be BAR'd.

I think this thread would get locked anyway because its the same **** we seen all week. </TD></TR></TABLE>

first part true, second part about the c1 and mods not so true, i have seen motor's with slightly higher CR something equvilant to skunk2 stage2 cams, PnP job, and it passes smog with flying color, just cause you make more HP doesn't mean your motor produces more bad stuff.

STEV3-O

yo slammed_93_hatch is your motor Bar'ed?just wondering since u state Bar Farm in your sig what motor did u get certified? also anyone in the Bay area know were i can get a good b18c1 or Ls swap preferably a 1995 for a good price and good service?

slammed_93_hatch

yes it is i have an LS motor, but stock for stock all motors are the same deficulty to get bar'd (its not hard to get any B series or H series motor to pass).

in the bay you might want to check out R crew racing i dunno there site though, search for user "supertiwnz" or "supertwins" he works there and the link to there site is in his sig

STEV3-O

thanks bro, i was thinking the whole h-series thing but i might cost more for the parts, and i would hate to cut the passenger side mount.

S@nt0s

go B18C1........then get a greddy kit or it! you are still LEGAL! si,ple as that!

longbeachpurplecivic

whats the bar test?? i dont know so dont talk ish

slammed_93_hatch

if you change the motor in your car in california to any other besides a direct replacement, in california you must go to a state REF. and have them check everything over (smog wise) then if you pass they put it into DMV that you have a different motor in there, and from then on when you smog comes up every two years you can just go to any smog center and have tested.

for almost any other question you have search for "BAR" or "state ref" topics they are numerous and just about EVERY thing that you could/want to know about the system

IgniteTeg

I voted for the Ls/turbo since thats what i'm going to do soon... Boost pwns u Also i'm wondering Drag III isn't legal in CA rite??? Just the damn greddy turbo kits???? Any other turbo kit legal in state of CA???? Damn CA too damn fukin strict

99blackcivicSi

I vote LS turbo they are very fun, and cheaper than a GSR turbo.

ps: sleepingeg6 more pics of girl in avatar WOW

eg686

isnt it true that the Greddy IC isnt BAR certified?

longbeachpurplecivic

ic.. i did search bar but nothing came up only bs topics.. thanks

longbeachpurplecivic

good stuff got it... lot of BS threads

slammed_93_hatch

well then you need to learn how to search, i have participated in about 20 threads. and spade and some others have threads from a year to 2 years when the whole processes came about describing it and stuff. but no harm i guess there is no real recent topic that has stated what the BAR/REFing processes is.

Happyman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anothersickhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">personally, i would buy the B18c1 swap because: 1) i cant live without vtec
2) it would me MUCH more reliable than an ls turbo set-up. as for getting the motors passed by the B.A.R., dont even worry about. a stock gsr motor or a stock ls motor will pass easily.

my us b16 motor was just BAR approved with bolt-ons and a chipped ecu. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you must have never been turbo'd if you can't live without vtec wait until you hit boost.

Damon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

first part true, second part about the c1 and mods not so true, i have seen motor's with slightly higher CR something equvilant to skunk2 stage2 cams, PnP job, and it passes smog with flying color, just cause you make more HP doesn't mean your motor produces more bad stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>

these parts dont affect compression ratio.

eg686

bump is it true that the Greddy IC is not legal in CA smog?

N20civicB18

i got a turbo b18b1, motor is stock and i built the turbo klit myself and it is hacked with junkyard parts and I ran 13.6 @ 105.7 in my 95 EX

I would say b18b1 turbo

Kyle