my_jdm

Okay Fellow Honda-tech members, I have a 92 Honda civic cx hatch with the infamous b16b CTR swap. Unfortunately After VTEC engages there's white smoke... ALOT of white smoke. Asked my cousins if it was blue they said just white.
-White is oil after combustion soo? Im stuck.
-Blue smoke is Oil burnt in combustion..

There is a leak where the head and block meet. But what gets me is the car drove perfectly fine for 6 hours upon purchase. No overheating. Also no smoke cruising until I get on it

What Im gonna get around to maybe would be a compression test?
Also, If it were a Headgasket I couldnt find Oem replacments online

turbomaniac

compression test for sure

dont worry about the gasket you can find aftermarket

my_jdm

Was Definately thinking that. Thanks

my_jdm

Just did a Compression test. Results are

#1 225 #2 230 #3 230 #4 230.

Throtlle all the way open, ecu fuse pulled and Dizzy disconected. Up next is a leak down test.

StayKrafty

Yeah those are good numbers for a compression test. Goodluck on the leak down test.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

What type of ECU do you have? Gray smoke from carbon or running rich is easy to confuse with white smoke. Chipped ECUs often run the car WAY rich because of a "one size fits all" tune.

Do you have a cat?

How often do you floor it?

Do you actually lose any oil?

my_jdm

Im running on a jdm P30 small box.. Iknow Iknow its not the correct ecu. But the car is straight piped so no cat. just a resonator.

Also the car was sitting 6 months prior to me owning it. Just got the car last week! I mean I was scared of the compresssion results but Im damn near happy now.

I get on it once awhile. Looks like alot of Carbon buildup on the pistons from when I took the spark plugs out. Thanks guys!

turbomaniac

the compression test is perfect.

white smoke after vtec engages is just unexplainable for me

turtlegrip

I would try running the right ECU (PCT) hmotorsonline is a great place to get one, imo. White smoke is questionable. You can always try cleaning that carbon off with seafoam or some other similar product, or open up the engine and start scrubbing. I know some people dont like seafoam but I run it every couple years and always get decent results (as far as cleaning out my cylinders and getting goo crap out of the block).

Good luck figuring it out!

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Seafoam? Run a OBD2 ECU? Idk if those are good tips....

I guess it's a JDM ECU....so it's similar to OBD1. And no....don't open any motors to scrub them of carbon that's going to build up again after driving for 20 seconds.

Y'all too concerned. Keep checking the oil level to see if/how fast you're losing oil. The smoke is probably just soot being blown out of the exhaust. Or...god forbid....a little oil burn OMGGGG.

turtlegrip

Why would you not recommend running the ECU meant for the motor? And the PCT is very similar to OBD1. I agree with the second part but when he says a lot of smoke I guess I would want to see a clip of how much. And for seafoam done properly and not often I have never had bad results, Ive only noticed it causing problems on engines that were on their last leg anyway. I am interested in your reasoning though, knowledge is power.

Without a cata the smoke isnt that suprising either imo

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Carbon can be cleaned off naturally by driving the car. If you have good driving habits and the car is running well, you shouldn't have excess carbon.

If you seafoam ALL of that carbon all at once, it has to go somewhere. Lots of people complain about issues after seafoam. From clogged ports to motors that wont idle right for a long time afterwards.

Go beat the crap out of the car. Or take a long highway trip. Or take it to a race track. All good ways to get rid of carbon from driving short trips at low RPM.

If you haven't driven the car hard in a while...OFCOURSE its going to shoot soot when you do finally floor it. I drive my TSX to/from work. If I drive it gently for a week or 2 and then floor it, theres a pretty good puff or white/grayish smoke trail. Same with my GF's Si daily driver. Our "fun" cars get floored all the time lol. So...they don't do that. But both S2000's (or any other car in the world) do make a little puff when you floor it just from richness and traces of oil.

Cars smoke for lots of reasons when you floor it. A majority of them being normal conditions. You're asking for a lot when you smash that pedal.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

As far as the stock B16B ECU goes; Don't you think it kind of sucks? VTEC @ 6500 RPM. 8700RPM rev limit? A JDM P73 or a tuneable...or even properly chipped ECU would be better. I'd use 5700RPM for VTEC and 9200 for rev limit.

I'd also use a 4.78 or 4.9FD. Then I'd go to a race track. Cleans out mad carbonz.

turtlegrip

The VTEC does get annoying (it is 6200), rev limit is 9000.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

The tach may be reading wrong. 8700 is rev limit on the stock ECU. You sure about 6200RPM VTEC? I remember 6500.

Either way....it sucks to come out of VTEC 1st-2nd and 2nd to 3rd. Either revving to 9200 would help...or shorter gear ratios....or lowered VTEC point.

I'm guessing they put VTEC way up there because of the cam size vs. Engine size. Oh...and so the CTR would be slower than the higher end ITR.

turtlegrip

I dont come out of VTEC in shifts if I hit limiter.

B16B (Type R)

VTEC
Found in:
1997–2000 JDM Civic Type R[EK9]JDM
Displacement: 1,595 cc (97.3 cu in)
Compression: 10.8:1
Bore: 81 mm (3.2 in)
Stroke: 77.4 mm (3.0 in)
Rod/Stroke ratio: 1.84:1
Rod Length: 142.42 mm (5.6 in)
Power: 185 hp (138 kW) @ 8200 rpm & 118 lb·ft (160 N·m) @ 7500 rpm
Redline: 8500 rpm
Rev-limit: 9000 rpm
Transmission:S4C With Helical LSD (4.4 final drive, dual-synchromesh on 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears)
VTEC engagement 6200 rpm
ECU code: PCT
ECU Socket Type: OBD-2A(1996-1998 models) / OBD-2B(1999-2000 models)

Note: This engine uses the same block as the '96 Spec JDM B18C Integra Type R, which is taller than the B16A block (by approx 17 mm), but with a crank the same stroke as the B16A. It uses longer rods to accommodate for this, which is why the Rod/Stroke ratio is higher than a standard B16.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Wikipedia? Cmon now. Anyone can post whatever they want. This guy seems to think it's 10k rpm

http://www.alex.clubcivic.ro/?page_id=930

turtlegrip

True. I have a B16B running on PCT. Its 9000 limiter and 6200 VTEC and I stay in VTEC between shifts.

BTW(edit) You are right about the limiter it would seem. Everything I could find said 9000 but isitaboat and forums say 8400 and that would make since according to my dyno chart. I just assumed the dyno wasnt very good (one at a CC) and my DX/EX/ITR clusters all read 9000. Seems bad that tach can be 600RPM off =(

my_jdm

Yeah I also Hate the around 6000 rpm engagement point. Im going to preform a leak down test and get back to you guys!. Also This car came out of Chicago so im pretty sure his driving habbits were rough(previous owner).