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B16A2 NASTY ACCELERATION :( help please!

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Old 10-06-2009, 07:55 PM
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Icon3 B16A2 NASTY ACCELERATION :( help please!

a little background: i just bought a 97 civic hatch with a b16a2[dc headers, runnin a gsr ecu:/] swap fifth day after i bought it i was on the freeway and downshifted to fourth and my throttle got stuck open. im pretty sure i got that fixed already[replaced it with another b16 throttle body]

the problem: today after i replaced the throttle body i turned the car on an revved it a bit and the revolutions would drop until it almost turned off but it would go back to normal idle. i pulled out of my driveway and tried accelerating and i noticed i had a hunting idle when i accelerated between
1.5k and 2.5k revolutions it would just stay there until i accelerate enough that it just pops out.

my thoughts:
the tps sensor?
MAF sensor or
IACV

its just a nasty, bumpy drive i dont know if im being clear enough but any and all input is appreciated thanks.
Old 10-11-2009, 04:42 PM
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Default Re: B16A2 NASTY ACCELERATION :( help please!

im having the same problem wish someone would reply.
Old 10-11-2009, 04:56 PM
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Default Re: B16A2 NASTY ACCELERATION :( help please!

try swapping the sensor on the throttle body with the original.
Old 10-11-2009, 05:21 PM
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Default Re: B16A2 NASTY ACCELERATION :( help please!

I am sure you meant MAP not MAF cause most honda and especially civics dont have MAF'S. First thing is first and that is understanding how it works. Both the tps and map sensor has three wires
1. 5v refrence that comes from the computer
2. ground also supplied by the computer
3. signal wire

When looking at either one the first thing you want to do is verify that you have a good ground and 5v. always use the negitave on the battery as a ground source cause if you use anything else and it is not grounded properly then the results are not accurate. take your red lead of the multimeter that I hope you have or I am just blowing smoke cause people expect to diagnois things with wish and dreams. sorry put your red lead on the 5v supply and black lead on negitive of battery and make sure that you have right around 5v. 4.9 and 5.1 are exceptable but anymore either way than there is a problem. once you know you have a good 5v on both sensors then move on to the ground and check it by first placing red lead on positive of battery and black lead on negitive of battery and taking a source voltage check then taking black lead off of battery and placing it on ground of sensor. if you see the same voltage you did when just checking the battery then you know that the ground is good but if you check the battery and it was 12.5 then go to the sensor and the voltage is only 11.5 then you know that there was a 1v voltage drop on the ground side and that needs to be corrected. after all that is done then you can procede to checking the signal wire. the tps is very easy to check just put red lead on signal wire and black lead on negitive of battery (of course I hope you know that you have to backprobe the connector cause none of this will work if it is unplugged from the sensor) Once you get it set up, very slowly open the throttle body and watch the voltage change. you want to make sure that you get a real good smooth transistion and no drop in signal. once you verify that then you can move on to the map sensor and this one has to be just like the tps except the vehicle has to be running and use the picture below to compare readings vs. readings took on a good vacuum gauge. good luck I will not check back cause I hate helping people that dont have tools and dont like to do diagnostics they just want to slap parts on untill it is fixed so if you are one of these people then take it to your local shop where you will find a proffesional.
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