saiko

I recently picked up a 96' civic w/a b16a motor from a friend. To say the least, I can't insure the car because the car can't pass BC's strick emission laws; However, I plan to use the car as a daily driver and need to find a way. I have a sneeking suspicision that the current computer is causing my troubles. (TYPE-R ECU). or the APEXi AFC controller is configured wrong; However, I've looked over all the settings and saw nothing out-o-da-ordinary.

Here are my car's emission reading at "idle".

MAX allowed vehicle reading avg reading Result
W/O Cat. (straight pipe)
HC 97 899 0 F
CO 0.58 8.15 0 F
W/Cat.
HC 97 799 0 F
CO 0.58 7.22 0 F
Note: running 5:1 89Octane/MethalHydrate.

I am baffled as to why my cat makes NO difference. The cat is only 1 month old; Lordco Universal Cat.

Why my friend never got the stock b16a ECU is beyond me, probably mis-communication w/the Japanese. Anyway, I see a lot of ECU's on ebay but am not sure what exact one I need. Can I use a DELSOL ECU? I know the motor I have is a Sec Gen b16a (170hp).

I will be checking my plugs tmrw to make sure all 4 cycl's are firing properly, but I doubt this cause the car runs fine; except at high speeds when the fuel cuts out; Usually shifting into 4th at full throttle. Looking at after market fuel pumps.

Thanks in adv.

JDMjdawg

what exactly is done to the car? Try using as much stock **** as possible. Is the car ob2 still or obd1, I'm assuming its gonna be ob1 if its a 2nd gen. motor. Is all of your smog equipment intact? o2 sensors good? charcoal canister? And whats up with the 89 octane mix?

saiko

The only mod's to this car are the TYPE-R ECU, and the APEXi AFC controller. Other than that, stock header, cam, etc. However; the check engine light is on all the time, figured that might have something to do w/the ECU aswell; after checking the O2 sensor everything was properly in tact. Does anyone have their Check engine light off w/the swap in place?

the 89 octane mix was for no reason, gas costs 104.9 per liter for 94; just a cheap bastard.

Ob1 Obd1? how can I tell? sorry for the newbie question; new to honda's myself.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Relic1

if your CEL is on there is no way you're going to pass emissions testing. They kick you right out if they see that around here.
find out what code is lighting up the CEL and let us know....

hoya_10fintec

I can't believe they even let you in with the CEL on..

your friend who sold you the car has the answer to your Q's..
check to see if your car's converted to OBD1 but I doubt it since you said it was an ITR ECU... your friend should know what code it is since he did the swap if u don't know how to check it.. or search..

stevel

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by saiko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I am baffled as to why my cat makes NO difference. The cat is only 1 month old; Lordco Universal Cat.

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BC's emissions don't sound that strict as far as the limits are. You have plenty of room to pass. The Type R ecu is your problem. Even if you didn't have a CEL you'd be running too rich. With the CEL you most likely are running off the default maps which dump a ton of fuel. You can burn out a brand new cat in about a week if you're running to rich. As far as what ecu to get I don't know what to tell you but to get a p28 with a stock Si program on the chip and a conversion harness. It's too bad 96 has obd2a otherwise you could use a 99-00 Si ecu, but they're obd2b. Tough call. First things first is to figure out the CEL. Then go from there.

s

saiko

Well, I've since been trying to get a CEL code, but I'm unable to find the blue connector; I did find however, naked brown and black wires ( No blue connector *anyone know what color their wires are?* ) I think I'm searching in the right place, under the glove; passenger kick panel, above the ECU.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stevel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As far as what ecu to get I don't know what to tell you but to get a p28 with a stock Si program on the chip and a conversion harness.
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Thanks for the suggestion; know where I can find these chip's? what about a stock DELSOL ECU? do you think that would work as well?

Finally, I found out that I'm not running a secondary O2 sensor? will this create problems?..

stevel

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by saiko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thanks for the suggestion; know where I can find these chip's? what about a stock DELSOL ECU? do you think that would work as well?

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hmmm. don't know what year del sol VTEC's were made. If a del sol VTEC was produced in 96 then that would be your best option. Good luck finding one though.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by saiko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Finally, I found out that I'm not running a secondary O2 sensor? will this create problems?..</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, that is definitely a problem. It will throw a code for no secondary O2. get that taken care of.

s

GRAVEDIGGER

what code for no sec 02, is it 65

Smith Wise

yup

saiko

After much running around I found a Civic Si ECU and got the conversion harness. After putting the new ECU in, the CEL error was 41 (Open or short in Primary O2 sensor heater circuit, defective Primary O2 sensor heater circuit).
So I got a new O2 sensor and replaced the old on; However, the check engine code remains the same?! is this because I must reset the CEL? if so how might I do that? I don't want to pay someone 67 dollars to do it for me.

Off to air care tmrw.
Fingers Crossed.

TurboBumblBee

to reset the ecu all you need to do is either 1 unplug it which you did when you put the new ecu into the car or 2 pull the fuse under the hood and let it reset.. i would pull the fuse let it sit for 5-10 usually put the fuse back in, start the car up, let it sit there and idle till it the idle turns to normal, turn the car off, and restart it.. check for any CEL and thats all..

pornstarSR

it it is a honda cat, or actually any aftermaket cat too, make sure you get that thing hot before the test, hondas are notorius for needing a hot cat to pass...

why i dont know, but my mechanic used to work at honda and would see it all the time...almost new cars wouldn't pass till they were driven for a bit....they would pass the 3000 rpm test(cali un enhanced zone) but the idle test it would fail.. ..the cat would cool off to quick...

try driving around the block a few times and warm that sucker up

just and idea