b16 ecu??? same as p28?
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b16 ecu??? same as p28?
is the stock b16 ecu the same as a p28 ecu? and if that, whats the difference btwn that and the p06, p 30 and the p72? is the p72 an integra ecu? im a lil confused?
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Re: b16 ecu??? same as p28? (em1gangsta)
no its not it for a single cam. you can chip it so it is a b16 if it obd1. I will chip your 92-95 ecu and make it for a b16.i can turn non vtec ecu to vtec
#3
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Re: b16 ecu??? same as p28? (em1gangsta)
P28- vtec sohc ecu, no knock sensor signal needed
P30- vtec dohc, looks for knock sonsor
P06- non vtec sohc
All are obd1, and with modification a non vtec ecu can be converted to vtec, not worth the troble IMO though
All ecu's are easily chipped and able to run basemaps to run different engine setups
P30- vtec dohc, looks for knock sonsor
P06- non vtec sohc
All are obd1, and with modification a non vtec ecu can be converted to vtec, not worth the troble IMO though
All ecu's are easily chipped and able to run basemaps to run different engine setups
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Re: b16 ecu??? same as p28? (Deetz)
so i should jst chip my b16 ecu and run a basemap thru that and convert it to odb1? lol i have a 2000 si.
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Re: b16 ecu??? same as p28? (em1gangsta)
or just get a p30? but i heard bad things about the p30. my homebois si ran pretty badly with a p30 lol. idk
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Re: b16 ecu??? same as p28? (em1gangsta)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by em1gangsta »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or just get a p30? but i heard bad things about the p30. my homebois si ran pretty badly with a p30 lol. idk</TD></TR></TABLE>
p30 is the del sol B16 ECU. (OBD1)
If your talking about the EM1 si, its the P2T you should be using. (OBD2)
And no, a p28 (stock) is not the same as a B16 ecu (P30, P2t)
p30 is the del sol B16 ECU. (OBD1)
If your talking about the EM1 si, its the P2T you should be using. (OBD2)
And no, a p28 (stock) is not the same as a B16 ecu (P30, P2t)
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Re: b16 ecu??? same as p28? (em1gangsta)
well some of my friends were saying i can still use the p28 even tho its for non vtec to vtec if i wanted to chip it cuz that one is the easiest to convert to odb1 and then i can chip it ? right?
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Re: b16 ecu??? same as p28? (em1gangsta)
well ok now i know that the p28 is the way to go if i wanna convert to odb1 and then i can chip it. also i know now that its the easiest way to chip my ecu lol...am i correct? just checking before i get a new ecu and odb2-1 harness
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a p28 is a single cam vtec ecu. I am running it on my b16 althou it is chipped with a b16a base map i can still run it on the p28 when i pull my jumper out. And if im not mistaken P2T ecu is obd2 and you cannot chip them i know you can send it off to jet and get it chipped thats about it.
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Re: (dr.garagetuner)
so what would be the best to use then? so should i find b16A ecu and chip that since its odb1? or can i still use the p28?
#12
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Re: (em1gangsta)
if you want to convert to OBD1 you will need the OBD2-OBD1 jumper harness and a chipped OBD1 ECU preferably P28(single cam V) with a b16 basemap.
If you are keeping it OBD2 you will need the P2T ECU which is the stock ecu for b16a2 out of a 99-00 Civic Si.
If you are keeping it OBD2 you will need the P2T ECU which is the stock ecu for b16a2 out of a 99-00 Civic Si.
#13
Re: (em1gangsta)
Ill give you a strait answer that you want... use a p28 ECU get it chipped to run your B16 and and goodies like no rev limit, no o2, VTEC engage (u choose) etc. Get you a jumper for it and call it a day. That is all.
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Re: (em1gangsta)
If all you have is the bullshit intake, header, exhaust, don't get anything. Stick with your P2T
Getting a chipped ECU is going to do nothing but waste gas unless you get it tuned.
Getting a chipped ECU is going to do nothing but waste gas unless you get it tuned.
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Re: (SH)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ill give you a strait answer that you want... use a p28 ECU get it chipped to run your B16 and and goodies like no rev limit, no o2, VTEC engage (u choose) etc. Get you a jumper for it and call it a day. That is all. </TD></TR></TABLE>
dear god please don't run no rev limiter and no O2.
no rev limiter only means that if you screw up a shift...ever... you get to replace major engine parts. One little oops is all it takes.
It's there for a reason, if you're bouncing off it on a regular basis you need to change your driving habits.
Also keep in mind that a revlimit is set to a certain point because the engine doesn't make power up there anyway. No point in reving it that high.
No O2 sensor, if you are highly tuned, plese run it that way. If it's a basemap, you're begging for engine damage.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If all you have is the bullshit intake, header, exhaust, don't get anything. Stick with your P2T
Getting a chipped ECU is going to do nothing but waste gas unless you get it tuned.</TD></TR></TABLE>
best advice in this entire thread.
unless you change cams, compression or add boost there is no real need for a chipped ECU. Also if untuned, you will likely loose power over the stock setup.
I read posts all the time, this person's chiped ECU ran my engine great, more power here and the car pulls smoother. More than likely the maps lowered the power in one place in the range which made other points in the range feel stronger.
Unless someone has back to back dyno proof, it's likly
butt dynos can't tell if one point increased or if everything else around it decreased.
If you really want to run a chipped ECU, get it tuned. You may only see a few hp but the engine will be much happier and it will run better. (mpg & power wise)
dear god please don't run no rev limiter and no O2.
no rev limiter only means that if you screw up a shift...ever... you get to replace major engine parts. One little oops is all it takes.
It's there for a reason, if you're bouncing off it on a regular basis you need to change your driving habits.
Also keep in mind that a revlimit is set to a certain point because the engine doesn't make power up there anyway. No point in reving it that high.
No O2 sensor, if you are highly tuned, plese run it that way. If it's a basemap, you're begging for engine damage.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If all you have is the bullshit intake, header, exhaust, don't get anything. Stick with your P2T
Getting a chipped ECU is going to do nothing but waste gas unless you get it tuned.</TD></TR></TABLE>
best advice in this entire thread.
unless you change cams, compression or add boost there is no real need for a chipped ECU. Also if untuned, you will likely loose power over the stock setup.
I read posts all the time, this person's chiped ECU ran my engine great, more power here and the car pulls smoother. More than likely the maps lowered the power in one place in the range which made other points in the range feel stronger.
Unless someone has back to back dyno proof, it's likly
butt dynos can't tell if one point increased or if everything else around it decreased.
If you really want to run a chipped ECU, get it tuned. You may only see a few hp but the engine will be much happier and it will run better. (mpg & power wise)
#17
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Re: (em1gangsta)
I need some help. I have a 96 ek. 1.6v motor. Stock ECU p2p. I bought a p06 ECU converted to vtec and with a basemap for b16v. It runs my car but vtec does not activate and check engine comes on. I ordered a single cam vtec basemap, replaced the b16v basemap and still, vtec not activating and check engine comes on. Could it be that I have to tune it to work in my single cam?
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