blackrag

my passenger side lock didn't work, so i decided to take off the door panel and take a little look-see. first i see the previous owner put that sound deadening stuff in the door. looks cool, idiot! haha

anyways, now to the problem..

the lock works when you use it manually, but doesn't work with the keyless entry and/or the lock switch from the drivers side door. what should i be looking for?

also, once i took my door off and started the car, my drivers side door wouldnt lock. (automatically) i could flip it locked, and press up to unlock and it worked, but when i pressed down... nothing..

i then used my keyless entry, that worked, and then the switch (drivers side) started working again


HELLPPPPP

blackrag

i forgot to ask..

could it be a fuse going out? or something else slowly going out?

anavrin351

fuses dont slowly "go out" they break the wire inside breaks. He did a shitty job on the sound detining, he may have got some on the leveres that movein and out. If its aftermarket, the actuater could have gone out, or some how the signal got lost. The actuators are 15 buck and youl find one anywhere that sells alarms. Also make sure it has power to it and all the connections are good

blackrag

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anavrin351 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fuses dont slowly "go out" they break the wire inside breaks. He did a shitty job on the sound detining, he may have got some on the leveres that movein and out. If its aftermarket, the actuater could have gone out, or some how the signal got lost. The actuators are 15 buck and youl find one anywhere that sells alarms. Also make sure it has power to it and all the connections are good</TD></TR></TABLE>

ahhh.. i see. how do i check if it has power to it and all the connections are good?

JDM_dreamer

use a multi meter. set it to 12v, and unplug the actuator. use a diagram to find which is the power and hook up the meter to that one. when you hit the switch to "lock" it should spike to 12v for a second, then back off. the unlock circuit would do the same thing.

you can do this same process for any momentary connection on your car. if all is correct, you will only find voltage when you hit the switch to lock/unlock. the only place i would assume you should have a constant voltage would be at the switch on the hot side.

i also could be wrong on how many volts you should get, cars run on 12v. but the system your checking could run on less, so double check with your service Manuel for exactly how much you should be getting.

blackrag

thanks a lot, ill try that.

one more, mega-noob question..

where is the actuator? i cant find it.

i think it'd be a lot easier without all this black crap all over the door.

is it inside the door? if so, where? thanks.

JDM_dreamer

it should be just inside the door. if you look behind where the latch is, there is going to be a rod coming off it, or the actuator. if you see a rod, just follow it to the actuator.

sorry i cant be of more help, ive never had to mess with mine. ive done it on other chassis for people, the basic system works the same in any car you will ever come across (almost) so, its just a matter of tracking it down.

also after market installed power locks its mounted different then OEM, yours all looks OEM so it shouldn't be a problem i would assume.

JDM_dreamer

[QUOTE=blackrag]




in that picture, on the right hand side there is 2 rods going to the area of the latch. follow those rods on the inside of the door, one is for the handle, other should go to the actuator.

hope this helps a little more.

blackrag

first, thanks a lot for all the help.

well, i followed the two rods and this is where it leads. (i had to stick my camera in there, since i don't know how to actually get in there. how do you? like.. if i was going to replace the window track.. how do i get behind that steel? (between the door)

JDM_dreamer

if you look at your pictures, there are bolts facing towards you. there should also be 2-3 bolts on the outside of the door(i cant go check my car right now, its coooooooold out)

removing those would let you slide the whole unit out to replace. also looking at your pictures i don't see any wires coming from what i think is the actuator(the black box on the lower portion) check a wiring diagram or your service manual and see where the wires enter. your system looks OEM, so everything would be clearly detailed in a repair manual.

it also looks like the window track might be in your way, if you cant snake it out from behind it, you may have to remove the glass, i would save that as a last resort though, as that sucks to do.

i would save trying to replace this for last. check all your electrical first, in general, electrical systems tend to fail before a mechanical unit does. not saying the actuator cant be bad, but the best way to trouble shoot is from easy to hard

checking wires and connections = easy

pulling out the unit and replacing it = hard.

JDM_dreamer

this is off a hatchback EG, but it should be about the same.

try to figure out what parts are what, as this page didnt have stuff listed very well.

if you have a servace book for you car, you should be able to use this drawing and your book to identify what is what inside there

JDM_dreamer

ok, taking another look at all of this, i think the actuator is the white unit on the bottem of your pictures, can you take any better pictures of it?

blackrag

thanks a lot for all the help. if it wasn't for you, i would have thrown the door off a bridge. hahaha.

here's a pretty good picture of it.


i went to take out the three screws and try to pull it whole thing out, and this is my luck. the last screw i try is completely stripped.




once i get it all unbolted, how do i slide it out? can i unhook the little rods?

this is getting more and more complicated.

this is supposable for 1999 civic si.



it looks like number 5 is the actuator. (you were right)

where should i go from here?

blackrag

i'll be the first to admit, i know little about cars (trying to learn) and even less about electrical issues... but.. while unplugging the actuator, i found this.. is this normal? i unplugged everything else and found it nowhere but this one plug.



it's like a light-brown goo. it's CAKED on. (i actually wiped a lot off, before i decided to take a picture) it's all in the plug-in and the plug.. i don't see how that'd be normal, but then again, i dunno..

is that a problem or normal?

graveltravel2

its normal. its greased down just like battery terminals to keep it from bieng corroded.

JDM_dreamer

yea, thats a grease they use on connections that can get exposed to the elements to prevent corrosion. i would start from that plug and test with the multi meter (my previous post) and work your way back.

JDM_dreamer

im sorry i totally missed your first reply.

for the stripped screw, try using a flat head or a Phillips that is bigger then that, and tapping it in with a hammer. if that doesn't work, your gonna need an easy-out (its a reverse drill bit, you put your gun on reverse and it drills in, once it cant go anymore, it pulls the screw out)

as for sliding it out, you SHOULD be able to, but you may have to remove other items along the way to fully remove it. you can disconnect the rods or w/e is needed, make sure you take lots of pics so you can remember how to re-assemble it.

also, make sure you don't bend the rods, if they get bent, you going to have a hell of a time getting everything working again.

JDM_dreamer

also, the latch (the part with the screws on the outside) and the actuator are 2 different units, you should be able to remove the actuator without removing the latch.