Everyones Hero

I have a D16Z6 and recently the car has started overheating. Fluid is being pushed out of the radiator and into the resivoir. I assume this is because I am getting headlift from my boosted Z6.

I have a set of ARP Headstuds for my motor that I want to install, but I don't want to pull the entire head because of time constraints.

-Can I replace them 1 by 1?
-If so do I torque them to 20, 65, and then 80? Or just go straight to 80?
-What are the washers for? Do they just go between the head and nut? Are they necessary? Do I HAVE to use more than 1 per stud or can I use 1 per stud?

I will be using 10w30 so they will be torqued to 80-85ft/lbs.

Thanks
-Nick

SOHCD16y8

Take them all out and then put them all in together and torque in increment like you had in the proper pattern. If it were me I would just replace the HG too with a cometic or new OEM since you know it has been contaminated with coolant.

Everyones Hero

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCD16y8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take them all out and then put them all in together and torque in increment like you had in the proper pattern. If it were me I would just replace the HG too with a cometic or new OEM since you know it has been contaminated with coolant.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with replacing the headgasket, but I am completely broke at the moment, nor do I want to mess with pulling the head and have to worry about screwing up my timing. In all honesty I've never taken apart a motor. (Yeah, I did my own turbo install from start to finsih, but I can't set the timing on a single cam. )

I already have the studs because I am working on building another Z6.

Anyone know what I need to do with those washers?

Everyones Hero

Bump for the morning guys.

Instead of just telling me can someone throw up a diagram or something?

I don't have the package and ARP's website is under construction.

darkcvc

If you have never taken apart the motor, then DO NOT DO THIS

The proper way to install these is to take off the head, the replace the headstuds AND the head gasket. Then you need to torgue the studs down as stated earlier, in the pattern...

you might be bale to do it another way...but we never do it any other way at my shop....

Everyones Hero

What do you do with the washers? Just put them between the head and the nut?

Marauder

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Everyones Hero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you do with the washers? Just put them between the head and the nut?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes

Everyones Hero

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Marauder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you.

SOHCD16y8

You also have to remember that it is a crush type gasket and when the head is loosened there is a chance in may not seal right. Im sure if you have installed the turbo you can handle pulling the head.

Hybrid96EK

Dude... No. You are trying to half *** something because you are low on cash. Life sucks. You have to pay to play. If you were that much in the hole, you shouldn't be messing with a boosted Z6 is the way I look at it. If you don't replace the headgasket, then you are wasting your time. Equally, you cannot replace the studs one by one. If the head DID indeed "lift", then you need to remove it and clean out the holes anyways. ANY coolant or oil in the holes will mess up the torque reading. Do it right, do it once. Otherwise, waste time and money and do it ten times.

You need to replace the headgasket
You need to do the studs correctly, in the correct order
I would highly reccomend using the ARP assembly lube and not the motor oil
I would also high reccomend you clean out the holes with compressed air and chase the threads prior to installing

Everyones Hero

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You need to replace the headgasket
You need to do the studs correctly, in the correct order
I would highly reccomend using the ARP assembly lube and not the motor oil
I would also high reccomend you clean out the holes with compressed air and chase the threads prior to installing</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think that's what I'm going to do. I just got my christmas bonus today so I'll probably do it one day over my christmas break.

I also talked to one of my friend's that knows a bit more than I do so he can help me reset the timing once I pull the head off.

BTW- At the time I boosted my car I wasn't low on cash. My mom moved out of state on me in the middle of the semester. I'm in college full time and pretty much on my own, meaning most of the money I'm making at my part time job is now going to more important things.

specv5150

I thought you couldnt even install these bitches without pulling the head. I was going to put some on my boosted Y5 and it looked impossible without pulling the head. I also asked on here since I had never installed any and I was told the same thing.

Chiovnidca

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Everyones Hero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a D16Z6 and recently the car has started overheating. Fluid is being pushed out of the radiator and into the resivoir. I assume this is because I am getting headlift from my boosted Z6.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
More likely just a blown hedgasket. How much boost you running? Make sure the head and deck surfaces are flat.

Everyones Hero

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">More likely just a blown hedgasket. How much boost you running? Make sure the head and deck surfaces are flat.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm only running 7 pounds.

Ordered a headgasket from Majestic Honda, that came in Wednesday. I'm writing down the specs for torqueing them down for both moly lube and 10w30 just in case I can't find any lube at the local places around here.

Still need to find the pattern for removing and installing the bolts, along with how to make sure the motor is set to TDC. I'll search for them in a bit.

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Everyones Hero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm only running 7 pounds.

Ordered a headgasket from Majestic Honda, that came in Wednesday. I'm writing down the specs for torqueing them down for both moly lube and 10w30 just in case I can't find any lube at the local places around here.

Still need to find the pattern for removing and installing the bolts, along with how to make sure the motor is set to TDC. I'll search for them in a bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Easy. When removing the head, work from the inside out...

4 3 1 2 5

like that. I can try to get you a picture from the helm if it will make you feel better. TDC Is easy. There is a mark on the cam gear, says "UP".. get that one facing up and line up the TDC mark on the crank pulley with the timing cover. Loosen the tensioner, pop the belt off. If you need more info, like a picture from the Helm, let me know. I'll be happy to help you out.


Modified by Hybrid93Eg at 9:34 PM 12/22/2005

Everyones Hero

Alright, I've done some searching.

4 8 9 5 1
3 7 10 6 2 is the bolt removal order

7 3 2 6 10
8 4 1 5 9 is the installation order

First they should be torqued to 15lbs into the block using 10w30 (handtight w/ moly lube)

1st- 20lbs
2nd- 40lbs
3rd- 80-85lbs 10w30 (70lbs moly lube)

Is that information correct?

Everyones Hero

Alright, I got everything done yesterday. It took us 7 hours, but we did it.

We pulled the car into the garage and pulled the spark plugs and downpipe off while the car was cooling down.

We took off the exhaust manifold and hung it up with a bungee cord so we didn't have to disconnect all of the oil lines.

Next we removed the valve cover and set the motor to TDC. We marked the cam and timing belt with some of that roll-on white-out so I knew it was going back into the same place.

We undid all of the bolts on the intake manifold and then took out all of the head bolts. We disconnect all of the sensors and I loosened up the timing belt. We took the timing belt off of the cam and pulled it tight with some zip ties.

I had to get under the car to undo that stupid mount that is connect to the intake manifold and some how we managed to get that bolt that is in the middle on the underside of the intake manifold. We didn't get that one back on during reinstallation.

Next we vacuumed out all of the pistons and bolt holes. Then we blew them out with the air compressor and I wiped off the pistons with some dry terry cloths. My friend's dad told us to use a rag to wipe some WD-40 on the piston walls to help with the coolant because it gets sticky.

We headed off to Taco Bell for 2 number 2s, then went back to work chasing the threads w/ a 10x1.25mm tap. We sprayed the tap w/ WD-40 after every hole to clean it and lubricate it.

Next we moved onto the stud installation. I sprayed the holes out with the air compressor again. I lubricated the threads of all of the bolts w/ 10w30 since there are no places around here that sell molly lube. We put them in hand tight and then used the double nut methold to torque them to 15ft/lbs. We put one wrench on the stud, put a nut on up-side-down and then put another nut on correctly.

After all of the studs were done we put on the headgasket (I guess the gasket is supposed to go on first.) Then we put the head back on and I torqued it down. First to 20, then to 40, 60, and finally 75 (75 is the most my friend's wrench went up to, and it was as high as I felt comfortable doing.)

After all of that it was just re-assembly. Went pretty easy. Car started right back up, but threw a code and was idling funny. Turns out I had missed one injector clip. That fixed that problem.

After that was fixed we bled and filled the coolant.

Went for a ride and I kept blowing a charge pipe, so I replaced the coupler.

Cars been running good so far after the oil change. I've been beating the **** out of it and it hasn't overheated and it's pulling like it used to.

Thanks to all that helped me out on this, especially Hybrid93Eg, who spent a good amount of his own personal time to walk me through setting the timing and everything.

Chiovnidca

Did you check the surfaces with a straight edge?

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you check the surfaces with a straight edge?</TD></TR></TABLE>

He should have. I explained how to do it and sent him several pages from the Helm manual to help him out.

Everyones Hero

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you check the surfaces with a straight edge?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I tried. I used one of those L shaped measuring things. Was the only thing we had handy. I didn't really know what to look for.

When I get some more money put away and time comes around I'll have them checked (more than likely only the head will be checked.)

And I did keep the head on it's side to prevent warpage. There was a lot of oil that drained out of it, but that's what our white operating tables were for.

It was kinda like doing surgery. I'd be doing something, ask for a tool, and my friend would grab it from the top of one of the big roll-around tool boxes with the white sheet and he'd put all the parts I took off onto the other one we had. There was oil and anti-freeze everywhere.

It's taken 24 hours of heavy abuse and it's still holding strong. I'm going to check all of the nuts midway through the week since that's the earliest I'll be able to make it to my friend's since I don't have a torque wrench.