DSMAddicted

Guys,
I just picked up trailing arms, rotors, calipers etc from a donor Integra LS to replace the drums in my '93 Hatch with.

What modifications do you suggest I make to the new brake assemblies while they're out before I put them on the car? I am thinking things like bushings etc.

Let me know your thoughts, thanks!

-Walter

kaiba

Trailarm bushing it's a must. Do it once do it right.

chochi vtec

yeah i did mine and the ride feel more better..but if yu gonna do it do it right like kaiba said...

EJ8_Man

Stainless steel braided brake lines feel great. I have a set of rear rotors, Brand new, for sale in my signature for sale thread if you're in the market for some.

DSMAddicted

Thanks for the advice guys.
I was already looking up SS lines. What brand did you go with, EJ8_Man?

What brand/type of trailing arm bushings are you guys running?

-Walter

Ron454321

OEM bushings unless you don't want a smooth ride.

Ronnoc74

If I were you I would definitely go ahead and replace the pads (and rotors too if you have the money) if you havent done so already. I didn't do this when I did my rear disc swap and not even 3 weeks after I finally got my car on the road, my rears started grinding a little. I made a mental note to buy new pads and then just a few days later at work (I'm a pizza delivery driver), one of my rear calipers started to leak from the piston inside being over extended. Since my job relies on my car, I couldn't just go home and fix it because it was right in the middle of my shift. Long story short, lost all my brake fluid, couldn't hardly stop at all, made a lot in tips that night since I had no means of slowing down, bought a new caliper, pads and rotors all around. Found out that I have '90 LS front hubs (Finally! one thing the PO did that was for the better of the car!) so I have '90 LS brakes all around In the end I ended up spending about 350 something for everything that night.
Granted yours may be in better condition than mine, its just something to think about so you don't have to go through the same thing

DSMAddicted

Good info guys, looks like I'll be doing the bushings and pads for sure.
I'll take a good look at the rotors and try to turn them first, otherwise I'll just get new ones too.
I agree with the motto of doing it right the 1st time.

Which brand bushings would you guys recommend?
Energy Suspension's catalogue is rather confusing.

Thank you,

-Walter

Dekorum

Don't mean to thread jack, but where can you order OEM bushings for rear trailing arms? I'm talking about for 92-95 civic, in the catalog on Majesty they only sell the entire trailing arm.

The Hire

I used the hard race bushings and goodrich braided lines, brembo fluid, new gsr calipers, new kvr rotors, and hawk hp+ pads. Also had to change e-brake cable.

My front brakes got an increased upgrade over the rear. New type-r calipers and cf pads.

Down the road you will want to upgrade prop valve and master cylinder. But it's not critical.

ThatRicerDaniel

I would stay away from the energy suspension if this is a daily driver. I would go to OEM or if energy suspension offers something OEM comparable.

rrd5011

I'm literally doing the conversion myself in a 95 ex. The ex comes with a 7/8 MC so I am hoping that I will be satisfied with the pedal feel. Other than that I did: 40/40 prop valve, goodridge SS brake lines, Brembo blanks all around, axxis ultimate pads all around, new trailing arm bushings(OEM) part number 52385-S21-003. I would advise you to look to Majestic Honda for oem parts as well. They are very competitive!

Dekorum

How did you find that part number?

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...REAR+LOWER+ARM

Does not show that you can buy just the trailing arm bushing itself. Looking up that part number shows it is a trailing arm bushing but it doesn't say what car it is for.
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...5-S21-003.html

EGgmannate81

Make sure you use your civic front arms. I forget what they are called but they are at the very front of the trailing arm. (toward the front of the car) Some of these lil dudes are different lengths and if you use the integra ones your toe will be way off. I think Integra ones are shorter than the civic or visa versa. Just a thought.

kristo

^Compensator arms aka rear toe arms.

EGgmannate81

Thank you kind Sir!

Bartman201

you also need a 40/40 proportioning valve.

DSMAddicted

All good, I need this info as well if I decide to go OEM.

So ITR calipers mount on the GSR/LS caliper brackets (because I already have GSR/LS front brakes)? Are they just bigger calipers or does the rotor need to be changed as well? I'd like to keep using my 14" HX wheels, that's why I am curious.

40/40 prop valve in the mail, currently deciding on which MC to get, but will definitely upgrade it too.

Thanks for the input. Why is this? I assume due to excessive vibration?

Indeed... I get all my OEM stuff from there. Thanks for the P/N, if I decide to go OEM it will come handy!

Good looking out, I'll make sure I pick those up with the sway bars.

Regards,

-Walter

The Hire

My mechanic had to mod the front brackets to get the ITR calipers to fit. Exactly how I'm not sure, but if I remember correctly it was pretty simple. The KVR rotors on the front were ordered to ITR specs then re-drilled to 4x100.
Also the stock EL turtle rims won't fit over the front calipers anymore. So I have to run my motegi rims in the winter now.

Atomic1

Rear trailing arm bushings are sold separately if you search for the part number http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/produ...s_id=527117040

P/N 52385-SR3-000

Obviously you will want to verify this one works with your particular year. Look for Export Service Bulletin 00-006

Dekorum

Thank you. So 52385-SR3-000 is the part number that is prone to failing and was changed for part number 52385-S21-003. I've been experiencing that rear clunking noise for at least 3 years. I hope it didn't mess up anything else leaving it unattended to for so long.

Does anyone know if you MUST take off the rear trailing arm completely (so you have to bleed the brakes) in order to use an extracting tool on the bushing?

Atomic1

If you have the $150 "mini press" tool, then no you dont need to take the whole arm off. You'd just have to remove the LCA to RTA bolt to drop the RTA down. I hope its obvious, but the job can be a real challenge due to seized bolts. I highly recommend doing everything you can to not have to unbolt the front end of the RTA because all the bolts there are a huge PITA because they're held with captive nuts. If you have a seized bolt and have to cut/break the head, then you're talking about cutting into your frame to get at the nut....aka, bad times.

To add to the pain, the LCA bolts are infamous for seizing to the bushings, but at least they're not captive....though it seems that on such an old car, if you havent touched the LCA's in awhile you'll probably end up having to replace the LCA bushings (or just get a new LCA) because you have to torch the bolts out.