jcpot88

Ok background on the car it's a 98 ex coupe d15b vtec-e(3 stage vtec) swap with hx trans and ex ecu. I did my swap about a week ago. I had many cel codes and was down to 1 left for a tps low input. So I hooked my power probe up to the tps to see what my readings were showed nothing on sensor but had readings on the harness. When I was testing it I accidentally hit the power on the power probe volts went to 12. I've checked every fuse in the car replaced pump pressure regulator new tps ecu. I have spark at the plugs power at the injector clips. I have fuel pressure not sure on how much yet gotta wait for AutoZone to open to get a fuel pressure tester and compression tester. When the car cut off while testing the tps basically my whole intake filled with fuel and had fuel flooding out of my intake filter. I'm just completely stumped right before the engine shut off I heard a loud pop which I'm sure was from it hydrolocking. Please someone give me some ideas.

jcpot88

So just checked for injector pulses I have pulses an swapped in known good injectors. When I did that the car acted like it wanted to start was bein real puffy and acting like it had a rough idle then as soon as you let go of the key it would **** right back off.

jcpot88

Finally was able to pull codes showing a p0122 tps a circuit low input and code p1166 a/f sensor heater circuit. Tryin to give any info I can

spoolymcgee

possibly you bent a rod. 8/10 if your intake fills up with gas.. maybe wait it out an see what happens tomorrow's a new day. Replace the air filter doe. leave it sit.

jcpot88

A rod or a valve? Not trying to question you or anything just trying to make sure I understand is all. And yea gettin a new filter in the morning. The gas won't ruin my intake will it? I have a j's racing c/f intake on it right now.

TomCat39

I don't remember off the top of my head if the vtec-e solenoid is engaged or disengaged by default basically when vtec-e isn't hooked up is it running in 12 or 16 valve mode?

The other part is did you hook up the P28 vtec harness to the proper vtec solenoid?

Either of these would be major stumbling blocks. You need to find out if you need to have vtec-e solenoid hardwired or off to be running regular 16 valve mode. Then you also need to make sure your ECU is triggering the vtec solenoid, not the vtec-e solenoid.

Flooding the engine can damage the cylinder walls if you keep trying to run it. It's best to pull the plugs and let it evaporate overnight after a bit of cranking and no start.

jcpot88

Vtec-e is ran like this. Runs 12v to designated rpm then first solenoid engages and kicks to 16v then the second solenoid will hit engaging actual vtec. I've been running the y5 solenoid on a y8 ecu for the last week or so with no problems. Trying to find the basemap on the actual vtec engagement of the 3rd stage so I can run an apexi vafc on the that stage an set it identical to that map. I know that's not the ideal way to set it up but the p2j ecu I found was an auto obd2b not manual a like it was advertised. There was no problems runnin of the p2p ecu till I tried to test the tos sensor today. I tested it heard a pop and the car shut off so I hooked up ny Solus to it to see what was goin on showed there was no codes at all. While I was looking for codes i smelt gas and looked in my bay and saw a nasty looking fuel coming out of the intake filter so shut it off went an got a new tps sensor. Changed the fuel pressure regulator unpluggedbdizzy an pulled the fuse for the fuel pump. I then pulled my plugs an turned it over to blow all the fuel out and went to bed when I woke up about 9 hours later I went and bought new plugs 3 sets of them and put the first set in then hooked every thing up tried to start it and nothing. So put in a diff fuel pump and changed the injectors and fuel rail. Tested for a pulse on #4 injector clip and it tried to start. When it tried to start sounded like a horrible misfire so stopped on the engine and tried to consult other people who might have other ideas. The motor is still under warranty thankfully.

TomCat39

If you could break up your posts into paragraphs it will be much easier to read and follow.

The pop you heard, did it sound like an electrical pop like a zap type pop? Or was it like a metal rap type pop sound? Like a wooden spoon slapped against the block sorta sound?

I don't see how messing with the TPS would throw mechanical timing out so that the valves come in contact with the pistons to cause bent valves? Even though the symptom of fuel in the Intake is a possible indication of just that coupled with a pop sound.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I wonder if you somehow managed to drop a valve.

And stop trying to patchwork a working ECU. Locate the correct P2J and call it a day. And don't tell me you can't.

tony_2018

Distributor installed correctly, spark plug wires installed correctly, is timing dead on? If you're getting fuel than you need to move on to the next thing on the list that is required for a car to startup and run.

jcpot88

I'm trying to find a p2j been looking for a while now. But after replacing the whole fuel system last night I went this morning and it started fine. Idled rough for a while but is now runnin fine just a bit rich.

TomCat39

Sounds to me like your long term issue is going to be cylinder wash related, a much more expensive issue to fix.

spoolymcgee

cant he get that magic oil stuff to take care of that? Idk i never used it myself, i dont know if it would make a bigger problem or fix it..

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

MMO to take care of the car running the wrong ECU? Last time I checked HMO still sold those.

jcpot88

Hmo does have them just got them in. Gonna order it on Thursday when I get paid again.

jcpot88

What do I do to fix cylinder wash the right way? I've never even heard of it.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Stop flooding it with gasoline. Change the oil now! It's probably the consistency of ink.

jcpot88

Changed the oil as soon as it was able to actually start.

Former User