4runneradam

Please help. I have a 95 Civic with the vtec. All of the sudden it died while driving. Cranks but wont fire.

Sprayed starter fluid in TB, diddnt fire

Checked for spark with 2 different inline spark testers. No spark.

Main relay clicks like it should

Cap and rotor appear to be in good condition. Same with igniter/coil

Checked for voltage at the wire harness going into distributor. Got voltage at the 2 wire plug, but nothing at the multi wire plug.

Checked fuses in all fuse boxes. All checked OK. In the ABS fuse box the "motor verification" fuse wasn't getting any power to the circuit at any point, but I assume that is something to do with the ABS and nothing to do with anything else. Correct?

Jumpered the dangling wire connector by the ECU to look for DTC's. SRS and ABS lights flash steadily, check engine light lights up solid, but doesn't flash or go out. I'm assuming that means I have no codes present. Correct?


What's next to check? Coil? I dont think I can check the igniter very easily. Should I check the main relay even though it clicks?

Please help. I dont want to just throw expensive parts at the car. Cant afford that.

tietze

You can check the coil with an ohmmeter..
disconnect wires to coil, should be....
.6 to .8 ohm from A to B
13,200 to 19,800 ohm from A to secondary winding, (spark plug output)

You can check input to igniter..
disconnect all 4 wires, be sure none are touching chassis ground, then turn on ignition switch.
should be battery voltage between BLK/YEL and ground, if not, ignition switch
should be batt volts between BLU/WHT and gnd, if not ,coil.

if coil ohms good and voltages are present, try ignitor first.

good luck


Modified by tietze at 7:25 PM 12/9/2006

deadline

check all grounds

ventturei27

check all the ground and make sure the harness isnt faryed or broken anywhere

s_vares

You may have broke your timing belt.
Take off dist. cap, turn over and see if rotor spins while cranking.

4runneradam

Rotor spins

scivi92

im having same problem with my 92 civic vtec. have you got to the bottom of this?

instructor74

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tietze &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can check the coil with an ohmmeter..
disconnect wires to coil, should be....
.6 to .8 ohm from A to B
13,200 to 19,800 ohm from A to secondary winding, (spark plug output)

You can check input to igniter..
disconnect all 4 wires, be sure none are touching chassis ground, then turn on ignition switch.
should be battery voltage between BLK/YEL and ground, if not, ignition switch
should be batt volts between BLU/WHT and gnd, if not ,coil.

if coil ohms good and voltages are present, try ignitor first.


good luck


Modified by tietze at 7:25 PM 12/9/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please do this the problem will be solved it is more then likely a bad coil but to test it all is less then 10 mins of work. Replace the bad part and you will be good to go

Syndacate

Why do I think

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scivi92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im having same problem with my 92 civic vtec. have you got to the bottom of this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

and

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4runneradam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rotor spins</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are the same person?

In any event, change out your rotor, expletive the whole "appears to be good" bullshit.

Try a new rotor 'n cap, and if that doesn't work, try somebody else's distributor (temporarily).

scivi92

no not the same person, but just curious about this procedure it says should be voltage between BLK/YEL and ground, if not, ignition switch. if the ignition switch was bad would it crank at all? and also the BACKUP fuse underhood was blown replaced it to no avail

scivi92

i did the checks the coil resistances are fine, no voltage between WHT/BLU wire and ground. so i think i need a new igniter unit

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scivi92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no not the same person, but just curious about this procedure it says should be voltage between BLK/YEL and ground, if not, ignition switch. if the ignition switch was bad would it crank at all? and also the BACKUP fuse underhood was blown replaced it to no avail</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, not the same person, but joins 11 days after you post and 10 days after your last post to post his first post in your topic with the same way of inadequately describing his car ("9x civic vtec") which btw nobody describes their car as. It's got a trim on it, EX, Si, whatever, describe it using that, it's easier for people, "92 or '95 civic VTEC" can mean you have a K20 in there...

I have a hard time swallowing that, but whatever.

As for your problem, it really sounds like something obvious but I don't know color codes of wires off-hand.

tietze

quote:::if the ignition switch was bad would it crank at all?


The ignition switch has several outputs, one of which is power to the coil.

You should have 12v at the blk/yel at the coil, with the key in "on" position. (disconnect all 4 wires from ignitor, be sure none are touching chassis ground)

You should have 12v at the wht/blu,(out of coil), with the key in "on" position. (ignitor disconnected).

Battery&gt;&gt;&gt;F41&gt;&gt;F39&gt;&gt;wht/blk wire&gt;&gt;wht wire&gt;&gt;ign switch&gt;&gt;blk/yel wire&gt;&gt;coil(A)&gt;&gt;wht/blu wire&gt;&gt;ignitor

scivi92

checked voltages at BLK/YEL wire and BLU/WHT wire both good. resistances on coil good. took igniter to auto parts store to have it tested and it checked out ok. this is really stumping me

scivi92