Spoon_EJ

ive searched and searched and searched, and have not found anything im experiencing. car is a 94 civic dx, man trans, d16y5 (I thought it was a y8 but it isn't...) within the last couple weeks ive installed a cai short ram, and a p28 ecu.

ecu is out of a auto trans, haven't had time to convert. (19 code)

ive had a rough idle for the last week, between working, browsing forums, and taking care of my newborn son, its hard to do a lor of browsing.

today, while driving home from work, I stopped at a stop sign, took off and noticed the car sputtered at lower rpm. seemed to clear up after I hit around 3000 rpm. well, it got worse. affected my idle horribly. it has new ngk iridium plugs, accel wires, BRAND NEW cap and rotor, dizzy was replaced around 10,000 miles ago.

im getting fuel and plenty of spark. driving 15 miles I went from nearly half a tank to a quarter. give or take a LITTLE.

vtec stopped working, use to pull HARD but threw a 22 code.

I pulled plugs, cleaned them, cleaned my iacv. plugs kinda smelt like bad gas. no smoke, no water in oil and vise versa.

I pulled plug wires while car was running and 2,3,4 had no effect, but I could see and hear spark. #1 killed the car.

im at a complete loss at this point. any help would be greatly appreciated.

Spoon_EJ

Update: I changed the ecu back to stock, did not fix, cleaned and adjusted plugs, made a gasket for the iacv and vtec solenoid because it was leaking oil. Recharged my battery because it started to die, Recharged the k&n filter because it was starting to get dirty, replaced ignition module and coil pack in dizzy.

Car now starts and runs but like crap. It's almost like it has bad gas. I have it idled up so it will stay running. If I punch the throttle toothed floor it'll spit and sputtered and slowly raise.

Oh and it has an entire can of seafoam in the tank with about 6 gallons of gas.

I'm now waiting to see if it is in fact bad gas. Looks like I'll work this out myself and post in case anyone else has the same problem.....

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I see no mention of timing. Check your mechanical and ignition timing. You say that you changed the ECU to stock, but did you use an EX ECU, or an HX? There's a difference.

TomCat39

Also have you pulled the spark plugs to see if maybe they fouled? I've heard the seafoam is just about guaranteed to foul them so you will need to swap them out anyway soon.

Maybe the auto ecu ran it rich enough to dry foul the plugs?

If the plugs look fine, maybe use an HEI plug tester and see if your wires are still good. You've already ruled out the coil and ignitor by the looks.

Also not really sure how it would run if the O2 sensor was completey dead. Probably not so well and could be what caused the plugs to foul in the first place.

Spoon_EJ

Sorry, I checked mechanical timing and its dead on. Ignition timing I played by ear with it idled up and its smooth. The ecu was a p28. My stock ecu is a p06.

This morning I cranked on it and pulled the plugs, 2,3,4 were soaked in gas, #1 was fouled black. I'm thinking about going and getting just regular ngk plugs after this is all said and done. Wires are fairly new, they're the accel 8mm thundersport.

I have an o2 sensor from my b7 I can try, I have the stock ecu in right now and I'm throwing no cel. The only cel I had was the auto trans lock up(19). I also did a compression test and that ranged from 140 to around 160 all the way across.

Spoon_EJ

Oh and a side note, I do have a sound system in the car, when I noticed the problem, it was after a song with a lot of bass just got done playing. Anyone think the alternator could be causing an issue? Thanks.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

So you went from the wrong ECU, to definitely the wrong ECU. First off, you need to sit down and make 100% sure that you have a complete D16Y5, and not a Frankenstein motor.

Spoon_EJ

Car is a 94 civic DX! ecu that came with the car is a p06.... I've had the engine in the car for damn near a year with absolutely no problems. I RECENTLY bought a p28 to have the ability to run vtec. Ran great for a week. Then what I'm thinking Is the solenoid went bad because I sprung a leak UNDER the solenoid. The problem I'm having now, I HIGHLY DOUBT has anything to do with either one of my ecu's.....

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

It doesn't matter what trim your car is. The D16Y5 is not the stock motor for a 5G DX, nor is a D16Y8. An ECU doesn't magically give you VTEC. While we're going down the list, pulling plug wires while the car is running is a great way to fry coils. There seem to be a lot of things you don't know about Honda motors. If you aren't going to listen to the people who know a LOT more about these cars than you do, why bother asking in the first place? I was trying to help you in a more targetted, simplified way, but I guess you're keen on doing things the hard way. You'll need a paperclip, a compression tester, 12mm socket, ratchet, metal brush, and your eyeballs. You have homework.

List any CELs that your car is throwing.
Run a compression test, post the numbers (no, "it's fine" is not adequate)
Check and clean all of your grounds.
Double check your block stamp.
Find your head stamp, and post it.

Spoon_EJ

I did a compression test, like I said before, the lowest was 140 the other three were near 160. The car came with a d15b7, as stated, the engine I have is a d16y5 out of a 97 hx. Vtec-e. I know this, I didn't feel like trying to do a strenuous conversion, so yes, I put a p28 in it. Ran three wires for vtec, And by golly it worked. I've cleaned grounds. I know how to pull codes, how do you think I gave you code numbers in previous comments? Look, I'm not trying to be an ***, but I know a thing or two, and never have I once blown a coil. Everyone's help is appreciated, but I'm now beginning to talk in circles. Unless this shitty app I was forced to download isn't working properly and not posting what I'm saying....

TomCat39

The problem boils down to the ecu maps. not sure what you know about ecu maps but the P28 is gonna pump WAAAAY more fuel ESPECIALLY in vtec mode than the motor want. Your motor he just stated is vtec-e which means vtec economy or lean burn. the P28 is a D16Z6 wild cam performance vtec setup. So once vtec kicks in it pumps **** loads of fuel in and the motor on the other hand is trying to run lean, more air less fuel. That's why the plugs are fouled and fuel soaked.

You can't just run any ecu you want. Each ECU is tuned to a motor and has it's specific base map. Just cuz the vtec-e kicks in doesn't mean that the right amount of fuel is gonna be pumped.

The other damaging thing about how your running it is that the fuel is gonna wash the oil off the cylinders and you are gonna have excess wear on your rings and cylinder walls. Basically shorten the life of the motor pretty fast.

Your problem really is the ECU, it won't maintain the proper fuel mixture.

You probably got away with the P06 ecu just because vtec never kicked in so it ran in normal mode mostly like a the B7 would. The ecu can adjust slightly so it could bring up the fuel for the displacement difference. But once you started running vtec with the p28, the motor wants less, computer dumps way more, plugs foul and yer sunk.

At the bare minimum. keep the P06, no vtec, get the proper NGK plugs, put fresh plugs in and you can prolly skate by no one the wiser.

You best bet is find the D16Y5 vtec-e ecu so you get the proper economy and fuel map.

Spoon_EJ

I was thinking about that when I realized I had a y5 and not the y8. From what I've read, the p28 will run a y8, but not to its full potential. So I'm going to end up with a z6 head, and run my p28. Just so I don't have to deal with an obd2 engine in an obd1 car. Or drop a z6 in the car and sell the y5.

I ran the p06 on the y5 for around a year, and had no problem what so ever. A little bit of an oil leak but not damaging. I can redo the compression test when I do back to the shop, and post pictures to prove compression is still top notch. And ill post pictures of all of my block stamps and such if they are still desired. And like I said, I'm not trying be an ***, but I too know my way around a car, and this is starting to stump me. And from other posts I've read, this issue tends to stump a lot of people. There are numerous unanswered threads out there on Google, h-t, cc, ect.

TomCat39

I gave you the answer, you fouled your plugs when putting in vtec on a vtec-e motor. Fuel doesn't burn and it carbon fouls them. Once fouled it doesn't run well if at all and new plugs are required. You don't fix what causes the fouling, you just foul the next ones.

I even explained why you got away with the P06 D15B7 ECU on the motor. The ECU can and does make adjustments but can only adjust so far. It can't super lean out when it's map is for performance.

Spoon_EJ

Thanks buddy, I appreciate your time, help, and input. It ended up being my NEW accel wires. I know you mentioned that so I bought another set today. I threw a factory set on and she purrs like a kitten. Does h-t do rep? I'll throw you some.