Glades Ghost

My civic starting hesitating a bit when I gave her throttle, then she bucked her and there, not long after it would stall at idle, warm cold or in between. I changed plugs, wires cap, rotor, fuel filter and air filter. Ran great for a few days then the symptoms came right back. I've had several opinions offered and I'm really not fond of spending money on parts that don't need to be replaced.

Could it be my O2 sensor? and if it is do I need to 'rent' a special socket to replace it?

I did search and hunt through the forums for an hour before posting, and also found it 'could' but probably is not my IACV.

I was told it may be my fuel pump, but I hear it consistently when turning the ignition switch to II position..

One person ventured it may be my map sensor, this person also suggested I not disconnect my battery and reset my ECU after my above mentioned tune up..

I truly appreciate your help and expertise.

fonkernuckle

iTrader: (5)

Did you get a cel for o2 sensor? or any cel's? I've had 02 sensors go bad but my car still ran ok, I've had no experience with bad map sensor yet but how do you trouble shoot a fuel pump that works at times and is going bad? I would get a fuel pump from H-T marketplace for a few bucks and replace it. Its a given that no one likes to spend money unnecesarily.

Glades Ghost

CEL only cam on once when it stalled idling in neutral a few weeks ago, I'll pull the code tomorrow evening.

Former User

Definitely pull the code.

Is the current problem only the low idle or is there still hesitation and bucking with throttle?

If you think the problem is the O2 sensor, then unplug it to see whether the problem goes away.

I think you should also test the coil and have the igniter unit tested by an auto parts store.

Glades Ghost

The bucking still happens, but it has reduced in duration(but not frequency). Conversely the stalling is happening more often than before.

skuded

do yourself a favor and take it to a reputable shop and pay 80-100 bucks to have it diagnosed, you will double your money just in putting a decent distributor in it, and if you buy a good o2 sensor and it doenst fix it your out just as much as the diag would cost you. it would give you ease of mind, and also if their diagnosis doesnt fix it, then take it back if they cant figure it out then have them refund you money

Former User

^At this point, why pay a shop if pulling the CEL codes, unplugging the O2 sensor, and testing the coil and igniter unit are ALL FREE?

Glades Ghost

The bucking or attempt to stall happens at all throttle positions accelerating or cruising. When the issue occurs at idle it typically stalls the engine. I should have the igniter and coil tested as well as codes pulled after work today. I'll also check the fuel pump for voltage and pressure and inspect the relay.. Thanks for the help I'll keep posting as I learn more.

Glades Ghost

spoke to a pro! He recommended replacing the distributor, which brings new coils.. Since then it's idled for 1/2 an hour and drove 5 miles with no issues, I'll post again in a few days whether it reoccurs or not. thanks for your thoughts everyone.