nighttrain33

I have read many different opinions on this topic, and have searched and talked to many people about this, but I would like to give my specific problem and see what the H-T community thinks would fix my problem (so that I can get rid of my motor soon). I am running low oil pressure on my B16. I have an intake, exhaust, and a skunk2 intake manifold. I was having problems with vtec recently, have changed my oil a few times as well as replaced the vtec screen, but yet the problem persists.

The problems I am having is that basically once I get into vtec (about 6k), the motor kind of surges (vtec goes in and out). Not every time, but a majority of the time. The first thing I did was hook up an oil pressure gauge, and sure enough, the highest it gets is about 60 psi, when the car is warming up. While driving, it will get up to 50 psi, but once it is warmed up, pressure is around 40. I read in my manual that the vtec lobe needs 57 psi to engage.

I have read that dented oil pans can cause low oil pressure, but could it account for the 15-20+ psi I am almost consistently running low? Beyond that, I know that the oil pump could be the problem as well, so that is my first guess.

I was also told that the bearings/journals could be worn as well. This would make sense, but I am not getting any knocking from the motor. The source that I told this to told me that low oil pressure to the bearings/journals would not neccessarily cause the engine to knock, but it would be sudden breakage.

Based on this info, what would be my best bet? Winter is coming soon, so I won't be driving my car, but I intend on fixing this soon. BUT, I would like to get this fixed because I want to sell this motor and do another swap this winter. What do you guys think?

-Shane

nighttrain33

Bump for the afternoon crew. I know Luserkid can help, but anybody else?

-Shane

Luserkid

Your thread wasnt in the first page once i got home right now but since you posted in another thread asking me to look at your problem i searched your name for the thread. Next time do me a favor and just PM me the link so i dont have to search (im lazy after a long day of classes ) (This goes for anyone that wants my help directly, just PM me im always on atleast 5 times a day)

Anyway what is your idle oil pressure. If its lower then 10 then your pump is about to take a complete **** on you. If you plan on driving the car still do this to see if you could help the pump out a little. Drain all your oil and pull your oil pan. Next pull the oil pick up and clean the **** out of that thing. If you have a parts cleaner use it for this. Let it dry fully and air it out just to make sure, then put it back. That will help the oil pump a great deal.

You have a good chance of damaging the bearings, but they will not just crap out on you but they will knock. Once the knocking starts thats it for driving until you mirco the crank and change the bearings. But like i said get me your idle pressure and check the pick up. But 40 crusing is a good sign of your pump going, theres nothing else small that could cause that much of a loss. 5-8 will vary with oil filter, dented oil pan. this is better then those. Any idea on the miles of the pump? Good luck.

SOHC4life 96

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(im lazy after a long day of classes ) </TD></TR></TABLE>

Psh, you're lazy even if you've been sitting on your *** all day.

nighttrain33

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC4life 96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Psh, you're lazy even if you've been sitting on your *** all day. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ROFL

As for Luserkid, sorry for being so lazy on my end. I was in a hurry to get to work. Anyway, The idle oil pressure never goes below 10 psi. Lowest is maybe 13 or so, but around 15 idle is a good overall guess. Other than that, between 38-40 psi is just driving around.

Like I said, the shop that I talked to (I have dealt with them a lot in the past) told me that in this situation, the bearings would just go, no knocking or anything. I don't believe in this theory, but I wanted to check it out.

Other than that, my best guess was the pump, and I am assuming this is your suggestion as well. I found an oil pump at majestic auto for about $90. I also found the pan on there for about $80-85 as well. I figure I can replace them both to be on the safe side, and make sure that the car runs well in the future.

As far as the mileage on the pump, I swapped the motor about 45k ago, and I am sure that the motor had at least the same (so maybe 100k or more on pump). I know that it shouldn't be too bad swapping these parts out, but I don't want to deal with the timing. As long as I line everything up at TDC and label the timing belt, I shouldn't have any problems?

Thanks for reading.

-Shane

Luserkid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC4life 96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Psh, you're lazy even if you've been sitting on your *** all day. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey that takes alot of energy to not do anything all day.

If your going to do this job yourself and the motors seeing 100k i suggest doing a timing belt and water pump since your already there almost. Its a very simple process and what you should do is set everything at TDC then start taking things appart. That way when you put it back youll be in TDC and not some other stroke that could take you out of your way. But yea im thinking the problem being your pump.

nighttrain33

Thanks for the advice. My timing belt was changed in the last 2 years, so that is fine, but I may do the water pump while I'm down there.

Your opinion is though, since the motor is not knocking at all that it wouldn't be the bearings? At this point, I would not like to take those out if at all possible. I would like to get it running so I can sell it before winter.

-Shane

Luserkid

Just because its not knocking yet doesnt mean that the bearings could be getting damaged as you drive. If its going to be a while til you fix the pump drive very careful, dont beat on the motor at all, and just cruse under 4k if you can. That way it will save the life on the bearings or else youll have to change those as well as the pump and itll be a long winter.