40/30 TO 40/40 pro. valve swap with 5 lug
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40/30 TO 40/40 pro. valve swap with 5 lug
i put the 5 lug on my 93 dx coupe last sunday with a lot of help from chris (bakedcookies)
anyway, we didnt have time to swap the master cylinder or proportioning valve. the brakes work amazing already. what is the main reason for switching to the 40/40? I had heard in the past that it is absolutely necessary to do but my cars brakes work fine without. we are going to switch it in hope of more braking power but i was just curious.
anyway, we didnt have time to swap the master cylinder or proportioning valve. the brakes work amazing already. what is the main reason for switching to the 40/40? I had heard in the past that it is absolutely necessary to do but my cars brakes work fine without. we are going to switch it in hope of more braking power but i was just curious.
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Re: 40/30 TO 40/40 pro. valve swap with 5 lug (thrashin)
I believe it regulates the amount of brake fluid going to the front or rear... I still have the 40/30 on my car, because I was dumb and forgot about it.
I think i remember reading something about rear brake lock up, if u dont have the 40/40.... I'm sure someone can help j00 f00!
I think i remember reading something about rear brake lock up, if u dont have the 40/40.... I'm sure someone can help j00 f00!
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Re: 40/30 TO 40/40 pro. valve swap with 5 lug (navin)
The 4040 is the prop valve designed for that system, without it the pressure will be incorrect. I'm not runing the 4040 with my rear disks, and it does work, but, not as well as it could. If you're content where they are then no need to upgrade, but that $60 prop valve make it even better, so why not?
Also, wilwood make adjustable prop valves, you just put it on the line going to the rear, and adjust based on the the front. Thats what I'm going to be doing once I get my line bending and flaring tool. The adjustable's run about $50, but require you to bend new lines.
The issue with the surrent setup is the rears don't lock up soon enough, putting more strain on the fronts.
Also, wilwood make adjustable prop valves, you just put it on the line going to the rear, and adjust based on the the front. Thats what I'm going to be doing once I get my line bending and flaring tool. The adjustable's run about $50, but require you to bend new lines.
The issue with the surrent setup is the rears don't lock up soon enough, putting more strain on the fronts.
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Re: 40/30 TO 40/40 pro. valve swap with 5 lug (jolt-tsp)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jolt-tsp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The 4040 is the prop valve designed for that system, without it the pressure will be incorrect. I'm not runing the 4040 with my rear disks, and it does work, but, not as well as it could. If you're content where they are then no need to upgrade, but that $60 prop valve make it even better, so why not?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you misunderstood what i was saying. I am putting it on this weekend along with an integra RS master cylinder. i was just making sure i wasnt going to have any problems this week before i can get to it.
thanks for the information though
Navin ill see you sunday
I think you misunderstood what i was saying. I am putting it on this weekend along with an integra RS master cylinder. i was just making sure i wasnt going to have any problems this week before i can get to it.
thanks for the information though
Navin ill see you sunday
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