Drum to disc conversion problems
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Yo i am usually on the accord board but i have some questions about a rear drum to disk conversion on a 2001 2dr civic ex. I have a friend here that did so using the SSBC large signle piston kit (11"rotor, single piston, steel brake lines) The conversion was a success but there is no brake power.
The brake pedal if pumped up will stiffen to specs then a moment later hit the pedal again and it goes to the floor. Guessing there is air in the lines, he bleeds the whole system. Pressure bleed all bleeding valves by pumping brakes and holding to floor, then losened each valve to releave pressure and all remove air pockets in master cylinder. Then used a bleeding machine sucking fluid through all the lines. Then gravity bleed each valve on all the calipers about 15 mins each.
In the end pumped the brakes after bout $40 of brake fluid and bleeding. Still no brake pressure. There is some pressure on the new rear brakes because there is visible ware on the new rotors.
So i have some thoughts of what I might have to do to fix this problem but would still like to know if any1 has personal or knowing knowledge on what it might be that is causing the power loose in the braking.
Thought it might be the master cylinder gone bad (but gone bad in just 1hr of time changing drum to disk?), maybe the master cylinder on this vehical is not made to make enough power for 4 disk brakes? Should use SI master cylinder? How about the proportioning valve on this vehical, is it adjustable to put more pressure to the rear? Does it need anything after market?
Please any know how of any kind will be greatly appreciated.
Yo i am usually on the accord board but i have some questions about a rear drum to disk conversion on a 2001 2dr civic ex. I have a friend here that did so using the SSBC large signle piston kit (11"rotor, single piston, steel brake lines) The conversion was a success but there is no brake power.The brake pedal if pumped up will stiffen to specs then a moment later hit the pedal again and it goes to the floor. Guessing there is air in the lines, he bleeds the whole system. Pressure bleed all bleeding valves by pumping brakes and holding to floor, then losened each valve to releave pressure and all remove air pockets in master cylinder. Then used a bleeding machine sucking fluid through all the lines. Then gravity bleed each valve on all the calipers about 15 mins each.
In the end pumped the brakes after bout $40 of brake fluid and bleeding. Still no brake pressure. There is some pressure on the new rear brakes because there is visible ware on the new rotors.
So i have some thoughts of what I might have to do to fix this problem but would still like to know if any1 has personal or knowing knowledge on what it might be that is causing the power loose in the braking.
Thought it might be the master cylinder gone bad (but gone bad in just 1hr of time changing drum to disk?), maybe the master cylinder on this vehical is not made to make enough power for 4 disk brakes? Should use SI master cylinder? How about the proportioning valve on this vehical, is it adjustable to put more pressure to the rear? Does it need anything after market?
Please any know how of any kind will be greatly appreciated.
The proportioning valve is a single non-adjustable reduction, so you won't be able to adjust it. I would agree and say that it sounds like a Master Cylinder issue, and I would try and locate a DC5 (RSX) Master Cylinder, as the bore is slightly larger and more durable. Just as a side note, the Proportioning valve is just for the rear wheels. It doesn't handle the flow for the front wheels.
No leaks. Also I am guessing some10 else. Maybe my stock master cylinder cannt hold up the upgrades on my brake system.
Front 4 piston wilwood 12" kit, and rear SI convertion w/ SSBC upgrade plus steel lines.
Well if not im gonna get me and RSX type S master cylinder cuz i gotta get it back into the garage.
Front 4 piston wilwood 12" kit, and rear SI convertion w/ SSBC upgrade plus steel lines.
Well if not im gonna get me and RSX type S master cylinder cuz i gotta get it back into the garage.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kurvy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No leaks. Also I am guessing some10 else. Maybe my stock master cylinder cannt hold up the upgrades on my brake system.
Front 4 piston wilwood 12" kit, and rear SI convertion w/ SSBC upgrade plus steel lines.
Well if not im gonna get me and RSX type S master cylinder cuz i gotta get it back into the garage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldn't be surprised if there's something wrong with your Master Cylinder.
Front 4 piston wilwood 12" kit, and rear SI convertion w/ SSBC upgrade plus steel lines.
Well if not im gonna get me and RSX type S master cylinder cuz i gotta get it back into the garage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldn't be surprised if there's something wrong with your Master Cylinder.
Ok on my brake problem
2001 Civic 2Dr EX
Review: Front brakes 12" wilwood 4 piston, (problem since this) rear drum to disk converstion using si knuckle and set up, upgraded si set up w/ SSBC 12" single large piston, steal brake lines all around
I just put a new RSX Type S master cylinder and perportioning valve to up the pressure on the brakes because of not able to stop car (pedal goes to the floor, stiff and hard but goes to floor)
Bleedig $70 worth of Honda Dot 3 brake fluid through system in many ways (look in other posts) i would figure it would be fixed
What am i missing?! Plz needing help to get car going!
2001 Civic 2Dr EX
Review: Front brakes 12" wilwood 4 piston, (problem since this) rear drum to disk converstion using si knuckle and set up, upgraded si set up w/ SSBC 12" single large piston, steal brake lines all around
I just put a new RSX Type S master cylinder and perportioning valve to up the pressure on the brakes because of not able to stop car (pedal goes to the floor, stiff and hard but goes to floor)
Bleedig $70 worth of Honda Dot 3 brake fluid through system in many ways (look in other posts) i would figure it would be fixed
What am i missing?! Plz needing help to get car going!
Trending Topics
Is your vacuum line still connected to your manifold? The only way I can see you still not getting pressure, is if you have one of the following:
1. No vacuum.
2. Air in the lines.
3. A leak in the system.
1. No vacuum.
2. Air in the lines.
3. A leak in the system.
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