iwhichisme

I recently did a rear disk conversion on my eg/eh, but get very little pressure when applying brakes. If i pump my brakes they seem to get a little more pressure. But if i let off of them for a sec them apply them again, the pedal goes straight to the floor. The car will eventually slow, but not until pressing the pedal all the way down. By the way i have the gsr brakes on the front as well. They were working fine until i did the rear disk conversion. Ive bled the system twice, but for some reason my RL caliper gives me a hard time when bleeding. When you pump the pedal and release the valve, nothing seems to come out/ or it does so very slowly. I assume i just need to get out there and keep bleeding the system, as i have heard many others had to do this from searching. But if anyone could offer any other advice, it would be much appreciatted.

I am still using the stock MC and prop valve right now, so im not expecting a rock hard pedal, but i do beleive they be should doing way better than they are. Oh, and I have a Dx.

tia,
chaz

SolObsession

I would bleed them first (providing there are no visible leaks causing the problem). Bleeding them should fix it. I just had a similar problem when I replaced a rear caliper on my Sol.

toolowsol

You didn't bleed them properly, attach a clear hose to the Nipples on the bleed screws, put the other end of the tube in a container of FRESH brake fluid. Then open the bleed screw and pump the brakes until no more air is in the lines. Make sure you go in order. The secret is the container of fresh fluid, It lets air out, but wont suck the air back in, just the brake fluid.

Slopoke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toolowsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You didn't bleed them properly, attach a clear hose to the Nipples on the bleed screws, put the other end of the tube in a container of FRESH brake fluid. Then open the bleed screw and pump the brakes until no more air is in the lines. Make sure you go in order. The secret is the container of fresh fluid, It lets air out, but wont suck the air back in, just the brake fluid.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You dont have to use the container (although it is much cleaner).
They will bleed fine if you make sure to close the valve before the pedal reaches the floor.

When you bleed the left rear and nothing is comming out, can you hear air being pushed out?
If so, then just keep bleeding.

If not, I'd pull the caliper off and inspect it. It sounds like you may have some kind of blockage in the line or the caliper itself.

iwhichisme

BTW, does anyone know the correct bleeding sequence for Hondas. Ive heard that it goes (1)RR (2)LF (3)LR (4)RF. Ive also heard (1)RR (2)LR (3)RF (4)LF, which is the one i actually used. Im going to try bleeding them again. The way i know to do it is to have someone pump the brakes, and then hold the pedal down applying pressure, while they are holding it down you release the valve to let out all air and then close it. you do this several times until there is no air. Is this Correct?

Rexxer

if bleeding them doesnt work a leak as stated above is the problem. Usually its the master cylinder or brake booster sounds like a leak to a T, not a bleeding problem could be wrong though.

Edit: im not sure about bleeding procedure but i do lf,rf,lr,rr in that order.works fine.

Steve

built562

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iwhichisme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW, does anyone know the correct bleeding sequence for Hondas. Ive heard that it goes (1)RR (2)LF (3)LR (4)RF. Ive also heard (1)RR (2)LR (3)RF (4)LF, which is the one i actually used. Im going to try bleeding them again. The way i know to do it is to have someone pump the brakes, and then hold the pedal down applying pressure, while they are holding it down you release the valve to let out all air and then close it. you do this several times until there is no air. Is this Correct? </TD></TR></TABLE>

proper order is farthest from MS first. so RR,LR,RF,LF
also you do not need to use the jar and tube method although it is cleaner, what you do is open the valve, have someone push and hold the brake pedal to the floor, the tighten the valve, tell them to release the pedal. that is the most affective way to bleed brakes, do not stop until you see a solid stream of fluid coming out, it may take a while because its a long way to the rear brakes.

Jdm93civic

so have a mushy kinda of pedal feel...you guys are saying that that is caused by having air in the brake lines right? bout how much would it cost to get your brakes bleed cause mine are really soft...sometimes when i brake hard my foot goes lower than the damn gas pedal...

Kusai.Nihonjin.Desu

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jdm93civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so have a mushy kinda of pedal feel...you guys are saying that that is caused by having air in the brake lines right? bout how much would it cost to get your brakes bleed cause mine are really soft...sometimes when i brake hard my foot goes lower than the damn gas pedal...</TD></TR></TABLE>

DIY. $0 dollars. Easier with 2 people. Need a jack and handtools.