When I brought my civic'02 to test a/c system - they said we can't get compressor running. There is no power on a/c compressor.
So I tested my wiring and a/c pressure switch they were fine.
The problem is in clutch relay which is next on right of condenser fan relay in underdash fuse-box. When I put jumper between pin 87 and pin 30, the clutch starts to spin and its blow cold inside cab. But I can't turn off a/c from dashboard control panel (when it's no lightening (green) the clutch continue to spin) while using this jumper on clutch relay.
I tested pin 87 of clutch relay and wire which goes to underdash fuse-box (fuse # 14 is fine) - it's brings to clutch relay 12 volts.
Also I tested the red wire (between) from a/c compressor to the a/c pressure switch it shows continuity. But another wire (blue) that runs from the heater control unit to pressure switch shows no power on it - is it normal?
Sees like pin 86 at clutch relay doesn't work also it doesn't show good resistance to the ground - can't get relay working - HELP!
Any ideas what could be bad?

 

OK! Problem solved!!! Everything was fine in my car (Heater Control panel, ECM/PCM, Fuse-boxes and relays, e.t.c, were checked). Just went bad the "A/C-Compressor Thermal Protector", which is right on top of it. (#5 38908-PLM-A11 PROTECTOR SET, THERMAL $50.27). The RED and BLU/WHT wires run to the Thermal Protector of compressor, and they must show continuity (in my case they didn't). When I jumped them together everything works just perfect (compressor clutch engages when I push A/C-button on Control Panel and disengages when push it again and green light off).
Now I have to configure out how to replace that A/C- Compressor Thermal Protector
if anybody knows how to do it - please post the instruction.
Ivan.

 

If you have really small fingers this might be easy, otherwise remove the ps pump, alternator to get the easiest access to the thermal protector. There is just one 5 mm bolt holding it on, and three wires to plug in, one for the clutch circuit, two for the thermal protector circuit on the condensor fan shroud. If you can raise the front of the car with ramps, or a hoist will be easier on your back. The new thermal protector comes with installation instruction, and be sure to add some new clear silcone to act as an insulator. Looks like a five minute job, will realistically be an hour to hour and a half job.

 

Thanks for explanation of what stuff i need to take off before do this. This is the only way. And one more question what kind of silicone should I use? What about these ones:
1. Permatex-Ultra Copper , maximum temperature RTV silicone gasket maker.
2. Permatex - High-Temp red RTV silicone gasket ?
Are they good for that purpose? I think I need silicone with good temperature induction for more sensitivity of thermal protector ,and good resistance to heat factor and vibration. Thanks, Ivan.

 

Sanden/Honda reccomend ultra clear, although you could likely get away with any of the others. Be sure to disconnect battery as it is live under the case, and can create a ground and sparks fairly easily.

 

I think I can get access to that thermal switch assy without taking off power steering pump and alternator, because of rusty bolt joints. I can use for it long flexible extension for ratchet. Just difficult part it's unplug old clutch wire and connect new one. I will try do this.

 

Ok, I changed it. I was doing it without taking off the power-steering pump and an alternator. I just took off Exhaust cover MANIFOLD. After that, with regular long extension I reached 8mm bolt which is on top of a/c compressor. The old thermal protector was very hard to remove because they used very strong compound on sensor. I pull the wires of senor and broke them, after that I took cordless drill and long drill-bit with diameter of thermal switch and drilled out the old sensor (if someone will repeat it - don't go too deep). As a silicone I used "Permatex-Ultra Copper" (seems to me too soft and not strong enough, I think better to use "Permatex-Gray"). Then I completely bolted it, so it didn't move and let it dry. Most hard part of this process was to connect clutch wire - very uncomfortable (I used a piece of strong still wire- made hook on one end of it for holding the wire-connector from the clutch and with another hand pushed in new connector).
By the way the Part came without any papers or instruction, just sealed bubble pack with serial number on it (good that it came with new bolt), the thermal switch was covered with rubber cap which needs to be removed before installation. This work took me to do about 1.5 hour (I did it first time). Make sure you have all tools you need and a silicone before start to do it.

 

Very BAD suggestions you gives. When I applied "one of these" silicons my a/c compressor was running all the time. So I have redone it, I cleaned all out and this time I applied special heat-sink-silicone-compound (like uses PCU heat-sinks). Only now my compressor starts and shuts automatically. Now I afraid that when I was driving for awhile with it running all time could reduce performance or life-time of a/c compressor.