Coomer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8520 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Up in marysville. I would give you **** about your location not saying belltown, but then again, mine says seattle </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not talking Bellevue. Belltown is in Seattle.

8520

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Coomer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm not talking Bellevue. Belltown is in Seattle. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I always hear people refer to bellvue as belltown. Weird.

B16B_coupe

Bored so i edited a bay pic:

EjSex

^^

burke420

nice^^^... im tucking my fusebox this weekend..wish me luck! and battery might dissappear..

alacard

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fresh’86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is what I did with mine:

-Aircraft stripper (scrub+clean w/ dish soap after this to clean the surface)
-primer (doesn't matter which one it is, self etching primer is the best though imo)
-base coat of whatever colour you are using (I've seen people do non high heat paints in the past, but you should cover it with a high heat clear. If you're going for the flat look, this can be your final step)
-Clearcoat (it is recommended if you intend on having you VC last)
-wetsand (1000grit, then 1500grit and 2000grit. If you want to be more crazy about it, they sell Meguires 2500grit sanding blocks as well) This process will get rid of 'orange peel' and smooth out the paint.
-Compound + Polish (there are many methods on how this can be done, DIY's are posted everywhere including here: https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1 and you can find most other detailing tips after wetsanding on http://www.autopia.org/)

I used the duplicolor high heat paint for all my valve covers, and found it to work the best. Never had an issue with paint fading or chiping from heat, and most of the time the valve cover looked the same as the day I painted it.

Here is another link you can use: https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

Good luck with your project, make sure you post pics once you're done!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey, thanks a lot. this info will definitely come in handy.

acrocat

I'm hoping that someone can help me out. I searched through this thread and the right ups and cant find the part number for this bolt. I tried using the honda-tech search and i searched every keyword on summit but i cant seem to find it. This is the last thing i need for my fuel line setup...

g2_teg_

thats a cap.

980608 is the Earl's Part number. You need to know what size you will need, mine was -8 AN.

search the part number here

http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php

Pandahatch

The size depends on what fuel rail you're using, it's most likely an AN plug sealed with an O-ring.

acrocat

how does -8 compare to 5/8 18 ?

LKSi

iTrader: (2)

check the thread to an conversion on anplumbing.com
http://www.anplumbing.com/thread.html

acrocat

thanks for the help unfortunately my thread size is 5/8 18.. which sucks hahah but i'm gonna head to a machine shop tomorrow... worst case i just have to get a 5/8 to -6 adapater and a -6 union then a -6 plug

g2_teg_

5/8-18 is a weird size.

you could always buy a bolt, cut it down short, and then seal it with thread sealing tape, or thread lock? might look cleaner in the end?

acrocat

Ya Its a old b series fuel rail i have had laying around for years... This is what i got for the one side of the fuel rail

http://store.summitracing.com/...0667B

Too bad them dont make a plug for the other side.

Liloyo

I didnt paint my bay myself, My girls uncle does custom paint. So I had him paint it for me. His website is HOTRODGRAFIXXX.COM. Hes really good and located in Greer, S.C. He pretty much can paint anthing you want. He also did two valve covers for me. One for my EM1 and one for this LS hatch. Let me know if any of you guys are interested and I can get you deals on Valve covers and such. Prolly between 50 to 100 depending on if you just want a solid color or something ghosted in or candy etc. He can do it all. Ill try to get a pic of my valve cover tom to show you guys some of his work. Anywho, just check out his site because he is really good!

Heres a few pics of his work!








And by far my FAVORITE! or







Modified by Liloyo at 12:39 AM 2/2/2008


Modified by Liloyo at 12:44 AM 2/2/2008

egSpoonR

I want my s2k tucked, these bays are incredible...

siblues

iTrader: (1)

On boosted cars with alot of vacuum lines how are you guys hiding them?I dont mean in specific but are you using vacuum manifolds and mounting them low on the firewall?Thanks

acrocat

I'm not running a vacuum manifold.. i just tried to run my lines as cleanly and well hidden as possible.

I would just like to thank the people that helped me out with my question i had... hopefully i'll have my engine bay how i want it this year. So since they dont make the fuel rail cap size i need i decided to go with this setup

5/8 18 to -6 adapter


-6 Flare Cap

blaze the chemi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pandahatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I want to switch all my AN fittings in my bay to black, but I literally have $1000's in fittings alone in my bay, I'm thinking about stripping them and poilishing them or just leaving them alone...tough call...

Oh and for those that don't know, you can strip annodizing off with oven cleaner (the Lye in it is what strips it), it turns black but then cleans up, just don't leave it on too long. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The lye (sodium hydroxide) will strip the anodic coating for sure. Just leave it in for a few minutes with moderate temperature (100 - 120 F). If you leave it in too long it will strip too much aluminum from the part and will be not the right size. To get rid of the blackness (****) dip it in 5 - 10% sulfuric acid with a little peroxide for a few minutes.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pandahatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Powdercoating things that small would be outrageous and would probably do more hram then good to the fittings. Annodizing is pricey as well without bulk orders. I can either buy all new black fittings (yea right!), strip mine to silver and polish them, ore just leave them alone, I think I'm just going to do that last...</TD></TR></TABLE>
powder coating will not work as it adds too much thickness to the parts. The anodic coating is less than 0.4 mils (&lt; 0.0004"). If you want we can work something out and I can anodize those black for you. I'm a R&D chemist for a metal finishing company

stratedrm

watchin this

g2_teg_

Andrew Marquis

^ Ninja

IMO, it looks good but would look a lot better if the shock and UCA nuts were gold/colored.

g2_teg_

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrew Marquis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^ Ninja

IMO, it looks good but would look a lot better if the shock and UCA nuts were gold/colored.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, i have the shock nuts in gold. I'm waiting to get my new shocks before i bother with them. But i dont know where to get the Upper Control Arm nuts in gold? I'm not sure what im gonna do about that...

dustinz_em1

Hey were are you guys buying like these purple washers.

I was looking on the page 1 and fastener-express.com had them and didnt realize how small they were until i got them haha.... the purple countersunk washers on the fenders/bumper ect

g2_teg_

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dustinz_em1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey were are you guys buying like these purple washers.

I was looking on the page 1 and fastener-express.com had them and didnt realize how small they were until i got them haha.... the purple countersunk washers on the fenders/bumper ect
</TD></TR></TABLE>

refer to the first page, first three posts.